I recall Colin working on it, and there's another effort illustrated in this thread:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ing-broke.html

 

What a great thread Greg! What a score! You look mahvelous too!

I cannot see those golden transmissions diminishing in value given the passion of people in the 928 community combined with diminishing parts support from the factory .

 

I'll be happy to brainstorm materials with you if you tackle that. Along with geometry with nice radii etc, there are ways of keeping fatique from being a problem.

 

Just use your skills and have your customers pay you for your time as a consultant and tell the no-skills monkeys what to do. People want to do this stuff themselves but never do - so people like "emachineshop.com" thrive while you close up.

California will simply force more and more people into the "cottage" industry - a normal job maybe mixed with someone with stuff in their garage at home to do what they love.

 

Given how much a used 5 speed box goes with LSD option, that's a bargain price...

I thought Colin was making the springs?

 

Last I checked, Colin was welding the two pieces together.

My "mentors" told me that if I ever welded on a piece of spring steel, that it would be brittle right at the edge of the weld, and that I would go to hell.

I can't take the chance. When those springs break, it is very common for them to run through one or more gears. If that happens in a customer's gearbox, I'd have to buy the new gears. Besides that, I don't need any more reasons to go to hell.

Too expensive for me to gamble with.

 

What a great resource we have here. Three of the brightest and best that I know....all willing to put their heads together and figure out how to make a few springs for all of us!

Many personal thanks to Ed, Mike, and Steve!

You guys are great!

 

Here's the last version of the transmissions that I have:

960 300 014 12. These fit '87 to '88 models and are USA/Japan versions. (A28/12/12)

They are completely new transmissions, with limited slips.



They are complete with new torque convertors, new front bell housing, new differentials and covers, new oil pans and oil fill, and with new speedo sensors. Note that there are no new looms, with these transmissions and you must re-use your existing looms.



All have individual serial numbers, as issued by Porsche.



The outside of the boxes is very interesting, as there are many clues to the "history" of these transmissions.



One of my friends sent me a PM asking about what I thought about the condition of the oil seals and the the gaskets used on these transmissions. I'm not very concerned about the rubber seals and O-rings, as the condition of any of the rubber parts, on the outside (wiring loom grommets on the "early" versions, modulator caps) are like the day they were made. However, on the one 5 speed that I installed, I did remove both the top cover and the rear differential cover to inspect and these "paper" gaskets appeared to be saturated with gear oil, so I replaced them. (Keep in mind that these transmissions are complete, read for installation and have had gear oil in them, for 25 years, so it is reasonable that the paper gaskets might be saturated.) I intend to do this, for these transmissions and the earlier versions that I first posted about. I'll go back and edit that first post of this thread to "remove" the "as is" and describe what I'm going to do.

I'm also going to remove the front convertor housing and the torque convertor and remove the front pumps, at least until I've seen several and can determine the condition of the convertor seal and the front pump seals. I do not want anyone to have problems with one of these transmissions leaking and have to re-remove them, from their chassis. I'd rather spend a few hours and a few bucks on gaskets and seals than to have any problems. Additionally, I would think that these transmissions (assembled in 1987) would have the "early" version of the B2 pistons, which are known to break. I will install a new, updated B2 piston. Additionally, I doubt that these transmissions have the "latest" versions of springs in the K1 position in the valve body, which I will also install.

Checking and performing these changes should ensure that everyone gets as perfect a transmission as possible.

These transmissions will cost $4450, with a "core" exchange of an identical rebuildable transmission. If you don't have a limited slip core, the cost will be $4950, with the return of your core.

There are extremely limited quantities of this transmission. PM or send inquiries/questions to GregBBRD@aol.com.

 

FWIW, for those not familiar with the ATK pages in PET (I wasn't until Greg got these and pointed them out), here are the three pages of 928 Automatic transmissions that crossreference the transmission type (A28.XX) with the exchange part #


So (fer instance...) 960 300 014 MX is an 87-88 A28.12 with LSD.

 

Shucks..Id buy a 960 300 004 16 right now.

 

Or a brand new 960 300 014 12 and install the ring and pinion from the '89 and have a virtually new 960 300 004 16...except for the actual ring and pinion?

I suggested this to Bill Ball, too. (Actually to George to tell Bill.)

I'd install and set-up the ring and pinion, as part of the deal.

You have to provide the ring and pinion.

Pretty darn good deal.

 

Yes, but if you saw the size of the check I wrote to get these, you'd understand why I'm selling them at affordable prices.

 

DROOL................................................................... ....................DAMMIT

if anyone has ANY doubt about the 928 automatic.....I raced well worn 1984 automatic that had 143k on it when the odometer BROKE for over 70 hours on track with ZERO issues.....then I upgraded to an S4 style 4 speed with LSD......it made about 20 hours on track when I sold the car...also with ZERO issues.....the only difference I noticed is the fresh S4 trans did run about 20F cooler than the well worn 84 (which I still have BTW)

 

PM me this option price, please. I have that R&P for you to use...and a good working used .16 tranny to leave ya.

I'll have an answer by end of day tomorrow.

 

Maybe save one to experiment on using beefier parts in the auto. Or a manual to get the "real" dimensions of parts for reproductions