GUTTER-BOY

Hi,

Here's the list Roger sent. He seem like a good guy and responded to my e-mail very quickly. I'll buy the PKensioner w/air pump, unless you guys think it's not necessary (if it helps me to pass emissions, it's worth the few extra bucks) . Do I really need the 2 cam gears for $800 (part # 928 105 530 04), oil pump gear for $75 (part #928 107 107 13 - that price is reasonable and no big deal), flywheel lock tool for $53 and the crank gear for $153.97? If need be, I'll buy everything on the list, but the $800 for the 2 gears seems like a lot... especially if I don't need them yet with only 48k on the motor. I'll pick up everything you guys have recommended before (degreaser, anti-seize, etc.). Fortunately, I have about 4 parts stores w/i 10 minutes of my house. I'm also going to purchase the fuel hose kit (about $100), oil filter, and plugs (any recommendation of what brand/type?). Anything else I should get while I'm burning up my credit card?

Thanks!
List From Roger @ 928sRus:

Timing Belt & Water Pump Parts & Prices 85 to 86
With PKensioner
Updated 8/22/2012
Description Part Number 928sRus Qty Total
Selling Price

PKensioner - no air pump na $149.00 1 $149.00
PKensioner - with air pump na $189.00 1 $189.00
PorKen Tensioner Parts
Tensioner na $87.95 1 $87.95
Lever na $30.38 1 $30.38
Pulley - Ruville or Ina na $60.22 1 $60.22
Tensioner Gasket 928 105 611 05 $8.95 1 $8.95

Water Pump Laso New w/gasket - Plastic Impeller 928 106 015 20 $399.00 1 $399.00
Water Pump Bolt Kit 5x20mm & 9x25mm na $14.50 1 $14.50
Cam Gear 85-95 928 105 530 04 $400.00 2 $800.00
Oil Pump Gear 83 to 95 928 107 107 13 $75.00 1 $75.00
Timing Belt 83 to 95 - Gates 928 105 157 50 $32.50 1 $32.50
Flywheel Lock Tool 83 to 95 000 721 916 11 $53.00 1 $53.00

Other Items you may Require
Crank Gear 83 to 95 928 105 125 12 $158.97 1 $158.97
Front Crank Seal 999 113 263 40 $12.50 1 $12.50
Cam Shaft Seal - Driven - 77 to 95 999 113 282 40 $5.75 2 $11.50
Oil Pump Front Seal 999 113 275 40 $10.50 1 $10.50
Oil Pump O Ring 999 701 633 40 $3.00 1 $3.00
O Ring for Oil Pump Bolts 999 701 006 40 $1.00 3 $3.00
Washer for retaining O Ring for Oil Pump Bolts 928 107 165 00 $2.65 3 $7.95

James Bailey

Pull off the t-belt covers and LOOK !! The ONLY way to know how the gears are is LOOK ! Also helps if you post the year of your car although I can assume it is 85-86 by the parts list !

Landseer

Show a picture of the cam gears and crank gear and we can advise.

Last two cars I reworked at 70K miles needed crank gear and oil pump gears, but not cam gears just then (though beginning to wear).

Now at 90 and 110K miles respectively the cam gears I probably need now will apparently cost as much as either one of the cars did. But if the car needs this, it needs it. Likely no alternatives exist.

I think you may want also to add the circlips and bearings for the lower guide, below the crank gear. Some folks omit it, I don't.

Now is the best time to replace upper and lower rad hoses, critical seal behind the thermostat, the thermostat itself and o ring, Temp II sensor on the water bridge, the distrib caps and rotor caps, as well as rebuild the oil pump ($15 or so kit), the oil pump reservoir and return line, and all the drive belts.

GUTTER-BOY

Hi James,

Oopps, I knew I forgot something in my post! It's an 86 with a VIN under 1000. I just bought it, so I didn't know how to visually inspect the gears. I'll do a search on the forum to see if there is a guide to show me how to do it. Should I think about replacing the power steering/alternator/ac belts even though they look ok? Being new to the 928, I'm sure that there are things that should be changed due to time, not just mileage. This forum is helping me learn the ins and outs of Porsche ownership, but all it takes is missing one critical item, and I'll end up with a good looking lawn ornament!

Landseer

Just post the pictures.

GUTTER-BOY

I'll pull the cover and take some pics in the morning.

GlenL

If you have the time, take it apart and then replace the parts that need to be replaced. That'd be things that break, gears that are worn and bearings that don't turn well.

Shot-gunning in an all-new belt drive system is how the cost gets crazy.

mickster

Is the Bowden to the transmission cable missing? That engine needs a top-end refresh as well. Those fuel lines look original or old replacements. Put that as a top priority along with Timing Belt and Water Pump.

James Bailey

The accessory belts are pretty inexpensive so when you have then off it makes sense to just change them. That way you KNOW they are good to go ! At this age you should change ALL the coolant hoses ALL of them including heater hoses . Also do the fuel lines. Pretty much anything rubber is way beyond it's usefull life.

928 at last

Yes, true, but then you don't worry about things for a loooong time.

Imo000

Real transmissions don't need bowden cables.

928 at last

Imre, if you're around tomorrow, I'll be out your way.....

dr bob

Echo Jim's recommendation on All the belts and All the coolant hoses. A friend drove over from Phoenix a few weeks ago, recent TB/WP, all the coolant hoses save one that his repair guy needed to order. Guess which hose failed on the way home (in 100º+ heat...). Another lister was driving from his summer home in the great northern territories to his home a couple hours north of here. Stranded for a day when a belt strayed from its pulleys, eating some wiring in the process.

The coolant hose list includes the hose from block to heater valve, one from heater valve to heater core, another from heater core to steel pipe on the pass fenderwall, one from that steel pipe to the water bridge, and one from the coolant reservoir to the steel pipe. Two large hoses to the radiator, plus two smaller vent hoses from radiator and water bridge towards the reservoir. Plus a short section between the pressure switch and the reservoir. Look at the reservoir itself and decide how long it's going to last. A new pressure cap is cheap, and also a new drain plug for the radiator. You'll want the two seals for the block drains too.

Imo000

I'll be in the garage working on the.........uhmmm 996 engine.

Landseer

You might want to remove the cross brace first when pulling covers. Those plastic are duct tubes are NLA, worth 100 each on used market and yours are perfect. That's they way to keep them intact. Just don't jack the car or take it off jackstands with the cross brace removed.

Looks like the various parts are all still there on the engine, that's a good sign. Its just dusty/dirty and the outer organ pipe headers suffered from an Earl Scheib red paint job. It'll all clean up great with time.


Prices on all this stuff seems to have risen 30% or more since I last refreshed one two years ago.
Not sure I understand why with exchange rate moving so sharply in favor of USD during last year.

The real outlandish items from a price perspective are those new/replacement cam gears.

I may need to find another hobby.