TB/WP parts and recommendations...
08-25-2012, 05:22 AM
#16
For the Water Pump, 928 106 015 20 is for the 87+
You want 928 106 015 22, for the 85-86 MYs.
The intake tubes are perfect on yours. Very nice. My driver side one is perfect, my passenger side has a cracked gaping hole in it. I managed to locate a pair of 85-86 off a lister here, and the passenger side was in great shape for replacement. Now both sides are awesome. Maybe just a coat of color black to make them neat. Other than that, no more duct tape for me
You want 928 106 015 22, for the 85-86 MYs.
The intake tubes are perfect on yours. Very nice. My driver side one is perfect, my passenger side has a cracked gaping hole in it. I managed to locate a pair of 85-86 off a lister here, and the passenger side was in great shape for replacement. Now both sides are awesome. Maybe just a coat of color black to make them neat. Other than that, no more duct tape for me
08-25-2012, 10:21 AM
#17
For the Water Pump, 928 106 015 20 is for the 87+
You want 928 106 015 22, for the 85-86 MYs.
The intake tubes are perfect on yours. Very nice. My driver side one is perfect, my passenger side has a cracked gaping hole in it. I managed to locate a pair of 85-86 off a lister here, and the passenger side was in great shape for replacement. Now both sides are awesome. Maybe just a coat of color black to make them neat. Other than that, no more duct tape for me
You want 928 106 015 22, for the 85-86 MYs.
The intake tubes are perfect on yours. Very nice. My driver side one is perfect, my passenger side has a cracked gaping hole in it. I managed to locate a pair of 85-86 off a lister here, and the passenger side was in great shape for replacement. Now both sides are awesome. Maybe just a coat of color black to make them neat. Other than that, no more duct tape for me
08-25-2012, 11:32 AM
#18
Shameful Thread Killer
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I'm on the fence on the cam gears and here's why. It's a 25 YO car. In that time, the odometer gears on these cars have been known to fail, so I have some suspicions about your actual mileage. Next, the cam gears of various years were made of metal, or coated with material that is not too robust. It could be that you don't need cam gears, but the only way to tell is with an inspection. To be completely safe, the best bet is to replace everything that touches the cam belt on it's journey around and around the various sprockets and rollers. However, you can avoid the cam gears if on inspection they show as modest wear.
A fairly good test that is easy and cheap is to remove the belt, then set a narrow metal straight edge(like a ruler) on the tooth of the gear. Now, look in the middle of the tooth for light coming through the gap between the straight edge and the ruler. You may need to use a flashlight from the other side you are viewing to see a sliver of light under there. It will be pretty apparent if there is wear that is beyond serviceability.
A fairly good test that is easy and cheap is to remove the belt, then set a narrow metal straight edge(like a ruler) on the tooth of the gear. Now, look in the middle of the tooth for light coming through the gap between the straight edge and the ruler. You may need to use a flashlight from the other side you are viewing to see a sliver of light under there. It will be pretty apparent if there is wear that is beyond serviceability.
08-25-2012, 12:12 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
I think we are going to look at the gears before ordering because of Porsche's crazy price on gears. If the car only has 48k, which may be realistic given the interior of this car, then he should have a lot of life left in them, unless they were abused with a tight belt.
How often are crank gears replaced? Mine has 80k on it and shows almost no signs of wear.
The other one that I'm not sure about are crank and oil pump seals. Should these be replaced now or only if there is a leak? I have never replaced mine and have no issues.
I have also told Steve to have plenty of degreaser on hand. Hopefully he doesn't have dead mice and as much corrosion as I had under my timing covers.
Matt
How often are crank gears replaced? Mine has 80k on it and shows almost no signs of wear.
The other one that I'm not sure about are crank and oil pump seals. Should these be replaced now or only if there is a leak? I have never replaced mine and have no issues.
I have also told Steve to have plenty of degreaser on hand. Hopefully he doesn't have dead mice and as much corrosion as I had under my timing covers.
Matt
08-25-2012, 12:15 PM
#20
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I think that's wise, and why I also offered an inspection method in the next para. Maybe it does only have 48k on it. Maybe the interior has been replaced at some point. Inspection of the gears will tell the tale which is what everyone on this thread has advised.
08-25-2012, 12:27 PM
#22
08-25-2012, 12:51 PM
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Advice... and don't forget; TB/WP Party w/ prizes 09/08 in Parker, Co.
Thanks again for all of the guidance and feedback. I'm about 99.9% sure the car has an original 48k miles. All of the documentation shows it (CarFax, DMV records, maintenance records, etc.) and the condition of the car all point to legit mileage. I'd rather avoid a hit for $800 for those 2 gears (at least this TB/WP service go around), since I still need to sort out some other issues to get it were I'm comfortable driving it any distance. But if I really need them to make the car stay alive, I'll do it.
The right front wheel area has a slight shake. When I get the new back tires put on I'll have them rebalance the front tires, too, just to see if the problem might be coming from a missing wheel weight or a bent rim where I can't see it. The clutch also "rattles" upon release in 1st gear, but other than that it seems to shift fine. Then theres some minor, but annoying, fluid leaks. That $800 not spent on those gears will still go into the car, just hopefully not for the TB/WP repair this time.
Next time the belt has to be done, I should have everything else sorted out and will do the gears just to be safe. At least I'll know for next time what I'll need so I can buy the parts over time so that my Off-Duty Supervisor (AKA: Wife) won't kill me!
-Steve
The right front wheel area has a slight shake. When I get the new back tires put on I'll have them rebalance the front tires, too, just to see if the problem might be coming from a missing wheel weight or a bent rim where I can't see it. The clutch also "rattles" upon release in 1st gear, but other than that it seems to shift fine. Then theres some minor, but annoying, fluid leaks. That $800 not spent on those gears will still go into the car, just hopefully not for the TB/WP repair this time.
Next time the belt has to be done, I should have everything else sorted out and will do the gears just to be safe. At least I'll know for next time what I'll need so I can buy the parts over time so that my Off-Duty Supervisor (AKA: Wife) won't kill me!
-Steve
08-25-2012, 12:53 PM
#24
Thanks again for all of the guidance and feedback. I'm about 99.9% sure the car has an original 48k miles. All of the documentation shows it (CarFax, DMV records, maintenance records, etc.) and the condition of the car all point to legit mileage. I'd rather avoid a hit for $800 for those 2 gears (at least this TB/WP service go around), since I still need to sort out some other issues to get it were I'm comfortable driving it any distance. But if I really need them to make the car stay alive, I'll do it.
The right front wheel area has a slight shake. When I get the new back tires put on I'll have them rebalance the front tires, too, just to see if the problem might be coming from a missing wheel weight or a bent rim where I can't see it. The clutch also "rattles" upon release in 1st gear, but other than that it seems to shift fine. Then theres some minor, but annoying, fluid leaks. That $800 not spent on those gears will still go into the car, just hopefully not for the TB/WP repair this time.
Next time the belt has to be done, I should have everything else sorted out and will do the gears just to be safe. At least I'll know for next time what I'll need so I can buy the parts over time so that my Off-Duty Supervisor (AKA: Wife) won't kill me!
-Steve
The right front wheel area has a slight shake. When I get the new back tires put on I'll have them rebalance the front tires, too, just to see if the problem might be coming from a missing wheel weight or a bent rim where I can't see it. The clutch also "rattles" upon release in 1st gear, but other than that it seems to shift fine. Then theres some minor, but annoying, fluid leaks. That $800 not spent on those gears will still go into the car, just hopefully not for the TB/WP repair this time.
Next time the belt has to be done, I should have everything else sorted out and will do the gears just to be safe. At least I'll know for next time what I'll need so I can buy the parts over time so that my Off-Duty Supervisor (AKA: Wife) won't kill me!
-Steve
08-25-2012, 01:27 PM
#25
Inventor
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Regarding the cooling system, at least replace the special, formed, 'short' hose (928 574 567 03), and heater valve (928 574 573 03). Every S3 I've had, I have blown up one or both on a WOT blast. (I've not had a problem with any of the other hoses.)
Replace the coolant pressure switch, near the overflow tank, with a 5/16" brass coupler, factory piece (999 230 106 02), or completely new long hose. The switch doesn't really do anything worthy, it invariably leaks/splits, and is expensive.
Replace the coolant pressure switch, near the overflow tank, with a 5/16" brass coupler, factory piece (999 230 106 02), or completely new long hose. The switch doesn't really do anything worthy, it invariably leaks/splits, and is expensive.
