Euro 79 16v manual;
Just done a refresh of most everything, new pipes, gaskets, ignition bits and so on. Part of the job was replacing the cam tower gaskets.

The crank was locked at TDC and stayed there until I put everything back on, the notches on the cam gears lined up perfect on the left (cyl 1-4) but is about half a tooth retarded on the right (cyl 5-8) to line up the belt pitch.
I fitted a new cap and HT leads, and connected them up going by the numbers on the cap to the cylinders.
It starts but doesn't run for very long, it sounds like the timing is out because I get pops and wheezes, but it might just be spark at the wrong time or bad fuel as it hasn't run for a year.
I'm not sure how I could get the cam timing wrong?

If one were re-building an engine how would you make sure the crank to cam timing was correct when you put the belt on? Could you get the crank 1 rotation out (as it turns twice to one rotation of the cam doesn't it?)

I will double check the HT leads tomorrow, perhaps I have them wrong but I was careful.

It did start to run a bit longer as initially the engine would die almost as soon as I started it, and when it kept running for about 5-10 seconds but sounding rough I shut it down.

Ideas?

 

the cams always want to "pop" out of position when i do it. tension the belt from the crank, to the OP to the driver cam, then make sure there is NO SLACK, then route the rest. use clips to hold the belt to the driver cam.

 

Absolutely, that is what I did. Held the cam in place with a 17mm spanner to put the belt on in an anti clock direction as you stand in front of the engine and clamped the belt to the cam gears as I went.

I am thinking as it got slightly better then perhaps it is just bad fuel? It has been in there for a year..

 

i double checked the timing on this hybrid build, turns out it was 3 teeth off! no idea how it did that. so re do i go. how do the plugs look?

 

Brand new plugs so may also pull them tomorrow to see how they look.

 

Did you remove the distributor?

I'm wagering it's spark timing and not cam timing.

 

Distributor rotor is pointing at cyl 1 mark on case when at TDC so it should run well enough shouldn't it?

 

And cams are on their marks? If so it should.

 

No idea what I did, but checking the timing again found I had both cams way off, I felt sure I had them all lined up when I put the belt on. It is my first time doing a belt so I took my time and double checked everything as I went.

I just released the belt tension and lined it all up again and now it runs ok, but lumpy from cold, probably WUR needs looking at. I waited for it to warm up and then raised the revs to about 3K and it has a slight miss so will need to get a timing light and set the distributor I think.

Still have an oil leak coming down onto the alternator (annoying because this was one reason to do all this work) so need to find that.

I put in new clutch linings, but can't get into any gears now. I have been told to look in the WSM manual on how to set the intermediate plate but I can't see it, is there a guide on here that someone can point me to? It's a 79 by the way with twin plate and no pins because it's CIS
I will also check the pedal play to make sure I have that 1 turn preload.

 

thats what happened to me! magic skipping teeth! glad you found that.

 

I marked the outer edge of the gear wheel in line with the notch this time so I could see straight away if anything had moved.

 

Congrats on getting it going.

Setting the intermediate plate is discussed in this forum at length. Look out! it's tricky and leads to long discussions of what worked for each individual. I'm a "crank it back" guy and suggest using a screwdriver to pull the "T" adjusters fully to the rear. "Works for me" but others haven't been so lucky.

 

The pertinent page was pointed out to me 30-6a in the WSM and I am not sure I understand it, however I got a big screw driver up in there and levered against the starter ring and bit that looks like its on a long flat spring and got the gap required under the 'fork'.
I can get gears now, but not sure which ones or if all of them until I get it back on the road. I fitted a short shifter while the TT was off so I am guessing that makes the gears much closer together in terms of movement in the stick I mean. No crunching either so I reckon the clutch is ok now.

Just need to find the oil leak, please don't let it be the cam gasket I just installed!

It had a couple of pretty noisy tappets too, but after a few warm up cycles they have quietened down and I can't hear them any more.

 

Like the NSA I figure more info is better than less, so here's a dump of all the clutch threads I've noted over the years. (Get it? A clutch dump ;-) I hope something will help.


https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...d-bubbles.html
Bleeding clutch and bubbles from Wally

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-properly.html
Please help me get this clutch working properly!!

Originally Posted by SharkSkin
I have some info on the clutch here that may help you understand the mechanism and how to adjust it.
http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...oryOfOperation

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-way-out.html
Help. I think my transmission is on it's way out.
It's started about 3 months ago. It grinds a little almost evertime I shift into 2nd unless I'm real careful. Also if I don't shift into neutral I can't get it out of gear once the car stops at a light and don't want to force it so I have to clutch start in 3rd and 4th sometimes.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ch-owners.html
Something useful for duel-disc clutch owners. PIX

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ment-pics.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post9032935

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...c-problem.html
Clutch Hydraulic Problem

BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...djustment.html
I have MASTERED the twin-disc adjustment!

 

Thanks, lots of reading there!