Bleeding clutch and bubbles
02-20-2012, 09:48 AM
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Bleeding clutch and bubbles
Hi all !
Time ago i changed the secondary slave cylinder clutch on my car.
I was waiting for a Pneumatic Brake Bleeder from Sealey.co.uk model VS020.V2 to do it.
Today it's arrived. I have connect it to the bleeding screw on the secondary slave cylinder and activate the simply procedure, but i have some problem ; i use all correct procedure how wrote on the enclosed paper, but when bleeding i always see bubbles on the hose between the bleeder and the secondary cilinder, their never stop. Now the pedal it's quite strong than before but for only half course of it.
I don't have any leak on the circuit. I tryed several times the procedure but i can't stop the bubbles go out from the circuit.
When bleeding i am quite careful to mantain always full the reservoir tank.
Can you suggest how to do it?? Regards all !
Time ago i changed the secondary slave cylinder clutch on my car.
I was waiting for a Pneumatic Brake Bleeder from Sealey.co.uk model VS020.V2 to do it.
Today it's arrived. I have connect it to the bleeding screw on the secondary slave cylinder and activate the simply procedure, but i have some problem ; i use all correct procedure how wrote on the enclosed paper, but when bleeding i always see bubbles on the hose between the bleeder and the secondary cilinder, their never stop. Now the pedal it's quite strong than before but for only half course of it.
I don't have any leak on the circuit. I tryed several times the procedure but i can't stop the bubbles go out from the circuit.
When bleeding i am quite careful to mantain always full the reservoir tank.
Can you suggest how to do it?? Regards all !
02-20-2012, 10:45 AM
#2
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The bubbles are probably caused by air being sucked in thru the loose bleeder screw threads, or by a loose fit of the bleeder hose on the bleeder screw. If you had that much air in the clutch hydraulics, it would not work at all.
There are a couple of unusual ways to remove air from the clutch system.
- Get a piece of good rubber or plastic hose that is a snug fit on the bleeder screws, and is long enough to reach from the clutch slave bleeder screw to a brake bleeder screw on the right front wheel. Loosen both bleeder screws until they are almost out and apply thick grease to the threads, then screw them back hand tight. Fit the hose to the bleeder screws and loosen them three or four turns. Gently and slowly push the brake pedal to the floor about fifteen times. Tighten the bleed screws and try the brake pedal - it MUST stop near the top and be very firm. Try the clutch pedal and see if operation has improved.
- The final option for bleeding the clutch is the Kempf method. From under the dash, you must remove the clutch master cylinder snap ring, then very carefully pull the piston out until you can just tip the seal enough to let the air escape at the top. You must get the seal back in place without getting more air into the cylinder bore. You do not remove the piston and seal - you just pull it out enough to make a very thin opening at the top of the seal to let the air out.
There are a couple of unusual ways to remove air from the clutch system.
- Get a piece of good rubber or plastic hose that is a snug fit on the bleeder screws, and is long enough to reach from the clutch slave bleeder screw to a brake bleeder screw on the right front wheel. Loosen both bleeder screws until they are almost out and apply thick grease to the threads, then screw them back hand tight. Fit the hose to the bleeder screws and loosen them three or four turns. Gently and slowly push the brake pedal to the floor about fifteen times. Tighten the bleed screws and try the brake pedal - it MUST stop near the top and be very firm. Try the clutch pedal and see if operation has improved.
- The final option for bleeding the clutch is the Kempf method. From under the dash, you must remove the clutch master cylinder snap ring, then very carefully pull the piston out until you can just tip the seal enough to let the air escape at the top. You must get the seal back in place without getting more air into the cylinder bore. You do not remove the piston and seal - you just pull it out enough to make a very thin opening at the top of the seal to let the air out.
02-20-2012, 01:19 PM
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Hi Wally and many thanks for reply!
Now i taked more care to fit the rubber pipe of the Pneumatic Brake Bleeder from Sealey.co.uk model VS020.V2. I have put grease on the bleeding nipple and bleeded the circuit looking fine the oil flushing on the clear hose of the bleeder.
Now no more bubbles! ....but the clutch pedal still have half course. :-(
I have repeat many times the bleed, and no more bubbles on the hose but the pedal
wan't go all up.
It is functionally on 50%, rest of the course must be pulled up with the foot.
I don't know what do to more than this....
You suggest to place an hose between the slave bleeder and the right caliper (i just have see
this procedure on forum) but i'm afraid to do this... i don't want to handle also the brake circuit to prevent any damage.
This is the reason i buyed this Pneumatic Brake Bleeder.
I prefer to use it, avoiding to touch other car components....
It must work !!
I see also the Kempf method but i see it's too hard for me.
I also tryed to do the old method : one person inside the car that push the pedal, i open and close the bleed nipple. I repeated this several times but no effect : no bubbles flush in the hose, but the padl still on half course !
Perhaps you think there is another problem, or it's only to bleed carefully? (what i must i do more than this??)
So complicated this car ! :-))
Hope to solve this problem... i have the car in garage and without clutch it's hard to go out. ;-)
Francesco
Now i taked more care to fit the rubber pipe of the Pneumatic Brake Bleeder from Sealey.co.uk model VS020.V2. I have put grease on the bleeding nipple and bleeded the circuit looking fine the oil flushing on the clear hose of the bleeder.
Now no more bubbles! ....but the clutch pedal still have half course. :-(
I have repeat many times the bleed, and no more bubbles on the hose but the pedal
wan't go all up.
It is functionally on 50%, rest of the course must be pulled up with the foot.
I don't know what do to more than this....
You suggest to place an hose between the slave bleeder and the right caliper (i just have see
this procedure on forum) but i'm afraid to do this... i don't want to handle also the brake circuit to prevent any damage.
This is the reason i buyed this Pneumatic Brake Bleeder.
I prefer to use it, avoiding to touch other car components....
It must work !!
I see also the Kempf method but i see it's too hard for me.
I also tryed to do the old method : one person inside the car that push the pedal, i open and close the bleed nipple. I repeated this several times but no effect : no bubbles flush in the hose, but the padl still on half course !
Perhaps you think there is another problem, or it's only to bleed carefully? (what i must i do more than this??)
So complicated this car ! :-))
Hope to solve this problem... i have the car in garage and without clutch it's hard to go out. ;-)
Francesco
02-20-2012, 01:51 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
I had difficulty getitng mine bled, called Sean, solution provided..
Under the car with the slave unbolted and cap off reservoir, pump in and out the slave cylinder 15-30+ times.. Solved for me 100%
Under the car with the slave unbolted and cap off reservoir, pump in and out the slave cylinder 15-30+ times.. Solved for me 100%
02-20-2012, 02:08 PM
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Hi finally! ,
thanks fro reply !
Do you mean :
1) take off (unbolt) the slave cylinder from the housing keeping the oil hose plugged
2) take the steel stick of the slave cylinder by hand moving it in and out?
* the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder must be opened or closed ?
Francesco
thanks fro reply !
Do you mean :
1) take off (unbolt) the slave cylinder from the housing keeping the oil hose plugged
2) take the steel stick of the slave cylinder by hand moving it in and out?
* the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder must be opened or closed ?
Francesco
02-20-2012, 02:42 PM
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- Get a piece of good rubber or plastic hose that is a snug fit on the bleeder screws, and is long enough to reach from the clutch slave bleeder screw to a brake bleeder screw on the right front wheel. Loosen both bleeder screws until they are almost out and apply thick grease to the threads, then screw them back hand tight. Fit the hose to the bleeder screws and loosen them three or four turns. Gently and slowly push the brake pedal to the floor about fifteen times. Tighten the bleed screws and try the brake pedal - it MUST stop near the top and be very firm. Try the clutch pedal and see if operation has improved.
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02-20-2012, 04:18 PM
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Hi finally! ,
thanks fro reply !
Do you mean :
1) take off (unbolt) the slave cylinder from the housing keeping the oil hose plugged
2) take the steel stick of the slave cylinder by hand moving it in and out?
* the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder must be opened or closed ?
Francesco
thanks fro reply !
Do you mean :
1) take off (unbolt) the slave cylinder from the housing keeping the oil hose plugged
2) take the steel stick of the slave cylinder by hand moving it in and out?
* the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder must be opened or closed ?
Francesco
And clutch pedal must be up all the way.
02-20-2012, 04:41 PM
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"Is the grease simple to keep them air tight?"
Yes.
"I had difficulty getitng mine bled, called Sean, solution provided..
Under the car with the slave unbolted and cap off reservoir, pump in and out the slave cylinder 15-30+ times.. Solved for me 100%"
Thanks - I just forgot that method -it often solves the problem.
Yes.
"I had difficulty getitng mine bled, called Sean, solution provided..
Under the car with the slave unbolted and cap off reservoir, pump in and out the slave cylinder 15-30+ times.. Solved for me 100%"
Thanks - I just forgot that method -it often solves the problem.
02-21-2012, 06:01 AM
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Solved !
Many thanks to all !
I solved like 'finally!' suggest, very very easy ;
1) I have unbolted the secondary clutch slave cylinder from his housing
2) Leaving connected the oil hose, and closed the bleed nipple, i have pushed in and out the steel stick of the cylinder several time until i no more hear the bubbles 'sound' inside the cylinder
3) Rebolt the cylinder
Well done. The pedal it's perfect.
Remember !
> before to do this procedure, i have bleeded the circuit
from the bleeding nipples on the slave cylinder with a Pneumatic Brake Bleeder. In this way i have sucked all possible air from the circuit. Remaining air how ''finally!' suggest.
Easy job
Many thanks to all !
I solved like 'finally!' suggest, very very easy ;
1) I have unbolted the secondary clutch slave cylinder from his housing
2) Leaving connected the oil hose, and closed the bleed nipple, i have pushed in and out the steel stick of the cylinder several time until i no more hear the bubbles 'sound' inside the cylinder
3) Rebolt the cylinder
Well done. The pedal it's perfect.
Remember !
> before to do this procedure, i have bleeded the circuit from the bleeding nipples on the slave cylinder with a Pneumatic Brake Bleeder. In this way i have sucked all possible air from the circuit. Remaining air how ''finally!' suggest.
Easy job
02-21-2012, 09:13 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Excellent news! If you want to experience and excercise in futility try bleeding the clutch on a 1990-1996 300ZX! has TWO bleed points and beyond that is frankly THE PITA !
UGH!
UGH!
i'm from Italy don't understand all.....
02-21-2012, 01:06 PM
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Today it's a lucky day
1) it's arrived from UK a copy of a ignition key (i had only one key)
2) i fixed the headlight regulator motor (does'nt work)
3) i fixed the rear tailgate motor (does'nt work)
4) i fixed the rear wiper motor (does'nt work)
5) i cleaned all the seats with special cleaner, now it's brilliant
6) i fixed a rear left safety belt, doesn't roll down
7) i fixed a rear light courtesy switch, does'nt light up
Tomorrow i want to install a rear sensor for reverse gear.
I found it on ebay one type built inside a reverse mirror that light up when
the car goes in reverse gear, not bad.
Tomorrow i want to use the car to check if the clutch works fine, so i can
reassemble the undercover.
After all this i must rob a bank to put petrol inside the car.
Today it arrived at 1,900 euro.......... my god.
In Italy we pay the petrol more than all the world i think.
It's possible to put a Gas system on 8 cyl 5000 ??
My wife have a little Chevrolet with Gas system ; pay 15,00 euro and
run 270km !
If i put 15,00 Euro in my machine i go out from garage and stop.
1) it's arrived from UK a copy of a ignition key (i had only one key)
2) i fixed the headlight regulator motor (does'nt work)
3) i fixed the rear tailgate motor (does'nt work)
4) i fixed the rear wiper motor (does'nt work)
5) i cleaned all the seats with special cleaner, now it's brilliant
6) i fixed a rear left safety belt, doesn't roll down
7) i fixed a rear light courtesy switch, does'nt light up
Tomorrow i want to install a rear sensor for reverse gear.
I found it on ebay one type built inside a reverse mirror that light up when
the car goes in reverse gear, not bad.
Tomorrow i want to use the car to check if the clutch works fine, so i can
reassemble the undercover.
After all this i must rob a bank to put petrol inside the car.
Today it arrived at 1,900 euro.......... my god.
In Italy we pay the petrol more than all the world i think.
It's possible to put a Gas system on 8 cyl 5000 ??
My wife have a little Chevrolet with Gas system ; pay 15,00 euro and
run 270km !
If i put 15,00 Euro in my machine i go out from garage and stop.
02-21-2012, 01:27 PM
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frankje,
Congratulations on getting so many problems solved!
You have my sympathy on the price of petrol. Our price is the highest that it has ever been on this date (our price varies thru the year) - but the cost for unleaded premium here is 0,737 per litre ($3.70/gallon). Your price is about $9.50/gallon.
It would be interesting to put a gas system on a 928. I assume that you are talking about either LPG (propane) or LNG (liquified natural gas). The biggest problem would be mounting the tank.
Congratulations on getting so many problems solved!
You have my sympathy on the price of petrol. Our price is the highest that it has ever been on this date (our price varies thru the year) - but the cost for unleaded premium here is 0,737 per litre ($3.70/gallon). Your price is about $9.50/gallon.
It would be interesting to put a gas system on a 928. I assume that you are talking about either LPG (propane) or LNG (liquified natural gas). The biggest problem would be mounting the tank.
02-21-2012, 02:10 PM
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Hi Wally,
here in Italy it's called GPL the gas (your LPG). The tank can be fitted in the trunk. There are several type of tank like rounded, cylinder, and different size of that. Years ago i asked for the installation but the vendor asked to me a lot of money, i remember about 4000 euro...... too much !
I think it's better to emigrate to your country, i just was thinking about.....
here in Italy it's called GPL the gas (your LPG). The tank can be fitted in the trunk. There are several type of tank like rounded, cylinder, and different size of that. Years ago i asked for the installation but the vendor asked to me a lot of money, i remember about 4000 euro...... too much !
I think it's better to emigrate to your country, i just was thinking about.....