My next door neighbor painted his rusty van next to my 88 S4
10-11-2012, 04:19 PM
#47
Rennlist Member
Not being able to see the extent of the actual problem may slightly change my mind on this but if you notice that the two painters have said to use lacquer thinners, I think you should take that onboard.
The paint job I did would have cost around $20K and it would worry me in the slightest tip a litre tin of laquer thinners over the paintwork and then wipe it down.
The only place that you will damage is the plastic beading between the bar and body if the liquid gets it the joint. It will probably temporarily swell up and i also mentioned dont get thinner on the black powder coat. You can't damage good (aged) paint work with thinners unless you soak the paintwork for lengthy periods.
I hope the lister has fixed the problem and may have killed two birds with one stone, I.e removed the problem and polished the car at once but if there was a lot of foreign matter on the paintwork the method employed is the hard way of doing things.
The paint job I did would have cost around $20K and it would worry me in the slightest tip a litre tin of laquer thinners over the paintwork and then wipe it down.
The only place that you will damage is the plastic beading between the bar and body if the liquid gets it the joint. It will probably temporarily swell up and i also mentioned dont get thinner on the black powder coat. You can't damage good (aged) paint work with thinners unless you soak the paintwork for lengthy periods.
I hope the lister has fixed the problem and may have killed two birds with one stone, I.e removed the problem and polished the car at once but if there was a lot of foreign matter on the paintwork the method employed is the hard way of doing things.
10-11-2012, 05:01 PM
#48
Nordschleife Master
Another product you may want to try is TR-3 Resin glaze. Polisher / Cleaner - removes oxidation. Ive used to many times with excellent results. Plus if you paint is so/so you will see a noticeable improvement in shine.
word of warning - once you start - you need to finish the whole car. For the simple fact that all panels wont have the same shine if you dont.
word of warning - once you start - you need to finish the whole car. For the simple fact that all panels wont have the same shine if you dont.
10-11-2012, 06:27 PM
#50
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Looks like your wife deserves some spanking lol. Yeah, I ran into a similar situation once, but from that moment on I have been using only professional painters who do just that, paint furniture.
10-24-2012, 11:42 PM
#51
Drifting
Try a 50/50% mix of lacquer thinner and isoprophyl alcohol (97% rubbing alcohol). That's what opticians use to clean paint off plastic lenses. Strong enough to remove the paint without melting the plastic lenses
10-25-2012, 12:07 AM
#52
10-25-2012, 12:17 AM
#53
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Hey guys,
This morning I went to my car and saw a bunch of Rustolium spray paint cans seating behind the neighbors van. Apparently he decided to paint the roof of his car and the front with spray cans. My car was parked right next to it (I live in apartments) and my whole car on both sides is covered in paint dust. All the glasses, panels, window seals, headlights, tail lights. He didn't bother to cover anything. Anyways I took the car to car wash and washed it. The paint is not coming off. I used some WD-40 in a small area and that seems to work well. But is WD-40 harmful for paint. Does any one know of a good cleaner to take this over spray off without removing some of my own paint. He used Aluminum silver paint on his van.
My car is guards red, most of it is the original single stage paint, some of the rear panels have clear coat on them. I don't want to clay bar it because someone did it before me and the paint is already tin in some areas.
This morning I went to my car and saw a bunch of Rustolium spray paint cans seating behind the neighbors van. Apparently he decided to paint the roof of his car and the front with spray cans. My car was parked right next to it (I live in apartments) and my whole car on both sides is covered in paint dust. All the glasses, panels, window seals, headlights, tail lights. He didn't bother to cover anything. Anyways I took the car to car wash and washed it. The paint is not coming off. I used some WD-40 in a small area and that seems to work well. But is WD-40 harmful for paint. Does any one know of a good cleaner to take this over spray off without removing some of my own paint. He used Aluminum silver paint on his van.
My car is guards red, most of it is the original single stage paint, some of the rear panels have clear coat on them. I don't want to clay bar it because someone did it before me and the paint is already tin in some areas.
10-25-2012, 09:57 PM
#55
Rennlist Member
sux , but I really dont think it is as bad as you think. if the car had a good coat of way, I think you will find that a good wash will take a lot of it off. Then move to a bug and tar sponge and see how much that takes off. I think you will find that it comes off a lot easier than you think.
10-27-2012, 04:49 PM
#57
Rennlist Member
I think you need to paint the back of the fwits pick up truck with 5 tons of wet readymix last thing at night but I suppose there is a law against that!
A detailing shop will get that crud off in less than an hour I would guess.
Fred
A detailing shop will get that crud off in less than an hour I would guess.
Fred
