aaddpp

Brad, sorry to see what happened, that really stinks after all the work you put into the car. I was going through my parts bin today, and realized I have an extra center TB cover - the one your oil gear dug into. Its got a small crack in it, but otherwise is in decent condition. I was going to toss it since I bought a replacement, but, if you want it, its yours for shipping. PM me if you want some pics of the cover and the area with the crack. Best of luck with a speedy resolution.

Dave

brutus

looking at this picture it shows that the edge of the belt was wearing over time it is now a bit over 1/2 original width. This did not happen in an instant and I have to think that the tension on the belt was changing quite a lot over time as the rubber band was being cut down on the side. I think it is very likely that the crude simple tension warning light would have come on well BEFORE the gear finally worked it's way all the way off. Not that it helps any in this case.

Vilhuer

Was there thin washer behind oil pump gear? On alu gears there should be 1mm thick washer behind it to prevent gear eating itself into wider part of pump shaft. Part number is 928 107 166 00. I think 16x1mm DIN 988 washer can be used instead factory part.

928mac

Thanks Butus, ya who knows. ILL try and do it right one more time.

I don't remember, Vilhuer, I will be using the steel gear this time.

Hey Dave, thanks for the center cover offer. I may need it. send me a pic. Thanks

davek9

If you look at the pic of the back of the gear, it looks like it was wearing on the shaft. So maybe the spacer was omitted.

Man I feel for you, having redone two, one yet to fire up, I know how much labor / time is involved.

Dave K

Bill Ball

So, even with the key, the gear can wear that much on the shaft? I was aware of that thin spacer/washer but never understood its exact purpose. Thanks to Erkka again.

borland

The WSM doesn't specify thread locker, but when I removed the sprocket from my '90 S4 to renew the oil pump o-rings, I noticed thread locking compound on the threaded portion of the shaft (from the factory sprocket install).

So, I reinstalled the sprocket and used 'blue' locktite and WSM specified torque.

Bill Ball

Where is that in the WSM?

borland

PET specifies shaft hex nut as M10.

WSM Vol 1, page 10-09 (engine torque specs) says for M10, 30 +4 ft-lbs.

hans14914

I happen to have a spare set of R2 heads here if you wanted a core set to rebuild. I wont need a set for a couple months (plus I also have a spare complete R2 engine) so if helps you out, glad to send them north.

AO

Aww crap! That sucks. I feel (deeply) for you.

killav

Another reason why every 89 I have driven or rode in runs like stink on a stick (with the 2.54 gearing and true 10:1 compression) vs every other 87/88 car I have been in/driven.

Lizard928

I don't know, 87 with boost......
I'm glad I don't have the shorter gearing in my car mike!

Brad, if you need help or cams.....

928mac

Thanks Guys Wow what a great club and bunch of guy, I dont care what James brown says ha ha
Hans and everyone else that has offered,
thank you but I am going to stick with the original parts until I know for sure if I cant use something.
The worse will be if a piston is cracked
What will take a while will be to source if I can borrow the tools to rebuild the heads my self or if ILL have to send them out.
Since they will have to be plained I may have a shop do them

I don't expect to rush and try to get it running this year but next spring after the snow is gone I expect it to LIVE Again.

killav

True, but we are cheating~haha

I wish I had the better heads from the 89, but I'm glad I have lower compression....