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Old 06-27-2012, 01:30 AM
  #31  
soupcan
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Originally Posted by 928er
also replace the bolt if you don't know when it was replaced last. At some point they won't hold torque anymore.... but I learned that one the hard way.
Murf kits come with new longer bolt.
Old 06-27-2012, 02:37 AM
  #32  
zsamro243
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Unit Price: $66.00
Old 06-27-2012, 02:47 AM
  #33  
Fabio421
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They can be very tight and time consuming to remove if you don't have the correct tool. THIS qualifies as a correct tool. This is a snap on ratchet with about a 5' long handle. I fought that crank bolt forever until I pulled this out. Then it took just seconds to remove it with very little straining or fanfare.



Old 06-27-2012, 07:33 AM
  #34  
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If you don't have a flywheel lock and use a Pneumatic gun, there is a chance that the engine might rotate the wrong way. Be careful not to do any damage.
Old 06-27-2012, 09:27 AM
  #35  
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I struggled with the crank bolt (had the flywheel lock installed) using 1/2" drive tools, including snapping a Craftsman extension. I switched to 3/4" drive tools, and was surprised when, as fabio says, the bolt turned out with no straining.
Old 06-27-2012, 03:57 PM
  #36  
jetrainor
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A few here have warned about counter rotating the engine....while i havent done that, i wonder if it is true?........cant see how that would throw timing out.
Old 06-27-2012, 04:05 PM
  #37  
Fabio421
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Originally Posted by jetrainor
A few here have warned about counter rotating the engine....while i havent done that, i wonder if it is true?........cant see how that would throw timing out.
It has something to do with the timing belt and tensioner. I'll let others who are more lerned than me explain in detail.
Old 06-27-2012, 04:12 PM
  #38  
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The jack handle alternative illustrated. Harbor Freight 3/4 inch drive and 4.5' handle from a Craftsman jack. Never failed, although Nicole's crank bolt took an estimated 600-700 ft lbs to break free. You'd be surprised at how easy 218 ft lbs is with a little leverage.
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Old 06-27-2012, 04:40 PM
  #39  
GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by jetrainor
A few here have warned about counter rotating the engine....while i havent done that, i wonder if it is true?........cant see how that would throw timing out.
Only if the belt is very loose.

And virtually only on an "early" car with the "square" drive belt.
Old 06-27-2012, 04:47 PM
  #40  
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There was some discussion that turning backwards puts a lot of stress on the curved washers in the tensioner ?? They tension the unloaded portion of the belt normally.
Old 06-27-2012, 05:43 PM
  #41  
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Page 15-104 "CHECKING AND ADJUSTING TOOTHED BELT (32 VALVE ENGINE)"
"Note
Never turn engine anticlockwise, because toothed belt could jump off if tightness were insufficient."

As Greg says, not too likely, but I try to avoid the risk if I can.
Old 06-27-2012, 06:21 PM
  #42  
blown 87
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Originally Posted by Fabio421
They can be very tight and time consuming to remove if you don't have the correct tool. THIS qualifies as a correct tool. This is a snap on ratchet with about a 5' long handle. I fought that crank bolt forever until I pulled this out. Then it took just seconds to remove it with very little straining or fanfare.
That is what I use for them, not much to it with that, and the 3/4 Snap-On TechAngle wrench is even longer, so getting it torqued up is not a issue either.
I do it from under that car.
Old 06-28-2012, 04:45 AM
  #43  
Podguy
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Originally Posted by jetrainor
A few here have warned about counter rotating the engine....while i havent done that, i wonder if it is true?........cant see how that would throw timing out.
I do it all the time and have never had a problem. Granted I do not crank it all the way around but a little jog here or there is not going to cause any problems.
Old 06-28-2012, 01:27 PM
  #44  
jetrainor
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Well, thanks for clearing that up guys.......i guess my porken tensioner makes it all that much less likely.



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