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Old 06-19-2012, 09:52 PM
  #16  
Lizard928
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John, any chance you want to just come do the install here?
I probably have another pulley too
Old 06-25-2012, 04:37 PM
  #17  
jetrainor
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Colin.....too much apart at this point.....ive finished the injector swap over and think i'll pull the rad as well so we can get an impact gun on the crank bolt......its about a quarter inch too tight to get a decent impact in there..a buddy and i used a locking tool and a three quarter inch bar with 3 foot snipe on it and couldnt budge the bolt.........if i lived in the lower mainland area i would have got you to do it.
Old 06-25-2012, 05:00 PM
  #18  
GregBBRD
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I got really tired of flexing and breaking 1/2" drive stuff. I already had metric 3/4" deep impact sockets, for working at the track, so I bought a long 3/4" breaker bar and remove the bolt with that. Once the "flex part" of the equation is removed, those crank bolts "jump" out of there. I don't even bother getting the 1/2" drive stuff out, any more.

This mechanic stuff is easy. And I just laugh at the people that bitch about my hourly rate, especially when they aren't looking at my $200,000 worth of tools.
Old 06-25-2012, 05:47 PM
  #19  
Lizard928
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Greg,

I hear you on the bitching about the hourly rate etc.

John,

I am considering a trip up your way once fruit starts more.
I will contact you closer to that time.
Old 06-25-2012, 08:26 PM
  #20  
dcrasta
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Originally Posted by jetrainor
Hmmmmmm...well, guess that explains why my inch and a quarter socket/12 inch bar didnt do much..i have the car on my 4 post lift and am working from underneath....with the fans gone, there's still not a lot of room in there...obvioulsy with a big bar im going to have to work from the topside.
LEFTY LOOSEY - RIGHTY TIGHTY ?

COLIN.....any chance of putting the flywheel lock and a bar on the Greyhound for me?

jt

I fear the car and the weight of the car.

If I were you I would lower it back and work from the top. Assuming you have the hood removed, put some fender covers and blankets on the passenger side (left looking from the front). and driver side fenders (incase your tool slips)
Get the lock tool on there, (using long bolts to hold it securely), heat that bolt up til it starts to smoke a little (you dont want it glowing or anything like that).. , let it cool then spray some PB blaster on it.

Tap it with a hammer and put the correct socket on it, I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a jack handle extension). Push (not pull) the bar over . If you start with the bar @ 2:00 position you should be able to crack it over to the 12:00 position.

Maybe I was lucky, but this is what I did, and my little 170lb self was able to break this loose. This and the main axle nuts may be the hardest bolts on the car.

Good luck, and dont forget to work smart- usually there is a solution (leverage, chemicals, slight heat, mechanical tapping) that works better than brute force . (brute force usually breaks things..)

Last edited by dcrasta; 06-27-2012 at 12:04 PM.
Old 06-25-2012, 08:34 PM
  #21  
fraggle
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I used a shorter extension and a jack from underneath. Get the rad out of there just in case.

Since that first service it's been pretty easy.
Old 06-25-2012, 08:52 PM
  #22  
17prospective buyer
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Originally Posted by brutus
Many use a jack handle as a long breaker bar. leverage is your friend just be sure when the bolt breaks free you do not smash things with the long exstension.
+928

Frequently came handy when i pulled my motor.
Old 06-26-2012, 03:40 AM
  #23  
dfrhodes
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My next planned step was to use dry ice to shrink the bolt down. That method has worked better than heating for me in other situations.

luckily the 3/4 and 6' cheater worked and it didn't come to that. worth a shot though after all else fails.
Old 06-26-2012, 05:39 PM
  #24  
dr bob
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There's only the hex head of the bolt exposed for any dry ice coling. Similarly, you can'tget heat on the nose of the crank without heating the bolt first, so unless you are trying to soften some misplaced LocTite, heat is not a practical option. 3/4" drive socket, 5' bar, none has been able to resist so far. They come out like butter if you use the right socket and a long enough lever.

FWIW, rental yards often have stuff like this if you don't care to invest in your own set.
Old 06-26-2012, 06:18 PM
  #25  
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John, I used a 3/4" breaker bar and about 4 ft of pipe and it broke loose fairly easily
Old 06-26-2012, 10:17 PM
  #26  
jetrainor
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Appreciate all the comments......pulled the rad today after work and that is going to make it easier...yah, agree that having the car on my 4 post lift and yanking on that bar didnt feel that cool, so will lock on the tool and wrench on thebar from the ground. The fuel injector swap over went real well so its one step at a time. Colin......it wasnt the new pulley which was scarred up....the new one from Tim is fine.
Old 06-26-2012, 10:21 PM
  #27  
928er
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also replace the bolt if you don't know when it was replaced last. At some point they won't hold torque anymore.... but I learned that one the hard way.
Old 06-26-2012, 10:31 PM
  #28  
Imo000
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Originally Posted by 928 at last
Using the proper locking tool will save you a lot of grief and aggravation/damage. Wait, your "Mech" has apparently already seriously screwed up.

You really need to use the locking tool and a SERIOUS power bar (with a six foot (yes really) pipe extension if necessary to break the crank bolt loose. (Mine took roughly 3x the suggested torque value to release). Be very careful how you do this, because a miscalculation when it breaks free will result in a nasty dent in the bodywork if you're not aligned and ready for it.
Same thing on install. Flywheel lock in place and then bring the bolt up to the spec. torque value.
I still have that breaker bar ya know! It hasn't twisted any furthen than when you tried to rotate the Earth with it.
Old 06-27-2012, 12:12 AM
  #29  
928 at last
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Default Well you now have a warranty.

Originally Posted by Imo000
I still have that breaker bar ya know! It hasn't twisted any furthen than when you tried to rotate the Earth with it.


Must have worked, didn't you notice the weather changed for a while after I did the T belt?

In any event, you now have a lifetime warranty on that tool. If it ever lets go, I really do owe you the replacement.
Old 06-27-2012, 12:17 AM
  #30  
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Is there even an impact gun made that will get one of these out when it's being seriously stubborn?
I would imagine there might be, but it would be at one of those mining operations to work on the pit trucks.......and needs a psi value that requires special hoses......and three swedes and a hairy *** boy to hold it when some poor fool pulled the trigger......kinda like using a gas operated commercial post-hole digger with one guy on the bar when it hits a rock......


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