Cam cover sealants..
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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Getting read to tackle my cam cover remove and replace, broken bolt replace...I am replacing all gaskets and seals, etc..These covers will be coming off again in the fall, so i can do the refresh, powder coat and cam pads,etc...
My Question.........
What sealants, and thread lockers/lubricants to use...
I have heard lots about hylomar, yamabond, hondabond, loctite, rtv, ...
Since the covers are coming back off relatively soon, would the blue rtv be adequate for the cam cover?
Also, what are we using on the spark plug threads...I have used grey anti-seize, but have read that this is not to be used with the aluminum heads.
thnx...
An update of past recent work...
Transmission all back together!!!!........filter, new re-manufactured hoses, modulator, K-1 spring,, vac lines, exhaust cat bypass, O2 sensor bung welded in, heat shields, undercarriage clean. etc
Car runs and sounds AMAZING!!! No leaks AT ALL!!!!! on transmission...
I ended up using a deck sprayer to service the transmission fluid..Works great!!....
Thnx for everyone's help!!!
My Question.........
What sealants, and thread lockers/lubricants to use...
I have heard lots about hylomar, yamabond, hondabond, loctite, rtv, ...
Since the covers are coming back off relatively soon, would the blue rtv be adequate for the cam cover?
Also, what are we using on the spark plug threads...I have used grey anti-seize, but have read that this is not to be used with the aluminum heads.
thnx...
An update of past recent work...
Transmission all back together!!!!........filter, new re-manufactured hoses, modulator, K-1 spring,, vac lines, exhaust cat bypass, O2 sensor bung welded in, heat shields, undercarriage clean. etc
Car runs and sounds AMAZING!!! No leaks AT ALL!!!!! on transmission...
I ended up using a deck sprayer to service the transmission fluid..Works great!!....
Thnx for everyone's help!!!
#3
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Rennlist Member
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See the thread Experts: please school us on sealants, threadlockers, anti-seizes, and lubricants from a couple of years ago. Post #2 from Stan in that thread answers your question; I followed that advice and it worked out great for me. See also post #17 in that thread and the related follow-up posts.
Lots of other noteworthy content in that thread, too (don't miss post #4 from Greg, either).
Lots of other noteworthy content in that thread, too (don't miss post #4 from Greg, either).
#4
Former Sponsor
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I just took apart a 968 engine, that the people used a sealant everywhere....on the entire V/C gasket and all four of the spark plug seals. Idiots. By the time I got all that crap off, it might have been cheaper to just buy new pieces. What a mess.
You only need a small dab of sealant in the four corners, like the factory used.
Leave the caulking gun for redoing your bathtub, in the bathroom.
You only need a small dab of sealant in the four corners, like the factory used.
Leave the caulking gun for redoing your bathtub, in the bathroom.
#5
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I just finished taking off and putting back on the passenger side valve cover on my '86. I did find trace amounts of reside in the valve cover groove for the gasket in addition to the halo of the spark plug cylinders of the cover which I scrapped off with a wire brush then smoothed some sand paper.
I used Hondabond on the inside of the groove, only a small amount to line all the way through then pressed the gasket in firmly to clean off any sealant that was peeking through. I also put a very very thin layer on the inner side of the spark plug seals before fitting them in. I also applied a very very thin layer on the flat side of the spark plug seals and of course at the four corners.
Putting the sealant on the inside of the groove and inner side of the seals made installing the cover back easier since the gasket and seals were held in place and there was little chance of it coming off no matter how much I fumbled the cover.
After installing I let her idle and checked for leaks around the cover and bolts, then drove around then checked for leaks again. Pulled the spark plug wires and checked for leaks on the cylinder.
Dry all around.
I used Hondabond on the inside of the groove, only a small amount to line all the way through then pressed the gasket in firmly to clean off any sealant that was peeking through. I also put a very very thin layer on the inner side of the spark plug seals before fitting them in. I also applied a very very thin layer on the flat side of the spark plug seals and of course at the four corners.
Putting the sealant on the inside of the groove and inner side of the seals made installing the cover back easier since the gasket and seals were held in place and there was little chance of it coming off no matter how much I fumbled the cover.
After installing I let her idle and checked for leaks around the cover and bolts, then drove around then checked for leaks again. Pulled the spark plug wires and checked for leaks on the cylinder.
Dry all around.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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Another thing that seems to have not been mentioned yet is the spark plugs. These should be installed dry, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. No oil, no sealant, no anti-seize. Spark plugs are surprisingly weak where the porcelain insulator meets the metal (the metal here is not solid as you would think, it's very thin and a weak point when removing them). They are designed for a specific torque spec, and torque specs are usually stated as "dry" which means that lubricating the threads reduces friction and therefore all torque (or turning force to overcome friction) is being incorrectly represented in one spot (usually the head of the fastener or spark plug). If you use anything on the spark plugs, you have to calculate the new torque. Which is usually at least 20% less than the "dry" torque spec as a rule of thumb.
#7
Race Director
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I just took apart a 968 engine, that the people used a sealant everywhere....on the entire V/C gasket and all four of the spark plug seals. Idiots. By the time I got all that crap off, it might have been cheaper to just buy new pieces. What a mess.
You only need a small dab of sealant in the four corners, like the factory used.
Leave the caulking gun for redoing your bathtub, in the bathroom.
You only need a small dab of sealant in the four corners, like the factory used.
Leave the caulking gun for redoing your bathtub, in the bathroom.
In the few waterpumps I have changed, it was OBVIOUS the ones that had goop everywhere....you were scraping that crap off forever..... the ones that had ONLY the waterpump gasket.....came off very clean....