Kevin in Atlanta

I have had the Commando set up pn the shelf for nearly 2 years. I want to get this done. I have schematics provided by Alan. Sadly, I am electrically impaired.

I have the seats out to re-route some audio wires and think this is the time to install the unit.

I would be more than willing to document with pictures the process for other GTS owners.

TIA.

Randy V

I look forward to the documentation, as I too, am impaired in electron flow.

Alan

Yes - now is the time... what more do you need?... the seat is out and all the connections are right there under the metal cover over the alarm. If your amp is already gone - locate the KE right where it used to be... You can even reuse the the amp supply wiring & fuse to power the KE.

Do you plan to add the hatch release? alarm horn (for panic and/or confirmation) flash the turn signals for lock/unlock confirmation?

Alan

dprantl

Unplug the two boxes that are now visible due to removal of passenger seat. First you have to remove the metal shield that covers them. Then just look at Alan's diagram and you will also need the JPEG of the description of each pin's function for the two plugs. Then, just splice into the correct wires and connect to the commando harness. It's not that hard once you start.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Alan

On a GTS there is only one alarm unit with 2 connectors. Do you have the diagram - posted several times before...

The GTS is the easiest KE install of all model years.

Alan

dprantl

You're right, my GT also only has one box, but two connectors. Dunno wtf I was thinking

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

dprantl

Here's the diagram you need for the connector descriptions:

https://rennlist.com/forums/2629128-post27.html

You already have Alan's schematic, right? May I suggest you do not mess with the trunk release and just install the locking for now. You need to tap terminals 1, 2, 6, 8, 9 and 10 on Connector I (if you want markers and horn) and you need to buy some diodes and put them in the correct place as Alan's diagram shows. You will also need a relay for the horn. I just connected both power wires of the relay and power for the Commando all together with terminal 1. On Connector II, you just need terminals 1 and 2.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Kevin in Atlanta

I want it all!

I ran wires a couple of years ago to support the hatch release.

Got my diagrams and the unit and wires, etc. Will need to acquire the diodes later.

Ready to rock!

Kevin in Atlanta

Ok, I have almost everything to move forward on this. I am short a the relay pigtail for the hatch relay. Alan, where did you get them?

Alan

Most auto shops have them - look on ebay for relay/socket pigtail kits

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

Getting closer. Let's talk wires - Commando
Yellow = Ignition Switch Input - Is this necessary?
White = Parking Lights
Grey = Hatch
Brown = Horn
Red = 12v
Black = Ground
Blue = (+) Lock;(-) Unlock
Green = (+) Unlock;(-) Lock

Still need the diodes - another trip to Radio Shack!

After a visit to Radio Shack I decided to use interlocking connectors. One 12 pin for the alarm wires and 1 four pin for the power related.

Starting to have fun...

dprantl

Yes, yellow is required. The Commando has to know when the ignition is on or off. You have a bus-15 wire on one of the alarm connectors.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Alan

Actually for a GTS yellow doesn't matter - for earlier years it does (if you want to use dome light feature)

It uses ignition to lock out some features (e.g. lock/arm) and to truncate others (dome light) - since the GTS alarm/central lock/interior lighting module does all these already you should be able to leave it floating (mine is).

I'd connect 'White' to the turn signals instead - they are much brighter & more visible (corner location) than the parking lights and though you need 2 diodes for this - you also will need the same for the parking lights.

Alan

Kevin in Atlanta

Couldn't find ~5 diodes at my local RadioShack.

Is 6.0 going to be ok for the turn signals?

Alan

Actually more is good - each side has 2 x 21W bulbs so thats about 2A per bulb so approx 4A steady state for each diode.

However the initial current in these bulbs is quite a bit higher instantaneousluy when they first switch on - so perhaps choose 10A if you can find them. I believe mine are actually 25A stud diodes - but only because I had a bunch of them to hand already...

Alan