before you do anymore you need all of the light housings wired correctly,
then you can begin to troubleshoot
post a picture of all the lights ,
the 2 door ones are different then the roof ones.
the hatch wires are different colors than the one over the mirror.
Capiech!

to see if the door edge lights are going out,
roll down a window
then you look inside the door to see the rearside of the light,
you will be able to see if its on

BUT lts make sure you have the lights wired correctly first

 

In a darkened environment, you can see the red light in the door gap with the door closed. If it is not going off, that will cause a drain. Check both sides.

 

if you have good door seals you cant see any light through the side of the door gap.

roll down the window and look inside the door its easy to see if the light is on as it will reflect out the backside of the housing.

once the lights are wired correctly then we can begin to trouble shoot ,
right now our marksman is chasing his tail

 

The small red light are wired in series to the "door open" light....so if the one working light is off the red light will be off as well

The other lights may be disconnected due to PO trying to troubleshoot the lighting.

The fact that the alarm is jumbered brings me back to that rear hatch switch...I did the same.

My rear hatch would set off the alarm after I disarmed it with the key, ended up when I closed the hatch, the alarm would sound..because it was sending a false positive to the alarm box. It ended up being the faulty light switch on the receiver.

 

You are right as usual Stan. I must have been thinking of other car. You did tell him exactly how to check his door edge lights though.
Thanks,
Dave

 

I trust you do know how the light switches work and if the light are installed are flipped upside down, they will appear to work in the opposite direction.

265mA is a significant drain. You should see 30mA with the doors closed (interior lights off - usually time out at about 25 seconds - EDIT - no time out on 82) and everything proper. Some people are satisfied with 50-60mA, but 30 is the correct number. What is the number after you pull the interior light fuse? If it's higher than 30, keep pulling. After all the fuses and relays, if there is still a draw, pull the plugs at the bottom of the CE panel one at a time. If you find one that kills the drain, create some jumpers for the plug wires, hook them up and pull them one at a time until you locate the offending circuit. There are a few circuits that are not fused and don't go through the CE panel. Note the smaller red wires coming off the postive battery post. Check what effect they may have on the parasitic draw.

 

I've found it expedient to pull, inspect and refresh the panel (ALL new VW-type fuses, not Buss) l + the door pins + interior lights, then check for shorts behind the console, then clean all grounds and replace the neg ground strap....before making the first troubleshooting attempt, certainly before making the first measurement.

Then new fuel lines before we leave the driveway.

 

If I pull the fuse, the draw goes from 265 to 20. Basically the problem is within the fuse 23 circuit.

 

Like he said, corrected some spelling

But I disconnected my alarm because it was going off when ever, ended up being a bad rear hatch light trigger switch....

 

Which again I say was draining my battery

 

Come on Kevin. Be honest now.

 

Dude, looks like you have a one day project...pull the CE panel (disconnect the battery first)..and clean and check for unusual wiring in there

 

Check the fuse lay out for that year car..DO NOT ADD any fuses to empty slots unless It is listed on your fuse lay out

 

You can't add fuses to empty slots on a 928, because there are no hot or cold spades there.

 

Really? earlier another member suggested the same, and I was just placing a reminder...in mine I added a fuse in a slot (out of curiosity to fix a problem) and it disable 1/2 the gauges