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My car arrived, this may go very badly

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Old 04-28-2012, 11:16 AM
  #91  
Mike Frye
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
I test my clutch on a regular basis at stop lights by grabbing reverse.
Is that what you tell yourself? Or like me are you just out of another 5-speed and keep forgetting where the hell first gear is half the time?



To idf: Your comment about it not grinding if you wait is telling. One 'lister stated it perfectly when he said smooth shifting is accomplished by basically 'offering the stick up for the next gear and waiting for it to go in'.

This shouldn't be a long wait and it shouldn't crunch at all so if it does there is a problem. But part of the issue may be a matter of getting used to the setup. Going from a new car (any new car) to shifting the '82 is going to make the '82 seem a bit rough. It's 30 years of general advancement in technology and materials. It's the same reason an entry level compact can have smaller and more consistent body panel gaps than a 30 year old hand-built supercar.

Also FWIW- brakes and clutch use the same fluid so a full flush and fill couldn't hurt and could help a lot.
Old 04-28-2012, 11:25 AM
  #92  
911 Crazy
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PPI' are a MUST! Have done 6-8 all over the country in the last couple of months. Even though I have spent $1500 or so I have saved 10x that amount. Just this week had one done and the seller agreed to fix almost everything!
Old 04-28-2012, 11:33 AM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by idf
Thats a good question, let me check. I have used reverse once or twice, dont recall a crunch but will check.

I went for a run this morning and first thing I did was reverse and there was a crunch. So it basically crunches in all gears. I have not seen it happen in 5th but havent engaged 5th much.
Old 04-28-2012, 11:47 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
There is a lot of rotating mass with these cars, meaning you have to pause for a second before grabbing reverse. The transmission, torque tube, and clutch all have to stop rotating or it will crunch.

If you push in the clutch pedal, wait a few seconds and it doesn't crunch.....then the clutch is fully releasing. There is no synchro in reverse which is why you have to wait for everything to stop rotating.

I test my clutch on a regular basis at stop lights by grabbing reverse. It's an "early warning system" that tells me something is up if I can start to feel the gears mashing together.

Most early 928's have synchro issues due to users who kept driving with clutches that were not fully releasing, and taking them to shops that had no clue how to diagnose or adjust them. Since first and second are the most used gears, they wear out first and that is why they are grinding.
As per previous post, the crunch happens at a stand still with first gear.

I do get the sense driving this car has been the victim of a bit of abuse.


Originally Posted by Mike Frye
To idf: Your comment about it not grinding if you wait is telling. One 'lister stated it perfectly when he said smooth shifting is accomplished by basically 'offering the stick up for the next gear and waiting for it to go in'.

This shouldn't be a long wait and it shouldn't crunch at all so if it does there is a problem. But part of the issue may be a matter of getting used to the setup. Going from a new car (any new car) to shifting the '82 is going to make the '82 seem a bit rough. It's 30 years of general advancement in technology and materials. It's the same reason an entry level compact can have smaller and more consistent body panel gaps than a 30 year old hand-built supercar.

Also FWIW- brakes and clutch use the same fluid so a full flush and fill couldn't hurt and could help a lot.
On my drive this morning I tried out this suggestion and I took a long pause between shifts. There were fewer crunches but they still happened. I sense the shifter is a bit vague as well, indicating a linkage or bushing or something. I just dont get the sense the car wants to take on the next gear. I feel like I really have to jam it in to get a shift complete.
Old 04-28-2012, 11:58 AM
  #95  
Lizard928
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Your clutch is dragging, please stop driving the car until my previous advice about adjusting the clutch etc is followed!
Old 04-28-2012, 12:11 PM
  #96  
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As others have said over and over - the car has a dual-plate clutch, and proper adjustment of the clutch is critical. It is almost certain that your clutch must be adjusted before the car is really drivable.

This clutch adjustment must be done by someone who knows the 928 dual-plate clutch. There is virtually no chance that any general garage, or any "Porsche shop" can do this properly unless they are specifically very familiar with the 928 dual-plate clutch.

The car will not shift properly until the clutch is adjusted by someone who knows how to do it.

While I know this isn't what you want to hear - a 928 owner either learns to do repairs and maintenance, or learns to pay a lot of money for someone else to do them. Training a shop to work on your 928 is very, very frustrating and expensive...

(BTW - the later 928 transmissions are synchronized in reverse.)
Old 04-28-2012, 12:27 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by idf
I went for a run this morning and first thing I did was reverse and there was a crunch. So it basically crunches in all gears. I have not seen it happen in 5th but havent engaged 5th much.
this sounds like good news.dont drive the car again untill the clutch adjustment is sorted and you might just have a gearbox in good condition.when you press the clutch how many inches below the level of the brake peddle is the clutch peddle when you start to feel resistance ie starting to operate ? in other words how much clutch peddle do you have?
Old 04-28-2012, 02:27 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by idf
Much less so. If I am very deliberate and slow, the crunching has only happened a couple of times.

Many people have sworn by RedLine gear oil to help smooth an old tranny.
Old 04-28-2012, 04:09 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by dogleg
this sounds like good news.dont drive the car again untill the clutch adjustment is sorted and you might just have a gearbox in good condition.when you press the clutch how many inches below the level of the brake peddle is the clutch peddle when you start to feel resistance ie starting to operate ? in other words how much clutch peddle do you have?
I sure hope so. I sense about 2 inches, maybe a touch more. Its hard to judge with your feet. I can say that the clutch petal feels like its way towards the top before it engages.
Old 04-28-2012, 06:13 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by idf
I sure hope so. I sense about 2 inches, maybe a touch more. Its hard to judge with your feet. I can say that the clutch petal feels like its way towards the top before it engages.
i think 2" below the brake peddle is not enough peddle travel for the clutch to operate properly.it is very easy to adjust the height of the clutch peddle from inside the car with 2 open ended spanners. unlock the lock nut on the push rod from the top of the clutch peddle to the clutch master cylinder.increase the length of the push rod bar untill you only have 1/2" of free play at the top of the clutch peddle.this will only take you 5 minutes to do. keep us posted as to whether it makes any difference.good luck!

Last edited by dogleg; 04-28-2012 at 08:37 PM.
Old 04-28-2012, 06:42 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by dogleg
i think 2" below the brake peddle is not enough peddle travel for the clutch to operate properly.it is very easy to adjust the height of the clutch peddle from inside the car with 2 open ended spanners. unlock the lock nut on the push rod from the top of the clutch peddle to the clutch master cylinder.increase the length of the push rod bar untill you only have 1/2" of free play at the top of the clutch peddle.this will only take you 5 minutes to do.do this and keep us posted as to whether it makes any difference.good luck!
Sorry Dogleg, I misunderstood your question, I thought you were talking about how many inches of bite the clutch had.

You mean travel from petal to floor. From its normal resting place, I would say about 6" of travel, feels very typical to clutches on other sticks I have driven.
Old 04-28-2012, 07:45 PM
  #102  
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Good luck with your new 928 and welcome to the journey. Once you get over the initial shock (if you get by that!) fix her to a good running 928 you will fall in love. I have a 79 that I bought for 2500. It needed a alternator belt, battery, shifter couplings, plugs and wires fuel pum and acumulator and fuel lines.and for good measure I did the wp/tb and added 85 euro cams.

The car has been my DD for 3 yrs and is ROCK SOLID when it comes to driving everyday! By the way I am in the process of painting it black, rims too!

Also by some relays and keep them in your car! You know the ones you need to drive.
Old 04-28-2012, 08:33 PM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by idf
Sorry Dogleg, I misunderstood your question, I thought you were talking about how many inches of bite the clutch had.

You mean travel from petal to floor. From its normal resting place, I would say about 6" of travel, feels very typical to clutches on other sticks I have driven.
if you pull the pedal upwards by hand as far as it will go, how much free play do you have at the top of the clutch pedal?

Last edited by dogleg; 04-28-2012 at 08:50 PM.
Old 04-28-2012, 08:34 PM
  #104  
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I just drove my 3k 928 that needed only < 1k to get her going well with a parts car for interior stuff and 100 hours of my time (I feel lucky). My 5 spd. shifing improved greatly after bleeding. 2nd was hard to find, now, pretty smooth for a 31 year old. These years of 928s are definitely all about the cruise, the feel, the looks and country roads, imho. Plus all the women but only if you are single.

Hope it improves and you keep it.
Old 04-28-2012, 08:45 PM
  #105  
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pedal is a noun, peddle is a verb.


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