Tampa 928s

86 compressor is leaking all the stickers are removed how do I tell which model is installed? Are the Denso and Nippodenso the same?

Tampa 928s

Looking for tools to pull and set the seal and a rebuild kit for my compressor.

griffiths

Stock compressor was a Nippondenso. You can think of Denso to be the same to simplify.
The shop manual shows how to R&R. Common tools however nose seal likes its own common seal
tool but you can adapt something easily.

Seal Kit

Bill Ball

Denso is the new name for Nippondenso as of 1996.

You should have a 6E171. There should be a plate riveted on the backside with the model information.

You can get shaft seal, gasket kits and cutch bearings from several sources.

Griffiths (see previous post)

Arizona Mobile Air: http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?S...&Store_Code=01

AC Source: http://www.acsource.com/index.aspx

There are no special tools needed to take the compressor apart and install new seals.

Tampa 928s

I have it apart and the seal seems to be incased in a metal shroud with a spring. Does not want to pull off by hand any hints on this so not to bend the metal holder? I read a tool is used to install this seal 07114-15010, this is a fairly resent rebuild and the seal looks good, wonder why it is leaking?

Bill Ball

I haven't had too much trouble with rebuilding 6E171's but I've failed a few times trying to rebuild the later 10PAs. And I've bought rebuilds that leaked. My current 6E171 leaks some oil but holds a Freon charge, at least for several years. Maybe you do need that seal tool for installation, but it should just knock out towards the rear, IIRC.

Tampa 928s

Thanks Bill found what I needed with your link.

Tampa 928s

What I did find is three spacers and one was bent that sets the clutch gap.

Bill Ball

Not sure how a spacer would get bent. Is the clutch OK? If not, forget rebuilding unless you can find a donor clutch. Also, FYI, if the clutch is burned/melted that's a good sign the compressor is partially seized. I replaced a clutch with a brand new one only to have it burn out rather quickly. Then it became clear the compressor was destroying the clutches. My general feeling about rebuilding compressors is that even though I am a definite DIY kind of guy, it's not worth it, unless it's just that shaft seal. You got a leaky rebuilt compressor, so I understand your motivation, but most likely you got it from one of the cheap eBay rebuilt sources, and that is a real hit and mostly miss gamble. You may fix one thing only to have another go wrong.

griffiths

The Nose Seal is an assembly.
Then you have 3 case orings and of course the 4 manifold orings.
Lot's of things can cause a leak: excessive pressure, R22 rather than R12 or R134a, and naturally time.
With your compressor before you consider replacing orings you'd want to inspect the steel bores and the rings on the pistons, if they look good then move onto the 'wobble' plate (aluminum disc attached to the shaft which the bearing halfs ride on to push the pistons), if the wobble plate is worn then just stop there.
There are plenty of other things to inspect however above is the most common items.

The question is how many miles do you think are on the unit you have, if over 100k then consider
an alternate compressor replacement of a Denso rebuild.

Dilys95

Looking for tools to pull and set the seal and a rebuild kit for my compressor.

Tampa 928s

I used nitrogen and could hear the leak from the front seal. It is possible the the thin spacers were dislodged and bent when removing the clutch @ coil. The key way seemed not to be fully seated ans may have caused the spacers to warp. The compressor was a rebuild but has little use so the plan is replace the seal, check for leakes with nitrogen and hope for the best. The unit was quite, cooled well before this leak, just looking to get the correct tool to install the seal before replacing the unit. I will check for any wobble Etc that may have caused this. Summer in Florida is not a compressor optional state.

griffiths

There is sure to be a few threads on Renn or Pelican on 'how to'.
Have you reviewed the shop manual?
The washers under the clutch hub that sit on the step of the shaft are to set the 'air gap'
between the clutch hub and pulley.

Tampa 928s

I received my rebuild seal kit and the large metal snout seal was not installed in mine, is this generic and do not need it?

griffiths

Clean up the key way slot.

Remove the old shaft seal and make sure the surface where the o-ring contacts the shaft
is not rusted. Remove the old race and its o-ring.

Hope your gonna put the shaft seal race on the correct side.

Torque case allen bolts to 18 ft lbs.

Don't forget to check the clutch air gap.