New front tires are sticking out @1/2 inch. Now what?
#17
Race Car
Seriously? I would say the opposite. Make sure the ride height is up to stock.
And how do you know that it does not rub? It may be okay just driving around, then when you really step into it in the twisties, hello fender damage. BTDT with 8.5" ET52 wheels with 235/40-18's and lower-than-stock ride height. The higher your ride height, the less likely the tire will hit the fender. Of course, if you successfully roll the fenders, then you should be ok.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
And how do you know that it does not rub? It may be okay just driving around, then when you really step into it in the twisties, hello fender damage. BTDT with 8.5" ET52 wheels with 235/40-18's and lower-than-stock ride height. The higher your ride height, the less likely the tire will hit the fender. Of course, if you successfully roll the fenders, then you should be ok.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#18
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#14 was 1st message where wheel width was even mentioned. Without ET and it there is no use making any predictions what fits and what will not. Same thing with actual real life tire width when its mounted on different width wheels. Get these right first and only then start to think about rolling fenders etc.
#19
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What MK really meant to say was "let it settle a bit." It's been raised to put the tires on. Go drive it another 50 miles or so and see where it ends up. As it settles the rest of the way, the wheels will go more negative camber and will look perfect.
#20
Under the Lift
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Although Dr. Bob makes a good point, MK could mean to lower the ride height further. That will camber the tops in. Of course, it toes the wheels out as well and that would need to be corrected.
I had a similar tire clearance issue. I used a buddy's Eastwood tool to flatten the upper fender lip, ala GT.
I had a similar tire clearance issue. I used a buddy's Eastwood tool to flatten the upper fender lip, ala GT.
#22
Rennlist Member
You may have a point
If you look closely at the pics, it looks like the edge of the rim is slightly "outside" the fender line. You sure the right rims and tires are in the right places?
#23
Under the Lift
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These are 9" rims. That's 2" wider than stock. So, yes, the rim lip is outside the plane of the wheel well opening, so to that extent the problem is unavoidable with these rims unless you flare the fenders - not recommending that.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I'm wondering if I should consider having someone take apart my three piece fronts and turn them into 8" width fronts from 9. Anyone know a reputable supplier? I found a place called Independent Wheel searching around online.
Question is; Do I need different size Dunlops if I go from 9" to 8"? The Dunlops are 245/40/17.
I don't want to roll my front fenders.
Question is; Do I need different size Dunlops if I go from 9" to 8"? The Dunlops are 245/40/17.
I don't want to roll my front fenders.
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Spoke to Tire Rack and they said my tires will fit 8 inch to 9.5 inch wheels. Also heard back from the wheel parts supplier I found and he says I can swap out the outter lip easily. My assumption was I had to take out a half inch on inside and outside both. If I can just take from outside only, will just taking a half inch be enough or do you guys think I need the full inch? Or do I just stop "fretting" and maybe raise the ride height and be done with it.
#28
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Go drive it a bit. It will settle. When it does, the wheel lip will point straight at the inside lip of the fenderwell, and it will look fine. Unless there's interference/rubbing, no reason to worry. If there's just a mild interference/rub, consider rolling the fender lip slightly before you go through the time and expense of replacing the wheel halves.
If you do end up fitting narrower wheel pieces, put a straightedge against the existing wheel/tire up to the fender lip so you have a reference more accurate than the uncalibrated eyeball. The straightedge will tell you where the lip/tire are now. Remember that narrowing the outside rim half by an inch moves the rim lip in by that same one inch relative to the fender, but the tire tread will only shift in by half that much.
If you do end up fitting narrower wheel pieces, put a straightedge against the existing wheel/tire up to the fender lip so you have a reference more accurate than the uncalibrated eyeball. The straightedge will tell you where the lip/tire are now. Remember that narrowing the outside rim half by an inch moves the rim lip in by that same one inch relative to the fender, but the tire tread will only shift in by half that much.
#29
Rennlist Member
If you narrow the wheel, I'd just change the outer lip to one that is 1/2" narrower. NO need to reduce the inner, as there is lots of room there, especially since it looks like your offset is no higher than mid 50's, maybe even 50 or lower. Assuming it is et 50, then decreasing the outer lip by 1/2" will increase it by 6 to et 56 (25.4 times 1/2 divided by 2)
I have 2 piece Sport Design 18's on the front of my '94 - 9" width, et 70. Also, have 18", 8" wide et 52 on the '89 front, both with 255/35 X 18 tires. No issues with the fenders on either.
Gary Knox
I have 2 piece Sport Design 18's on the front of my '94 - 9" width, et 70. Also, have 18", 8" wide et 52 on the '89 front, both with 255/35 X 18 tires. No issues with the fenders on either.
Gary Knox
Last edited by Gary Knox; 03-25-2012 at 03:39 PM.
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
If you narrow the wheel, I'd just change the outer lip to one that is 1/2" narrower. NO need to reduce the inner, as there is lots of room there, especially since it looks like your offset is no higher than mid 50's, maybe even 50 or lower. Assuming it is et 50, then decreasing the outer lip by 1/2" will increase it by 6 to et 56 (25.4 times 1/2 divided by 2)
I have 2 piece Sport Design 18's on the front of my '94 - 9" width, et 70. Also, have 18", 8" wide et 52 on the '89 front, both with 255/35 X 18 tires. No issues with the fenders on either.
Gary Knox
I have 2 piece Sport Design 18's on the front of my '94 - 9" width, et 70. Also, have 18", 8" wide et 52 on the '89 front, both with 255/35 X 18 tires. No issues with the fenders on either.
Gary Knox
Thanks Gary. (All),
Here's the reply from the supplier of the parts I would need. His previous email advised I could not just change the outter because there is no thinner outter available. Regarding the email below; I'm not sure I fully understand what sandwiched and non sandwiched means. Can anyone help explain better? I'm inclined to make the swap to an 8.5" set up once I have an idea of the cost of the work to do the swap over and above the cost of the parts - which are reasonable IMHO. I do not know my offsets, but I'm guessing they are NOT ideal 928 offsets.
I've also enclosed pictures of the gap between fender and tire. I think I'm too close. Yes, I know I could raise the car. That's still an option but frankly I like the low ride height aesthetically.
You can use used Kinesis 7" inners. If you left the center as is (not sandwiched), the wheel would be at the same plane as it is now, and you'd have an 8" wheel. If you sandwiched the center, your wheel would be 5mm inward from where it is now, and you'd have an 8.5" front. The good news is, you could keep your current front tires, they would still fit, especially if you sandwiched the center. If it were me, I would sandwich the center and go with a 7" inner, 8.5" front. I don't have any 6.5" inners available.