vanster

The drama of putting a new clutch in is almost over.
Last night I installed the starter, slave, bolted the exhaust back together, put the car back down on the ground, first time I depressed the clutch it went to the floor, then a few pumps and it feels fine
Turn the key, it felt like the starter engaged and now it just clicks.
I took a plug out and tried turning the engine over by hand and
it will not budge.
Battery has full charge.

I live on a hill and I could roll down and bump start it but
if it doesn't start then getting back up the hill will be a challenge

Thoughts?

Van

dfrhodes

Have you removed the starter and tested it on the bench yet?

or are you assuming the pressure plate is not disengaging? roll starting it with a possibly frozen clutch doesn't sound wise to me.

dave r.

vanster

When I had the starter out I had it bench tested and I agree about bump starting.
Ok with my 67 Alpine. The fact that the engine won't turn over spooks me

928 at last

I hate to say this, but, you're probably at least going to have to drop the starter, check by hand, rinse and repeat until you either find the problem or you're back to having everything apart again.
Personally, I would get the rear whells off the ground (Safe and very secure) and try it.
If it turns and maybe starts, then you know it's in the driveline at least.

928 at last

Make that wheels please.

Mrmerlin

I would remove the bell housing and inspect the pressure plate bolts, and the drive
shaft clamping bolts ,
see if one of them is hitting the guide tube or surrounding areas, also make sure the rear pinchbolt is tight at the transaxle.

NOTE forcing the engine to turn if its jammed will result in additional damage

dfrhodes

yeah, hopefully it's just the starter that is jammed. of course turning the crank by hand is much more difficult with the clutch disengaged, in gear.. and wheels on the ground

vanster

Could I have the wires on the starter back on incorrectly.
I hate to say this but Merlin might be on to something. Taking the lower bell housing off with the MSDS headers is a real treat.

vanster

I got real cocky and put the car back on the ground last night. Up she goes!!!!
Oh lord, won't you buy me a lift!

Mrmerlin

also inspect the clutch push rod make sure its seated into the release arm before you take anything apart ,
it could be as simple as RnR the slave cylinder

vanster

The clutch does not seem as heavy as the previous one. I check this out.
I want the find the engineer at Porsche that put that allen bolt on the top side of the starter. Porsche must have a tool for that bugger

fbarnhill

She (that top bolt) is a lot of fun. I had to buy a new starter after rebuilding my engine. It worked fine with the old engine, even started it up with bent valves. I drove the car into the garage before pulling the old engine. Once I got the thing back together and back ino the body, I couldn't wait to hear it run. Hit the switch and, click, click, click ... I had charged the battery the night before so I new it wasn't the battery. New starter from Roger solved that particular issue. One more thing, I can't believe you didn't need to bleed your clutch system after the chutch r&r. I have never seen one that didn't need it.

vanster

I didn't figure I needed to bleed the clutch because I just moved it aside when I took off the bell housing.
The one thing that spooks me and sticks in the back of my mind is when I had the flywheel surfaced it is now 0.5mm thinner than the specs call for. (27.5 vs 27.0mm)
When I put the bell housing back on it appeared to be really close to the starter ring.
Tomorrow I will do as Merlin suggest and look at the slave, and start from there.
Maybe I am over thinking this. Time for an adult beverage

smiffypr

Looking at the diagram and imagining where things would be with the extra thin flywheel: Ring gear could be jammed on the starter housing, or the release arm could be jamming on the clutch housing. There will be a good reason for the minimum flywheel thickness.

Mike Frye

This sounds right.

FIFY

What was the reasoning behind putting a flywheel back in there that's out of spec?

Also, you said you pulled one plug and tried turning it over. I would pull all of them to eliminate compression as a complication. Then get up under there and make sure the slave cyl rod is seated. If you still can't rotate the engine by hand at the crank try removing the slave.

If at that point the engine won't budge with very minor pressure at the crank bolt (1/2 inch rachet with no more than 18" breaker bar and one hand pulling) it's time to start pulling the bell housing and other parts until you find the binder.