Alternative O2 Sensor?
#16
Race Car
3-wire Bosch narrowband O2 sensors are all the SAME except for wire length and connector end. If you splice one properly, there will be no difference. You can get a mustang O2 sensor for ~$40 and change the connector. The key is doing the splicing properly, and don't solder the wires.
The only way you can replace a narrowband sensor with a wideband is if you use the wideband's narrowband simulation mode to send a narrowband signal to the LH ECU. There are various successes/failures using emulation, so usually a wideband sensor is installed in addition to a narrowband so you can have both.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
The only way you can replace a narrowband sensor with a wideband is if you use the wideband's narrowband simulation mode to send a narrowband signal to the LH ECU. There are various successes/failures using emulation, so usually a wideband sensor is installed in addition to a narrowband so you can have both.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#18
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=5132
APWI Part # AP347 Direct Fit; Before Converter (Upstream) (Only 2 Remaining) $48.79
APWI Part # AP347 Direct Fit; Before Converter (Upstream) (Only 2 Remaining) $48.79
#19
Rennlist Member
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=5132
APWI Part # AP347 Direct Fit; Before Converter (Upstream) (Only 2 Remaining) $48.79
APWI Part # AP347 Direct Fit; Before Converter (Upstream) (Only 2 Remaining) $48.79
Jerry Feather
#20
I've also had too many doing goofy stuff when spliced in and am not a fan of doing it that way.
I did do it on Irish Legends car last weekend though, and as I explained to him, it is not the right way to do it and if it starts to run oddly, that will be the reason why.
#21
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
I have a single wire O2 on mine, from an '87 V6 Camaro. $40 at the locat parts store. Takes a little longer to warm up (30sec or so) after that it's as good as heated one. Had it on there for 6 years.
#22
Rennlist Member
Different connectors.
I've also had too many doing goofy stuff when spliced in and am not a fan of doing it that way.
I did do it on Irish Legends car last weekend though, and as I explained to him, it is not the right way to do it and if it starts to run oddly, that will be the reason why.
I've also had too many doing goofy stuff when spliced in and am not a fan of doing it that way.
I did do it on Irish Legends car last weekend though, and as I explained to him, it is not the right way to do it and if it starts to run oddly, that will be the reason why.
#23
Rennlist Member
3-wire Bosch narrowband O2 sensors are all the SAME except for wire length and connector end. If you splice one properly, there will be no difference. You can get a mustang O2 sensor for ~$40 and change the connector. The key is doing the splicing properly, and don't solder the wires.
The only way you can replace a narrowband sensor with a wideband is if you use the wideband's narrowband simulation mode to send a narrowband signal to the LH ECU. There are various successes/failures using emulation, so usually a wideband sensor is installed in addition to a narrowband so you can have both.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
The only way you can replace a narrowband sensor with a wideband is if you use the wideband's narrowband simulation mode to send a narrowband signal to the LH ECU. There are various successes/failures using emulation, so usually a wideband sensor is installed in addition to a narrowband so you can have both.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#24
Soldering will cause early sensor failure according to Bosch.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/Techni...allGDWEB09.pdf
http://www.boschautoparts.com/Techni...allGDWEB09.pdf
#25
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
There is some wacked out theory on oxygen molecules traveling in the wire and soldering stops this, but I can't picture how this can be true.
#27
You have to re-route it. I pull it back through the hole in the heat shield and route it a bit better on the passenger side. If there is extra wire, tie it up away from the X-pipe. You don't want it melting the wires and shorting, you not only loose O2 functionality, but the fuel pump also.
#28
Race Car
It doesn't make intuitive sense to me, but I have heard that O2 sensors need to have air flow through the wire sheaths and that soldering the wires and using heat-shrink tubing would "seal" the insulation from outside air. Bosch also says that soldering the wires will cause early O2 sensor failure. Is it really true? Who knows...
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#29
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Mine's been soldered for 50k+ miles. Due for replacement soon just on mileage, but still works great.
I've read the Bosch warnings about soldering, but I think their reasoning is less than scientific. The much more likely reason is that there's no tolerance for a poor/cold joint. The connection must be --completely-- mechanically and electrically sound before solder is applied (should be for all soldered connections...)
I've read the Bosch warnings about soldering, but I think their reasoning is less than scientific. The much more likely reason is that there's no tolerance for a poor/cold joint. The connection must be --completely-- mechanically and electrically sound before solder is applied (should be for all soldered connections...)
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Joel - If you happen to read this before you install it, could you please measure the length of the wires and post it here? Becuase of where my x-pipe's bung hole is, I need a sensor with a little longer wire than what I currently have. And, my check engine light came on last week... Thanks / Bruce
Thanks to everyone for the info. I decided to go with the stock part and call it a day I'll get around to installing it this weekend... if my better half doesnt have me off doing something else
Joel