Another NOX failure
#16
I usuallly make sure all my Vacuum leakers are closed, ie: Heaters/AC off and vents on closed position. I also buy the Autoshop pass test in a bottle you add to gas. Then Italian Tune up. It is just such a hassle when you don't pass, I like to up the odds before test.
#18
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Bill-
The system is in closed-loop operation during both of the rolling tests. so the oxy sensor is 'correcting' for weak MAF and for minor vacuum leaks during the test. With that consideration, the sensor reads the combined CO mixtures from all the cylinders. So one or two weak/lean/poor combustion cylinders aren't enough to move the average CO the sensor sees enough to cure those cylinders.
Recommendation:
-- Find and fix any obvious vacuum leaks. If there are HVAC leaks, pinch the hose to the system from the splitter or pull it off and cap the splitter.
-- Put a new set of plugs in. New plugs have a better chance of igniting a slightly weak mixture.
After that, oil pooling in the intake belly can be carried into the chambers, but it's a long shot at the low speeds. The "Italian Tune-up" will clear the pooled oil, but at the same time is likely to add some back. So do a -good- one.
Similar Experience--
My car passed with flying colors when I bought it (22k miles or so) then NOx was getting gradually worse as the years went by. I'm a religious user of good gas, and I dump a couple bottle of Techron in the tank at each fill-up before and during any extended trips when fuel flow will be highest. Got to a point where, right on the edge of passing and with numbers similar to those you share, I talked the tester (former 928 owner, BTW) into doing the rolling tests in second gear. It was enough better to pass, but I couldn't depend on that tester being available forever. Others here have reported that their tester didn't want to do that for them.
---
A year ago, intake refresh included new injectors. Fords from BlueOval. Car seemed to run great before the change, but it is definitely smoother at idle with new nozzles, and an occasional miss/burble at idle is now gone. Bonus is that the NOx numbers are back to what they were when I bought the car almost 15 years ago now. Miracle? No. The intake refresh may have solved some unnoticed vacuum issues, so I can't lay it all on the new injectors.
Another data point: Luan in San Diego had similar NOX issues, and had a local shop do the three-part BG intake and injector cleaning routine to his car. His numbers improved a lot, and he was able to easily pass after the treatment. IIRC he spent in the $100-150 range for that process.
I've adapted a H-F injection cleaning canister and regulator with the pieces needed to use on the 928 fuel rails to force-clean the injectors. I used it for James M's '85 Euro project here and it smoothed that out a lot. I haven't messed with the intake spray bar piece enough to say that it's ready for prime-time yet. The BG chems are on ebay regularly, and I'd be happy to box the canister and connectors/hoses if you'd like to try a DIY injector cleaning yourself up there.
The system is in closed-loop operation during both of the rolling tests. so the oxy sensor is 'correcting' for weak MAF and for minor vacuum leaks during the test. With that consideration, the sensor reads the combined CO mixtures from all the cylinders. So one or two weak/lean/poor combustion cylinders aren't enough to move the average CO the sensor sees enough to cure those cylinders.
Recommendation:
-- Find and fix any obvious vacuum leaks. If there are HVAC leaks, pinch the hose to the system from the splitter or pull it off and cap the splitter.
-- Put a new set of plugs in. New plugs have a better chance of igniting a slightly weak mixture.
After that, oil pooling in the intake belly can be carried into the chambers, but it's a long shot at the low speeds. The "Italian Tune-up" will clear the pooled oil, but at the same time is likely to add some back. So do a -good- one.
Similar Experience--
My car passed with flying colors when I bought it (22k miles or so) then NOx was getting gradually worse as the years went by. I'm a religious user of good gas, and I dump a couple bottle of Techron in the tank at each fill-up before and during any extended trips when fuel flow will be highest. Got to a point where, right on the edge of passing and with numbers similar to those you share, I talked the tester (former 928 owner, BTW) into doing the rolling tests in second gear. It was enough better to pass, but I couldn't depend on that tester being available forever. Others here have reported that their tester didn't want to do that for them.
---
A year ago, intake refresh included new injectors. Fords from BlueOval. Car seemed to run great before the change, but it is definitely smoother at idle with new nozzles, and an occasional miss/burble at idle is now gone. Bonus is that the NOx numbers are back to what they were when I bought the car almost 15 years ago now. Miracle? No. The intake refresh may have solved some unnoticed vacuum issues, so I can't lay it all on the new injectors.
Another data point: Luan in San Diego had similar NOX issues, and had a local shop do the three-part BG intake and injector cleaning routine to his car. His numbers improved a lot, and he was able to easily pass after the treatment. IIRC he spent in the $100-150 range for that process.
I've adapted a H-F injection cleaning canister and regulator with the pieces needed to use on the 928 fuel rails to force-clean the injectors. I used it for James M's '85 Euro project here and it smoothed that out a lot. I haven't messed with the intake spray bar piece enough to say that it's ready for prime-time yet. The BG chems are on ebay regularly, and I'd be happy to box the canister and connectors/hoses if you'd like to try a DIY injector cleaning yourself up there.
#19
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Bill,
I've been through this twice over the years in Houston (before my car turned 24) and both times I eventually passed. The only things I did were O2 replacement, get the car real hot before the test, and keep the RPMs up during the test (kept it in 2nd).
I've been through this twice over the years in Houston (before my car turned 24) and both times I eventually passed. The only things I did were O2 replacement, get the car real hot before the test, and keep the RPMs up during the test (kept it in 2nd).
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It's getting tough here in Houston to find a shop that will still do the test and tougher yet to find one competent enough not to destroy the car putting it on the rollers!
I'm now in the same boat, having just failed my first test (high HC and NOx) that I had hoped would be my last. Previously, my S4 has passed with flying colors even without cats. But, the car has been sitting for months as I have been ill.
Seems to run just fine, but added some Sea Foam and will be checking vac leaks, spark plugs and o2 sensor. Will put the cat back on if necessary, but I'm enjoying the Italian tune ups in the mean time!
I'm now in the same boat, having just failed my first test (high HC and NOx) that I had hoped would be my last. Previously, my S4 has passed with flying colors even without cats. But, the car has been sitting for months as I have been ill.
Seems to run just fine, but added some Sea Foam and will be checking vac leaks, spark plugs and o2 sensor. Will put the cat back on if necessary, but I'm enjoying the Italian tune ups in the mean time!
#21
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In the UK they have recently introduced a tailpipe measurement of lambda at the tailpipe for cars registered after '93 (these are cars fitted with cats). These 928s always show weak on lambda even when everything is OK. The problem is the airpump pushing air into the exhaust that fools the tailpipe measurement. They pass OK if you remove the vacuum pipe to the airpump BOV and cap the loose pipe.
about fuel mixture as well.
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Dr. Bob: Thanks for the review and suggestion. If I get a clue from compression testing that carbon is an issue I may go for the BG, but time is of the essence - the buyer is anxious (the seller is anxious too), so i may just take it to a local shop in the few days I have to resolve this.
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Jim: I appreciate that insight. I wasn't sure, but I thought the O2 was high. Moves vac leak higher up the list.
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Thank you, Wally. I had noticed the HC and CO were quite good, so that ruled out quite a few things right there. I understood that generally high NOX indicates a lean condition and I had planned to go that direction, just needed some thoughts on what to check/repair/replace first.
#27
Bill:
Do not rule out exhaust leaks in front of the cat(s) or part of the air injection system, check valve after the air pump ?
Soapy water can be useful before things get real hot (warmed up)... all assuming you can have the car up on your lift while the engine is running.
Best wishes on the sleuth.
Do not rule out exhaust leaks in front of the cat(s) or part of the air injection system, check valve after the air pump ?
Soapy water can be useful before things get real hot (warmed up)... all assuming you can have the car up on your lift while the engine is running.
Best wishes on the sleuth.
#28
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I see a small percentage of O2. Last time I had that, I had an exhaust leak after the cats due to a loose pipe clamp.
The fact that hydrocarbons are so low on those readings tells me the cats are working. Like the other guys have said:
-MAF swap or replacement
-O2 sensor (couldn't hurt)
-Fuel injectors (replace them with Ford Racing orange tops for cheap Part No. M-9593-C302 *part may have -01 at the end*) Don't forget Roger's O-rings!
Best price I have found for them below..
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...1=M9593C302+01
On a side note, these are single pintles, which are discontinued. I figure since he is selling the car, these will do just fine for stock replacement.
The fact that hydrocarbons are so low on those readings tells me the cats are working. Like the other guys have said:
-MAF swap or replacement
-O2 sensor (couldn't hurt)
-Fuel injectors (replace them with Ford Racing orange tops for cheap Part No. M-9593-C302 *part may have -01 at the end*) Don't forget Roger's O-rings!
Best price I have found for them below..
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...1=M9593C302+01
On a side note, these are single pintles, which are discontinued. I figure since he is selling the car, these will do just fine for stock replacement.
#29
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Bill:
Do not rule out exhaust leaks in front of the cat(s) or part of the air injection system, check valve after the air pump ?
Soapy water can be useful before things get real hot (warmed up)... all assuming you can have the car up on your lift while the engine is running.
Best wishes on the sleuth.
Do not rule out exhaust leaks in front of the cat(s) or part of the air injection system, check valve after the air pump ?
Soapy water can be useful before things get real hot (warmed up)... all assuming you can have the car up on your lift while the engine is running.
Best wishes on the sleuth.
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