So i have all the parts i need to resemble my cam towers. are there any special tricks or just

lube up cam and install
install rear plate
install spacers on cam
install end covers
then gears.....

 

Ducman. Make very sure the came box is totaly dry and clean on the surface and also the cyl head. Any oil that gets on the gasket will cause the gasket to slip out of the joint when the oil pressure builds up when the engine is running. I know this from experiance. Also make sure there isn't any oil in the cam box when you install it as that could run down onto the gasket when you install it. Put every thing on dry! Also put grease on the lifters to keep them in position as you lower the cam box in place. Takes three hands to hold everything in place while you get a couple of the bolts lined up and started. good luck

 

I believe I saw a trick here on RL once where the poster used zip ties to hold in the lifters and then once the cam housing was in place they snipped them and pulled them out from between the head and the cam box.

Disclaimer: I have not done this. I just saw it and it seemed like one heck of an idea.

 

i was just planning on using some assembly lube on the cam and lifters to hold them in.

 

Using the grease woks verry well and also prevents dry start up. Each his own.

 

Assembly lub is too thin. I use mobil 1 molly as it stiff enough to hold against gravity. Ues alot of it but be sure not to get any on the gasket.

 

i have redline assembly lube and mobile one bearing grease too. plenty to choose from. might try that zip tie idea.... sounds fun!

 

when i look at the numbers on the cams, and check the WSM, i can't figure what set i have. i know they are euro, but not sure what ones. i need to send the cams out to be cleaned (stored wrong and have surface residue) before install

 

Engine in or out?

I'll tip the engine on the stand so the cam towers go on horizontally. Being quick and flipping it help.

That back cover cork gasket should go on with a coating of your favorite gasket sealant. Yammabond. High temp RTV silicone. It's prone to leaking.

I use Redline assembly lube on the cam bearings and journals. And the holes and lifters.

Snug the bolts down in a pattern so one isn't clamping the whole thing down. Be patient putting the upper bolts in as if you drop a bolt or washer you're taking it off. (BTDT!)

 

engine out. thanks!

 

It looks like they say 211 & 212 if so their from 85 euro they are the best ones !

 

I'm looking for a pict of my old cam ends to compare. This picture is of a 1980 factory cam that was welded and reground by WEB. The lower stamp is I think the only factory marking.

187/8 is Euro S 80/83
211/2 is Euro S 84/86

Weird yours have both.

 

That's what's throwing me off....

 

I need to go through and tag my picture collection, instead of a couple huge folders with a thousand or so in each. I found the pictures of my WEB cam, and I think I have some others as well, but didn't find them.

Early or late Euro S cams aren't that different, and yours match, so I would say don't worry and get the engine together. What do the side of the lobes look like, mine I can see the weld line.

 

211-212 is the uber-rare LH Euro S cams.....should be an instant 40whp bump!!!