go to sears or the snapon tool truck to buy this tool.
This isnt a place for cheap tools.

If the elex gun doesnt loosen the bolt then stop and get an air impact gun,
Seriously you dont want to mess up the bolt splines

 

Most local auto parts places sell the Powerbilt line of tools, for about $10 they sell a 3pack that includes a 12call mm XZN(triple square) I ended up dremeling the bit in half so it was short enough to turn with a 1/2" socket on a breaker bar. With the TT out you can fit a regular impct wrench to get them out.

 

That's not what I understand. Is that in the WSM? I don't see it and I was told specifically by someone who should know (one of the original Big 3) they are resusable.

Oh, I see now, Greg covered it. Nevermind.

 

That's what I did as well. Make sure they are well seated.

 

I got the idea from you, Bill. I have in my mind a pic of the cut down socket in a flywheel bolt, but I can't find it in my pictures, so it must be in one of your posts...

 

Flywheel bolts and the tools to remove them have been covered before. Most-recently (IIRC) here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ool-truck.html

For the seriously lazy, here's the 1-click-buy link (to a DIY-priced set):

http://www.toolsource.com/metric-tri...t-p-94285.html

The next question will be: how do I get the pilot bearing out.

Here's a pic of the tool you need:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ut-update.html

If you spend a little more time searching than I did you can probably find a thread with a link to a store.

Or 10-seconds with google (pilot bearing puller):

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-p...ller-4876.html

(Although that one is a 3-jaw puller and looks like it will work, I've never used that kind. I have the more-expensive (perhaps not any better) two-jaw version.)

 

While everyone's thinking about flywheels:

What's the over-under opinion on resurfacing the flywheel if the friction disc is almost-new? (Long story involving s previous (technician's?) clutch job that included only a new disc and nothing else.)

I'm thinking go ahead and resurface. It won't be a perfect fit, friction-wise at first, but it will bed-in and then be far better than if the resurfacing wasn't done?

 

Worf what issues are you having with the clutch is the flywheel badly spotted?
has the friction material gotten contaminated?
if the flywheel looks good no hot spots or cracks then I would scuff it with 220 then wipe it down with acetone a few times,
also rinse off the friction disc with brake cleaner lube the splines and put it back together

 

Great minds copy each other.

 

Apologies to the OP for this slight thread derail:

The issue with the clutch is that the throw-out bearing is about to be in two pieces. The shop that touched the clutch on this 928 in '97 replaced only the pressure plate, friction disc and pilot bearing. I'm doing, now, what they should have done: replace the t/o bearing and update the release arm and tube.

The owner(s) since '97 know how to clutch; there's essentially no wear on the disc.

The disc and housing are dry. No RMS leak. The flywheel looks rough. For less time than it would take me to sand and clean it I can drop it off and have it surfaced for $35. I figure having the flywheel surfaced can only make it better even if I reuse the disc. While discs are relatively cheap, I hate throwing away a part that's only seen 5% of its useful life.

 

^^^ Bad idea. If you are reusing the disk, then don't resurface the flywheel. The entire assembly is already worn in and a new surface will make it worse (less surface contact).

 

Okay you can't go to bed yet, I need some eyes on my flywheel and discs in just a few minutes (okay gemme 15 minutes).

Okay two shots of the flywheel, one of pressure plate, and one of each side of the IP.

 

Shaps of the discs, and the stink to hell and when I let them out it rattled like rocks in a can. Now the top ball was loose and in the process of tightening it up but would that cause the rattle? Also the setup was new four years ago minus the flywheel that was resurfaced then.

 

Here's my take. Those disks, the IP and the pressure plate all look fine to me. They are used but not worn out. Doesn't look like the clutch was slipping. Why was it taken apart?

 

Would you even bother to scuff sand them with a 180 grit block, or just put them back in and hope the problem was only the upper ball being finger loose by 1/4 turn?