Flywheel
#1
Flywheel
After removing my clutch and examining the flywheel I see that it is blue in many areas and not all that smooth. Obvious I have to take it out and get it turned. How often does this happen or is this normal when replacing a clutch?
I recall telling Bill Ball how lousy my clutch felt, what I didn't know was that just about everything needed replacing. I thought all 928's shifted this way, even the ball cap is a gonner
Van
I recall telling Bill Ball how lousy my clutch felt, what I didn't know was that just about everything needed replacing. I thought all 928's shifted this way, even the ball cap is a gonner
Van
#4
I figured this and you mentioned it before. I am lucky that we have a very good
local nut and bolt store near by. Most likely because there are so many auto restore shops here in the Bay Area. But I do see a bit of clean up for the flywheel?
What about the bushing, do I need to replace it as well? I could not believe how sloppy the everything in regards to the fork. Must be 1/4" play or more
Can't be normal
local nut and bolt store near by. Most likely because there are so many auto restore shops here in the Bay Area. But I do see a bit of clean up for the flywheel?
What about the bushing, do I need to replace it as well? I could not believe how sloppy the everything in regards to the fork. Must be 1/4" play or more
Can't be normal
#5
I am replacing mine when I go in tonight, so anything that is small assume it is to be replaced at this rate. I am doing the ball cup for the fork also.
Time to order those two parts and 2 bolt sets.
Time to order those two parts and 2 bolt sets.
#6
Take shots of all the parts when you have them out, and post them with accompanying comments on their condition as they seem to you, and we can guide you on what to clean up/replace.
Pull that pilot bearing in the end of the crank and replace that ... it's probably dry and rough.
The bluing/hotspotting on the flywheel is not unusual on a worn clutch, and can be surface ground out as long as is not too deep/severe. Facing of the flywheel is/should be standard procedure when refurbishing a clutch pack.
BTW ... when you have the flywheel off it will give you a good opportunity to look at the rear crank seal and replace it if necessary,
Pull that pilot bearing in the end of the crank and replace that ... it's probably dry and rough.
The bluing/hotspotting on the flywheel is not unusual on a worn clutch, and can be surface ground out as long as is not too deep/severe. Facing of the flywheel is/should be standard procedure when refurbishing a clutch pack.
BTW ... when you have the flywheel off it will give you a good opportunity to look at the rear crank seal and replace it if necessary,
#7
do a search for a thread by Bill Ball on flywheel removal for rear seal replacement he made special tools to remove the flywheel bolts.
the best bet is to use an air gun on the bolts after you have flushed out the heads., once you strip the bolt head you may have to pull the engine or weld a socket to the bolt head
the best bet is to use an air gun on the bolts after you have flushed out the heads., once you strip the bolt head you may have to pull the engine or weld a socket to the bolt head
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#9
do a search for a thread by Bill Ball on flywheel removal for rear seal replacement he made special tools to remove the flywheel bolts.
the best bet is to use an air gun on the bolts after you have flushed out the heads., once you strip the bolt head you may have to pull the engine or weld a socket to the bolt head
the best bet is to use an air gun on the bolts after you have flushed out the heads., once you strip the bolt head you may have to pull the engine or weld a socket to the bolt head
#13
Thorough cleaning of the recess, the correct triple square bit, and an air impact gun worked for me first time. An electric impact gun should work just as well to 'crack' the bolts.
#15