SMTCapeCod

I'm not sure we're helping the O/P much anymore...

Podguy

This thead is great. I am just in the process of assembling the CIS system. Thanks for all the information.

Jadz928

This could help with troubleshooting...

karl ruiter

Something not in the diagram above: There is a secret screen inside the inlet fitting to the FD that can become clogged. Not sure if this is in all cars or not, but it was there on my '80 Euro S system. It is a really good idea to have it there, as there can be crud in the fuel lines after the fuel filter that can become dislodged and this is your only protection against that getting into the FD, but it is not documented anywhere that I have found which can be a source of confusion. Particularly because most folks probably do pump flow tests by disconnecting the rubber lines which are before this screen.

he_mech_usmc

Karl - I did also have that screen mesh in my inlet to the FD and yes, it was clogged as well. That was one of the first areas that I checked.


Thanks,
Josh

he_mech_usmc

ok...who dumped marbles into my engine? J/k, but seriously...it sounds like there are marbles in the engine...don't know if it's because the oil is so cold or what. Tried cranking it over and it sounds horrible...I really am considering not trying again until it warms up... I don't know if it is a predetonation knock or if it's a rod bearing or if the timing is all jacked up by a broken cam. I checked via the oil pressure gauge on the dash...yeah, I know, it's an "idiot gauge", but it was showing what I would consider high average oil pressure during cranking. I also checked the timing via marks on cams and at the distributor all lines up. All I did was clean the above listed components and replace vacuum lines... I hope that this isn't the death of an OB euro... Just looking to get this sorted out next...guess I don't have a choice at this point.

TIA,
Josh

Podguy

If it was a 32 Valve engine I would suggest that the bolt on the cam gear was loose and the cam chain tensioner was flopping around.

I would stop turning the engine over with the starter and turn it by hand. I suspect one or more of the injectors are dunping gas into the cylinders and what you are experiecing is vapor lock. If you continue to try to start it with the starter the extra gas can explode and cause engine damage. When turning by hand make sure the ignition is off. Even turning by hand with with the ignition on - something that should never be done - the engine can catch and kick back. More than one person ended up with broken arms from hand cranking Model Ts.

Since your pressures were off they could cause the injectors to leak down or the cold start injector could be flooding the engine.

he_mech_usmc

Got back at it after a long while going after a lot of other projects. I know there is probably a no no somewhere for reviving a dead thread, but I wanted to let everyone know I have finally made some progress. The marble knock was caused by my bad flywheel. Finally got it out and new one in. Off jack stands, it will now "run" if I leave my foot on the throttle lightly. I still need to get my cis gauges hooked back up and take some readings now that I can actually get the thing to run.

Thanks for the support
Josh

Fogey1

I was dismayed to find the second link dead, BUT, based on,

... it may be that the missing link is:
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/B...chtech-12d.pdf
... which is a Bosch manual entitled "Gasoline Fuel-Injection System K-Jetronic."

I also found this ~20min. video on YouTube, through a google search for "Bosch K-jet manual."

Hope this helps some needy somebody in the future.

he_mech_usmc

Any pros or cons to trying to replace the WUR with a FPR from an 80 euro S? Just really looking for a way to figure out if it really is a WUR issue...I can't use my CIS gauges...the gauge leaks, so I'm trying to do some diag without them. To refresh, it's on a 79 euro with the kjet.

Thanks,
Josh

jpitman2

The WUR changed a couple of times until stabilising on -086 (last 3 digits). From 77 ->06/80 it ends in 036; then to 087, then to 086 in 09/82. The WSM should show slightly different pressure curves for each number. The early ones do not have two vacuum connections, where 086 does. That said, swapping in any of the above units cant do any harm, and might confirm or deny that the WUR is the problem. You might find that there are some areas where the engine doesnt run at its best due to different pressures with the incorrect model, but it might be better than you have now. It is VERY important that you get your gauge working so you know what you are looking for.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k