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CIS help for the CIS illiterate...calling all OB Wan's

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Old 01-13-2012, 01:10 PM
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he_mech_usmc
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Outside temp was approx 33 deg F, today is 24 deg F. I did not get a chance to try cold pressure since I did not have a vacuum pump that works...used it once to clean out my furnace and has not worked right since...I'll go pick another one up and try it...cleaned the WUR last night and put back in, car sounds like it wants to fire and stay running, but no luck yet...only tried a couple of times by cranking, getting back out in a bit when it stops snowing and going to try and take pressure readings again with a clean WUR.

Thanks,
Josh
Old 01-13-2012, 10:10 PM
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Too much snow today, got a couple inches today...bought a canopy enclosure today...put it up tomorrow morning and get back at it.
Old 01-17-2012, 03:19 AM
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Got back at it today. Finally got pissed off and pulled everything with the intention of getting it all "right." Pulled the ENTIRE CIS system out of the car, spider, upper intake, FD, WUR, lower intake with TB...gutted it all the way down to the valley...get everything clean and checked and then back in...those cheap enclosures [$240] really do the job. I don't have a garage at my house so it's been hard to get out and work on the car in the crappy weather we've been having. I guess 3rd times a charm...wait, I think it's the 5th time I've torn down the FD...oh well, I get better at it each time I go for it. And no, it was not leaking after the last rebuild, but I think I may have been a little over zealous in the reassembly by putting it together before the Indian head set up...hoping that I didn't accidentally plug the metering hole. The WUR is free and clean...finally. Looks like I have good flow too, just would rather have the bigger flow pump by a name brand instead of the cheap p.o.s. that I have in it...no telling when or if it will go out. I'll post more of what I find when I get the car back together.

Thanks for the help,
Josh
Old 01-17-2012, 12:21 PM
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steve322s
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fyi on the FD. put the steel gasket in the freezer for a few hours and take it out when you're ready to put the 2 halves together then torque to 52lbs, do not use any sealer or indian head. this way you will be worry free with the metering slot. after having mine apart more than once ive foud this to work great.


Good luck,

steve
Old 01-17-2012, 12:27 PM
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Jadz928
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Originally Posted by steve322s
fyi on the FD. put the steel gasket in the freezer for a few hours and take it out when you're ready to put the 2 halves together then torque to 52lbs, do not use any sealer or indian head. this way you will be worry free with the metering slot. after having mine apart more than once ive foud this to work great.


Good luck,

steve

This is a great idea, Steve! That Indian Head shellac is nasty stuff. Not looking forward to having to go back in and having to deal with that stuff.

PS. Did you get my email from a ways back?
Old 01-17-2012, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Jadz928
This is a great idea, Steve! That Indian Head shellac is nasty stuff. Not looking forward to having to go back in and having to deal with that stuff.

PS. Did you get my email from a ways back?
i did thanks
Old 01-17-2012, 04:39 PM
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he_mech_usmc
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Steve,
Thanks for the input on the FD...how much snow did you get over there this year? When I was younger I lived in Fairhaven.
Old 01-17-2012, 06:05 PM
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karl ruiter
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Plugged metering hole should mean low or zero control pressure.
Old 01-17-2012, 10:37 PM
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GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by steve322s
fyi on the FD. put the steel gasket in the freezer for a few hours and take it out when you're ready to put the 2 halves together then torque to 52lbs, do not use any sealer or indian head. this way you will be worry free with the metering slot. after having mine apart more than once ive foud this to work great.


Good luck,

steve
I stopped taking these things apart about 20 years ago, because I couldn't get them to reseal.

This intriques me. What do you think freezing the plate does to make it seal?

Inch pounds, right?
Old 01-18-2012, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Jadz928
Don't check 'em, chuck 'em. Easy to get out without damage using the right size torx driver.
Jim,

Are you referring to the little plastic screens in the fuel distributor? I pulled them out with needle nose pliers. They were not screwed in. Or are you referring to something else?

Oh does someone have a good source for the CIS injector seals??

Thanks
Old 01-18-2012, 12:37 AM
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Long time since I did mine, but had no trouble getting them. PITA job getting the injectors in them - lubricate well. Also, unless you already have the injectors out - deep 12mm socket over the end, sharp rap on the bar loosened the holder for me. Some have had much trouble here due to corrosion.
A while ago I found on fleabay a 'tool for removing inlet screens in CIS' - bought for a couple of $. Its a round bar, with teeth on the end, basically it just scrapes them out in pieces.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k.
Old 01-18-2012, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Podguy
Jim,

Are you referring to the little plastic screens in the fuel distributor? I pulled them out with needle nose pliers. They were not screwed in. Or are you referring to something else?

Oh does someone have a good source for the CIS injector seals??

Thanks
Yes, the really tiny FD ones. The really tiny fit perfect and worked great!

Roger at 928sRus has the inj. seals for a great price.

Originally Posted by jpitman2
Long time since I did mine, but had no trouble getting them. PITA job getting the injectors in them - lubricate well. Also, unless you already have the injectors out - deep 12mm socket over the end, sharp rap on the bar loosened the holder for me. Some have had much trouble here due to corrosion.
A while ago I found on fleabay a 'tool for removing inlet screens in CIS' - bought for a couple of $. Its a round bar, with teeth on the end, basically it just scrapes them out in pieces.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k.
Another thing to note: the injectors will not pull out easily if they've been in for a while. Best method I found was unscrew them with the seal and cap, spray with silcone, pick off all the loose crusty seal rubber, then screw back in and pull out the injector (with a CIS hook tool).

Last edited by Jadz928; 01-18-2012 at 08:40 AM.
Old 01-18-2012, 08:27 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
I stopped taking these things apart about 20 years ago, because I couldn't get them to reseal.

This intriques me. What do you think freezing the plate does to make it seal?

Inch pounds, right?
Greg, i believe that by freezing it it will shrink just enough that after its assembled it expands and helps to seal. it has worked twice for me and i have no worries about taking one apart anymore. before this i would get seeping.

Yes inch pounds.

Originally Posted by he_mech_usmc
Steve,
Thanks for the input on the FD...how much snow did you get over there this year? When I was younger I lived in Fairhaven.
we have been lucky if we've totaled 3" this year. not good for my snowmobiling but i'm not complaining.
Old 01-18-2012, 02:47 PM
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I used the indian head sheallac technique got lucky the first try. Not sure what would happen if I had to go in there again, though.
Old 01-18-2012, 05:23 PM
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The ferrari400 guy suggests some polishing of the FD halves on a GOOD flat plate on fine wet&dry to help seal them.
I was able to get my injectors out by unscrewing the holder - socket on the end of the injector, sharp rap on the bar. Then I dismantled the injector and seal out of the holder, fitted new seals, assembled into holder, screwed back into runner. No problems.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k


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