My Impulse Buy - 1987 S4
10-03-2011, 11:20 PM
#16
Under the Lift
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To my surprise, the propective buyer comes out and says, "I have to talk to my wife".
Anyway, $2,500 for a running 87 that appears to have decent paint and only moderate wear on the interior, seems like a screaming deal to me. Oh, you may have to get a bit lucky that it doesn't have any serious problems. The variation in compression numbers is a bit high, but I would service it and give it a good ole Italian tune-up out on the nearest vacant interstate. The bores and rings in these cars are very rarely an issue. If the oil on the plugs is from the valve covers, gasket/seal replacement, not the world's easiest task to do right, is on your list. There are a number of quirky things about these cars you will learn by hanging out here, and once you know them and are aware of all the great resources here, you will be ready to take care of them when they happen. It helps to like to do your own work.
I like the color a lot. The dash and pod appear crack-free and the console looks straight/unwarped. Original wheels could be a good sign - an indicator of an unmolested car. The driver seat has bolster wear, perhaps with a hole. That can be repaired/patched/restored easily enough. Remarkably clean and shiny for the money. Protect the interior from the sun if it is still decent. It can warp and crack in a few weeks if not protected. There are lots of things to check in addition to common maintenance items: rack bushings, motor mounts, oil pan gasket, etc. Good luck with it. Let us know if you run into any odd issues.
10-03-2011, 11:22 PM
#17
Rest in Peace
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Nothing like a little competition and the second-chance perception to let loose the impulse buying! The other buyer was probably his neighbor..
Just kidding....you're off to a propitious start, and being willing to roll with it a bit is promising..
As for the shifter "They all do that"...there are ways to improve it given the mileage doing the linkage bushings under the shifter, the coupler by the transaxle, and a little vinyl post-cap that anchors the front of the shift linkage may help....a little.
134K is not bad for an S4..however time and deferred maintenance are the real risk and it is likely that there will be blood and damaged finances in the immediate future.
d
Burning smell..hm...check for debris...mouse nest in intake...while your there (or here on rennlist) research leaks and fires from those aged fuel lines...Could be a drip onto the manifolds/downpipe from heater valve, behind passenger side head...tough to hone in based on information provided though.
Just kidding....you're off to a propitious start, and being willing to roll with it a bit is promising..
As for the shifter "They all do that"...there are ways to improve it given the mileage doing the linkage bushings under the shifter, the coupler by the transaxle, and a little vinyl post-cap that anchors the front of the shift linkage may help....a little.
134K is not bad for an S4..however time and deferred maintenance are the real risk and it is likely that there will be blood and damaged finances in the immediate future.
d
Burning smell..hm...check for debris...mouse nest in intake...while your there (or here on rennlist) research leaks and fires from those aged fuel lines...Could be a drip onto the manifolds/downpipe from heater valve, behind passenger side head...tough to hone in based on information provided though.
I have almost "Some" movement in the shifter less than a 1/4 inch at the top of the shifter, so yea, they all do that.
Even with the standard coupler bushings they are pretty tight when right, but they are loose as crap when wore out.
With the aftermarket bushings in the couplers they are really tight when all the other bushings are replaced.
There is no such thing as a cheap 928.
Send me a PM for my number and I will help you if I can.
10-03-2011, 11:28 PM
#18
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Very nice snag for $2500... With that said, you still could be facing a LOT of work & possible expense so move forward concentrating on mechanicals first. Your ahead of the game since it sounds like you know how to turn a wrench - thats a huge part of the battle. People on here can help you with the diagnosis and possible repairs needed, parts, etc. Do a lot of searching & reading thread topics on the "list" and you'll see the value of this place. Congratulations once again on a nice car. Good luck with your adventure in the 928 experience - in the end it is worth it!!! 
Not afraid of engine work. Now, with regard to expense, I'll approach that in stages as I have 2 kids in college right now (the older one will finish up next summer), so available funds aren't that plentiful currently. I'm looking at this one as a long term project. My biggest concern is having a place to work on it as I've already got 2 cars in the garage and the wife wouldn't be happy if I made her park outside.
10-03-2011, 11:34 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
I cant believe that 10 people posted in the time it took me to reply one paragraph... WOW! You guys can TYPE!!! 
10-03-2011, 11:34 PM
#21
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$2500, blimey, a steal as others have said. Your gearbox is nearly worth that alone ...
As for the interior, I hope you fair better than I, after less than a year it had to go and that started the path down the slippery slope.
Lots of good advice here, once you have read the relevant info, make a todo and parts list. Work your way through it and you will have a great car, do it right and you might even end up with a car worth more than you have in it !
As for the interior, I hope you fair better than I, after less than a year it had to go and that started the path down the slippery slope.
Lots of good advice here, once you have read the relevant info, make a todo and parts list. Work your way through it and you will have a great car, do it right and you might even end up with a car worth more than you have in it !
10-03-2011, 11:35 PM
#22
Race Car
Dude-that is a steal for a 5 speed in decent shape S4...you may have to put in $5000 in parts (and your own sweat) or $8000-10000 with labor-but you will be ahead of most folks and have a rocking ride!
10-03-2011, 11:36 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Three spark plug tubes on the driver's side had oil in them and surely seeped into the combustion chamber when I removed the plugs, hence the higher compression readings.
and the 5 speed shifter is horrible sloppy. Its near impossible to determine what gear you are in.
I know a timing belt & water pump change is in the near future.
One last thing, I still think something may be wrong because as I mentioned earlier, something underneath the car is getting really hot and the exhaust stinks (not like rotten eggs). Any help would be greatly appreciated.
and the 5 speed shifter is horrible sloppy. Its near impossible to determine what gear you are in.
I know a timing belt & water pump change is in the near future.
One last thing, I still think something may be wrong because as I mentioned earlier, something underneath the car is getting really hot and the exhaust stinks (not like rotten eggs). Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Nice looking car, hope it really was a 'steal' as a good price on a 928 may not always a good deal. It sounds like the car needs substantial work; be aware it is quite possible (likely) to put much more money into this car then you will ever get back. Since you can do the work yourself you will save a lot of money, though some parts can be expensive. These cars are not that difficult to work on but aren't for the average Joe mechanic.
The oil in the plug recess is caused by a leaking seal which is replaceable with the cam covers removed. Quite possible you have a leak from the cover gasket too, check underneath the motor and look for it. Oil in the plug galley won't affect combustion, but should be remediated as it it just a matter of time before they all leak.
The 5 speeds are notorious for having sloppy linkage. I have an AT but there are plenty of threads here with solutions to the problem. Search is your friend, just about every possible issue has been discussed before.
DON'T drive the car till the belt/water pump service is done. A broken belt leads to bent valves which lead to many more $$ than you paid for the car.
The smell under the car is the most worrysome to me. You didn't mention how the car is running. If it feels like it is running on 4 cylinders it probably is, which can lead to a fire when the raw fuel passes through the hot cat.
If it is running ok then not an issue. Should be checked out right away as it doesn't sound good (unless there is a dead animal or body down there)...
It's too late for a pre-purchase PPI but you might consider one anyway since you aren't that familar with the car. Another very important item to
do is release the flex plate tension and measure the crankshaft end play; though the 5 speeds are much less prone to having this happen. Worth it to check for peace of mind knowing your motor will be in it for the long haul like these engines are quite capable of doing.
It will take work to get all those items (and others you will likely find) fixed. They're worth all the trouble when you're behind the wheel...
10-03-2011, 11:37 PM
#24
Team Owner
Nice score Daniel.
I would before you run the engine any more jack it up put on jack stands there are 4 pads where the stands go under the rocker panels.
Open the CE panel cover and disconnect the O2 sensor wires and push them through the body.
Then drop the exhaust system from the manifolds to the rear muffler,
then drop the center and rear heat shields,
Then examine the top of the heat shield above the cats if your smelling burning then there is a good chance there is a nest of some sort on the top of the heat shields.
Also examine the foam rubber protection around the shifter area, the critters like to eat the foam
With the heatshields out of the way you can now replace the front shifter ball cup and also replace the rear shifter coupler
I would before you run the engine any more jack it up put on jack stands there are 4 pads where the stands go under the rocker panels.
Open the CE panel cover and disconnect the O2 sensor wires and push them through the body.
Then drop the exhaust system from the manifolds to the rear muffler,
then drop the center and rear heat shields,
Then examine the top of the heat shield above the cats if your smelling burning then there is a good chance there is a nest of some sort on the top of the heat shields.
Also examine the foam rubber protection around the shifter area, the critters like to eat the foam
With the heatshields out of the way you can now replace the front shifter ball cup and also replace the rear shifter coupler
10-03-2011, 11:38 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
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I think it is mentioned in a previous post, but check the trans fluid lines under the car and above the cats. Make sure there is not a leak, where that Trans. mission fluid is dripping down onto the hot cats.
(These lines run from the tranny (from the rear) up to the front radiator)
This could be your burning smell.
(These lines run from the tranny (from the rear) up to the front radiator)
This could be your burning smell.
10-03-2011, 11:43 PM
#26
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I think it is mentioned in a previous post, but check the trans fluid lines under the car and above the cats. Make sure there is not a leak, where that Trans. mission fluid is dripping down onto the hot cats.
(These lines run from the tranny (from the rear) up to the front radiator)
This could be your burning smell.
(These lines run from the tranny (from the rear) up to the front radiator)
This could be your burning smell.
10-04-2011, 12:01 AM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Very nice start - picking up a 5-speed S4 for that little money gives you a lot of wiggle room before you're under-water in the car.
With a verified timing belt job, the car is probably worth around 6.5k+, in its current condition.
Making sure the car runs safely and properly is your first order of business.. so your first few searches on these forums should be:
1. Fuel line replacement kit
2. Timing Belt and Water Pump job (TBWP)
3. Distributor rotors/caps and plug wires and Bosch WR7DC+ spark plugs
4. Check wear items like pads/discs/rotors and replace all fluids (diff, PS, brake etc.)
5. Intake refresh
6. Engine/motor mounts and oil pan gasket (MMOPG)
I wouldn't drive the car again until you've done at least 1 and 2. After 4 it'll make a reliable daily driver.
The intake refresh will restore the missing ponies (its pretty much a given that at least one of your knock sensors is broken after 24 years, which causes the ECU to run retarded all the time), and fix the plug seal leaks etc.
It sounds like you do your own work based on the compression test, which means you're the kind of owner this particular car needs. If you were paying for labour to do the above you'd be losing money fast (which is ok if you're prepared to for the fun of driving a 928).
Doing it yourself, you can actually end up with a car that is still worth more than you're into it for after the above jobs! (and there really aren't many people on this forum who can say that!)
With a verified timing belt job, the car is probably worth around 6.5k+, in its current condition.
Making sure the car runs safely and properly is your first order of business.. so your first few searches on these forums should be:
1. Fuel line replacement kit
2. Timing Belt and Water Pump job (TBWP)
3. Distributor rotors/caps and plug wires and Bosch WR7DC+ spark plugs
4. Check wear items like pads/discs/rotors and replace all fluids (diff, PS, brake etc.)
5. Intake refresh
6. Engine/motor mounts and oil pan gasket (MMOPG)
I wouldn't drive the car again until you've done at least 1 and 2. After 4 it'll make a reliable daily driver.
The intake refresh will restore the missing ponies (its pretty much a given that at least one of your knock sensors is broken after 24 years, which causes the ECU to run retarded all the time), and fix the plug seal leaks etc.
It sounds like you do your own work based on the compression test, which means you're the kind of owner this particular car needs. If you were paying for labour to do the above you'd be losing money fast (which is ok if you're prepared to for the fun of driving a 928).
Doing it yourself, you can actually end up with a car that is still worth more than you're into it for after the above jobs! (and there really aren't many people on this forum who can say that!)
10-04-2011, 12:34 AM
#30
Rennlist Member
If it is getting hot underneath you might thing about just checking your plug wires carefully. I had a plug wire issue that resulted in a lot of misfires. As a result the fuel for that cyl went down into the cat unburnt, where the cat burned it, generating a lot of heat.
Also, if you have oil in your plug wells that is from the inner cam cover gasekets leaking. It would be no suprise that the outer ones were leaking as well. This will drip a little bit of oil down on the exhaust makeing a buring oil smell. Not dangerious unless there is enough oil to catch fire.
Also, if you have oil in your plug wells that is from the inner cam cover gasekets leaking. It would be no suprise that the outer ones were leaking as well. This will drip a little bit of oil down on the exhaust makeing a buring oil smell. Not dangerious unless there is enough oil to catch fire.