Bill Ball

You'd be surprised how little 218 ft-lbs is. Should be easy, BUT whatever gorilla did Nicole's timing belt before we did a couple of years ago must have put about 600 ft-lb on it. Yes, 3/4" drive or bigger and 4+ foot pipe is needed if this bolt has been overtorqued. Harbor Freight sells an affordable 3/4" drive ratchet/socket set. Add 4' of 1" ID pipe and you should ready for this and the rear axle bolt. The S4 fan shroud is in the way for getting to the crank bolt, but the HF ratchet and short extension will fit after that is removed. Make sure the flywheel lock is very well seated so it doesn't slip and wreck any teeth. It held on Nicole's car.

M. Requin

[BROKEN RECORD]With the right tool this is so easy it's embarrassing. Go to your local tractor or big truck maintenance place and offer a big deposit to borrow a torque multiplier, at least 4:1. It will make the job no more difficult than removing a wheel nut. I don't know why more don't own this thing (other than its price of course. And I'm speaking of US made- HF and others have cheapies I would not necessarily trust, although YMMV). Blade bolts on my rotary cutter are tightened at >700 foot-pounds, translated to a manageable 175+ with said tool. [\BROKEN RECORD]

Adamant1971

We have princess auto here in canada. They gave two torque multipliers.

http://princessauto.mobi/index.php?option=items&task=search&q=Torque+multiplier&btn=Search

chrly924s

I just took mine off Tuesday to do a WP/TB. The guy before me used a BF pipewrench to get it off last time. I have a pipe wrench that size that my grandfather used to work on mining equipment back in the the 30's.

Imo000

They sell a 1/2" breaker bar too for around $10 and they are very robust.



The starter method didn't work for me, it was on tighter than the torque of the starter.

928porschepatrick

what a hell of a job, this is how i did mine. drilling a hole in the middle. It was a bit risky, but i had no other option. after that it came off whit a normal socket driver

Bill Ball

Patrick: Wow! Nicole's had me worried at first, but it came free at about 600 ft lbs. Some have jacked the car up enough to use the weight of the car on a monster breaker to get it free.

SeanR

Everyone should have one of these. 1"'er.

I stole it from Roger so no idea where he got it.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Wow, Patrick! How does the hole work? Is it the heat of drilling, or is the bolt weakened? I never would have thought of that.
Dave

928porschepatrick

I gues it was the tension that came of bolt so yes weakened I din't use heat, just drilling. First a small drill the second a larger dril. an do it straight.

Bilal928S4

Was that because the engne was out of thr car and didn't have the bell housing to stop the engine from rotating with the flywheel lock?
Bilal

928porschepatrick

while engine was in the car i had a 4+ foot pipe, it didn't work (sockets broke,....... not a cheap one! )

Tails

A lot of good suggestions, so I will add my 2 cents worth.

Best quality 27mm socket, 3/4 "T" handle and 6 to 7 foot length of pipe and a good fitting flywheel lock. Insure socket is fitting square, take up tension and apply torque by brace pulling clockwise. if does not move use a longer piece of pipe and apply steady increasing torque mindful of your own safety and if it lets go it does not hit the fender or your head. (Not good to hit your head with a steel bar/pipe. Don't ask me how I know, part of the learing process with working on large marine diesel engines and not so good experience in Teintsin Hospital in 1965).

To ensure that hex ends on bolt head are not rounded from socket slipping off during previous attempts. If hex head is damaged use a full hex socket.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

Tails

Sorry, should be "brace pulling anti-clockwise" for removal and "brace pulling clockwise" for tigherning.
Tails 1990 928S$ Auto

dr bob

The deep impact socket from H-F is a 6-pt, fits nicely on the bolt. Leaving out the short extension needed with a regular socket means less slop and less torque windup vs the deep socket.

I have a legacy piece, a 3/4" drive piece that originally had a sliding crossbar/T through it. It's a perfect place to stick a 4+ ft long tapered demolition bar. No pipes, no other extensions, just the bar. Rob has used it at my house too, and it's relatively effortless. Get the right tools, big enough for the job. There are just a few places on the car where the big tools are needed, and there really is no substitute.


For those in the Los Angeles area, this stuff sits idle for months or more at a stretch; feel free to come by and borrow them for your 928 project. Perhaps someone near the OP can share the right tools and a few minutes of help to get him on his way?