Adamant1971

Well it won't budge, even with a pipe on it for leverage.

Socket is tight, I have sprayed with liquid wrench and tapped.

Can you use a torch on that bolt safely. I feel heat is the only thing that will help, other than soaking with liquid wrench fir a day or two.

Any suggestions?

Bilal928S4

Do you have the engine/flywheel lock installed? I would suggest more leverage, ie longer handle.
Bilal

John Speake

Are you using a 3/4" drive socket ? Using a 1/2" just dissipates your energy in "twist" of the drive system, but with a risk of breakage and subsequent risk of damage to yourself and the car...

GlenL

An impact wrench may crack it loose. not the torque but the tapping.

You can try hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer.

Hard to get heat or penetrating oil to the threads on that one.

I suggest a longer bar jacked up from below. Put the end of the pipe/whatever on a jack and lift. There's less stored energy so when it comes it won't swing much. If the car lifts, get a longer bar.

Rob Edwards

Put a big pillow on the left fender, in line with where whatever pipe extension you're using would otherwise dent the fender when the bolt 'lets go'.....

AO

It's pretty amazing how much torque it takes to break that sucker. I've not snapped a 1/2" drive breaker yet, but there are plenty here who have. 3/4" will work for sure (it also works well on the rear hubs too.) Then I stick about a 4' bar over the breaker bar and give it the ol' heave-ho. You swear it's gonna snap in half and then a little extra umpf, and CRACK! it's loose.

jeff spahn

+1

Rob Edwards

They always feel like a hell of a lot more than 218 ft-lbs coming off than going on......

jeff spahn

Damn Rob, you read my mind. Literally posted seconds before I was going to say this.

Melo928

Is old school "starter-trick" an unrecommended solution? One is supporting 3/4" breaker bar agains lower front frame while other one is just giving short snap from ignition key - coil wires unplugged of course.

Bolt can be opened like this pretty easily.

Hilton

I use a heavy duty air impact gun - something like this:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...2Bimpact%2Bgun

Noisy, but much easier

Bertrand Daoust

I used a heat gun when I removed mine.
If a 1/2" doesn't work, use a 3/4" with a pipe.
It will let go!!

Adamant1971

Thanks for all if the suggestions. I think my 1/2" breaker bar is twisting too much at the head, causing a loss in torque, Im going to pick up a new one and a longer pipe and try again tomorrow.

Rob Edwards

Is there a Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight? The set linked below is really nice for the rear suspension bolts (22 and 24 mm) crank bolt (27mm), the rear axle bolt (32mm), the internal fuel pump (36mm) and various places where you need a large socket for use as a press tool (bearing races, straightening bent fuel level sender tubes )

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piec...-set-5494.html

dr bob

My so-far-always-works solution is a deep impact socket, 3/4" drive, and a four-plus foot cheater. It's a one-hander for most, and with minimum flex/windup. least risk of damage when it does release. Toughest so far was doing Ryan P's GT motor several years ago, motor in the stand and therefore no flywheel lock. His jack handle wedged in the clutch end, big bar on the front, and it finally rolled out. A big enough lever with a stiff enough bar --will-- get it done.

Those big 3/4"-drive impact guns are OK if you have enough room and enough air. Mine won't fit in there even with the radiator removed, and a 3/8" hose is way too puny. I plumbed 1/2" NPT and 1/2" hose from the top of the tank with no elbows reducers or regulators, to 3/8" NPT on the wrench itself, and it still wouldn't do much for a rear axle nut. I looked at the beating that the CV's and final drive unit was taking from the impacts, and moved to the big bar instead.