macfly4

I'm starting to lose my mind. I know there are other threads on this but I just wanted to vent. My brakes now sound like they are banshees heralding the death of someone in the near future. I shake with trepidation when 'cruising' slowly in high visibility, swanky boulevards because I know that as I touch the brakes to come to a slow stop the heads will turn as the squeal of torture screams from my brakes.
Washing the car seems to help for a short time. Taking high speed runs and short quick stops helps for a very short time. Cruising on the highway at 60 with one foot soft on the brake and the other still on the accelerator helps for a short time...but recently, the banshees return with all too unappreciated frequency.
Should I just buy a new set of rotors and pads and be done with it or do i just need pads with 'dampers' or something? How do I know if it is the pads or the rotors.
Please help me before this beautiful car is full of buckshot.

Ducman82

how many miles on the brakes? when i have that issue i will get up to speed and give the brakes a "love tap" to clean them off as it were. seems to work.

Courtshark

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...Brake%20Pad%20

This is what you need. I think.

Don't shoot 'er. You can get in trouble for that.

http://www.examiner.com/strange-news...his-own-camaro

the flyin' scotsman

what brand of brake pads and rotors do you have?

3 -4 high speed runs with very hard braking inbetween then let them cool typicaly helps much.

taking out the pads, champhering the leading edge and using goop on the backside followed by the above fixes them for good.

macfly4

Definitely less than 10k miles on those pads but i assume the rotors are original. I have done the love tap several times. it helps for awhile (minutes) but it comes back. at this point its almost all the time I stop.

robot808

Well, I would take a look at the pads and rotors before I bought new ones. While you are in there you can apply some anti-seize to the back of the pads. Check the thickness of your pads and rotors, check for even wear. Then, if you need them, buy new ones.

Bill Ball

Antiseize on the back of the pad in the area contacting the piston and a little on the metal tabs the pads rest on seems to work for me. I haven't had the factory damping plates installed for at least 8 years - they are too much of pain to deal with and it appears I don't need them. I use mostly factory pads although I have Axxis Metalmasters on currently, trying to find something that dusts less than the factory pads.

If you have original rotors, do they have a lip on the edge? If the lip is approaching 1mm, the rotors are done. The rotor thickness should be at least 30mm. They start at 32, so there's not much wear allowed.

James Bailey

New smooth rotors(no grooves or wear lip) new OEM pads and chamfer the leading edge of the pads.....use the rubberized Brake Quiet stuff on the back of the pads. Break in the brakes properly and you should be looking and sounding good for a long time .
If you are doing your own work and your time is free try the chamfer and goop before you do the whole thing.

macfly4

I know, having this car, I should be more of a wrench but, sadly, Im just not there yet so I will likely take these to some place to have them done. Should I just go out and buy these metal masters and bring them in? if i buy the dampeners will they know about this or is this more of a specific 928 thing? where is the best place to order these pads?

James Bailey

The more metal in the brake pad the more likely it is to make noise.....Metal Masters as the name implies is a high performance high metal pad......You want nice factory Jurid or Textar street pads. And new rotors.
The big problem with the factory anti squeal stick on dampers is there are like 6 different sizes and until you take it apart no way to know which you have.

Charley B

If you're thinking of getting more involved in the wrenching on your 928, the brakes are a good place to start. They are very easy and straight forward to work on. there's plenty of help here and if you have a digital camera we can help you each step of the way. The suggestions here will cost you about $5 vs. a shop charging $250 to R&R your pads. they tend to call that a brake job and charge the book price.

My daughter recently stopped by complaining of a horrible noise coming from her brakes. I made her watch me do the left side pad replacement and then handed her the wrenches. She did the right side without a word from me. Of course she now realizes I don't possess magical mechanical powers.

macfly4

sorry again for the stupid questions but are those pads special order items or can they be found locally?

macfly4

hmmm. well maybe i will try to take a look at them tomorrow. might be an excuse to go out and buy a decent jack Gotta start somewhere!

blown 87

I agree, need new parts.
That is why we keep a big bag of the factory dampers.
There is a Porsche TSB on the dampers and how to use/re-use them.


I go a few steps past what Porsche calls for, I posted all that before, if any one wants it I will dig up the link.

Maleficio

Yep, ownership of a 928 requires one to wear two hats: driver's hat and mechanic's hat. Working on these cars is almost as fun as driving them, in my opinion.