Hi

I had a problem with my interior oveheating badly... and my twin Nitrous bottles in the back were overheating drastically

This was when I was parking my car in the street outside my Computer shop (daily driver)

Once I saw the interior temperature as high as 118 F

What I did was to have the rear hatch and both rear quarters tinted in "LIMO TINT"

This cuts down the light by around 90% and the temperature by around 45%...

In the UK you are NOT LEGALLY allowed to tint the side windows or screen , otherwise I would have...

So the trick is to A, Use Limo tint and B, Tint as many windows as you can legally..

You WILL find one problem though...with Limo tint on the hatch its almost impossible to see out (through the interior mirror) as it always looks like late evening , even in bright sunlight...

What I did was mount a rear view camera in the rear PU , and put a clip on LCD screen over the interior mirror...works perfectly, although I did wince a little when I was drilling the 1 inch round hole for the camera in the PU

Hope this helps...

All the best Brett

 

it only works if the fan is in a direct line with the sun, when the sun moved to the front of the car then it doesn't work, i had one.

 

Quick to put on and seems to work well and fits the car
http://smartcarcover.com/

 

^^^Wonder how that would work with the hatch.

 

Put tint on my 84' to help with the NV sun. Still gets hot but cuts down on the UV.

 

The new 3M 10% "tint"..which is invisible to the eye...is 99% UV, and engineered to be massively resistant to IR.

Monstrous difference.

Be about $600 to do your windshield..but when I need a new one, I'll be getting that added.

The 3M rep let me cruise his van with it on it..and on a hot day, you felt "cold" with the AC driving around, because you expect a huge IR heat load, but you dont get any.

 

3M Crystalline film sounds really cool, but pricey. Googling I found a couple prices, 5'x100' roll $1000, one precut front windshield for diy $189.

With 70% VLT (visible light transmission) people are saying they get away with it on front windows in California.

 

A strong second for the suggestion to get Nicole's 100% occlusive window sunshades. I have used them for 8 or 9 years. Without them not only would the interior get hotter, but I'm sure all my panels would be warped and the leather trashed. My seats and panels still look like new despite 235K miles.

 

Yup..but recovering the dash is worth the investment, IMHO..

 

Brett said he saw interior temps as high as 118F in his car. Where I'm working right now in the Sandbox, I've seen ambient temps outside as high as 125F. Heavens knows what a car parked in the sun would be like.

I've seen a few posts about UV blockage. I thought UV was what aged materials like vinyl and leather. Isn't it the IR that created all the heat?

 

IR makes it hot, UV destroys "chemically", deteriorates stuff so its no longer pliant etc.

 

Jon,

A few points need to be cleared here viz:
1. Window films do not change much how the inside of the car heats up when the car is sat in the sun but they do make a difference in the time it takes to heat up and more importantly, how long it takes to cool down- that is what you notice more than anything else.
2. Films act as a barrier for both UV and IR transmission resistance- top quality films do both very well- chep films do not. The UV causes degration to plastics and leather- the ehat is more a comfort/danger type of thing [ a baby died last week after his parents inadvertently left him in the car at midday!
3. Films can be totally transparent and just as effective- they do not need to have dark or reflective pimp like tints- they can be totally invisible.
4. No idea of the laws where you are, but here in Oman the police regulate tints for what I understand are security reasons- I forget the transmissivity factors allowed but the idea is that the police want to be able to see if anyone is up to anything "ïllegal" inside the car. Common sense also dictates that visibility should not be restricted especially for night time vision.
5. I use a film system called Sunprotech. It is superb- even with 45C ambients the a/c system is effective [not freezing] when cruising but everything in the a/c system has to be working correctly.
6. If you have the rear a/c package fitted it does not cool the car more- rather it redistributes the cooling duty that is available as the condenser is the limiting factor.
7. If you have a 928 fitted with the variable slats in front of the radiator, no tonly should these be wired open, the slats should be removed altogether- it improves air flow through the radiator [and this the condenser.
8. If you have an automatic model, the transmission cooler results in a smaller condenser being fitted. If a separate transmission cooler can be fitted [not in front of the condenser] then a manual tranny a/c condenser could be fitted [I purchased a fan cooler to do this with a view to fitting in the wheel well but never mounted it- yet].
9. Another thing to consider is to fit a "quarter cover" when the car is parked- this covers the glass/roof.


Trust the above of interest.

Regards

Fred R

 

I recently had my doors, rear sides and rear tinted, made a big difference. Then while picking up from the tint shop one of the guys in passing mentioned doing the windshield, I was like "HUH?, tint the windshield, sounds safe and illegal"... ends up they had optically clear film which cuts down UV and IR 46%. So said, do it! Gotta say it made a HUGE difference in heat inside.

 

I have had interior thermometers in several vehicles, and have seen 140 - 145 deg F many times in the Georgia sun.


"The Cancer Council of Australia published a (draft) position statement on the UV protection offered by car windows as well as tints and coatings. The research that they reviewed showed that:
• Clear auto glass (side windows) blocks 97% if UVB radiation and about 37% of UVA radiation
• Laminated windshields block all of the incoming UVB and about 80% of the UVA radiation."

My eyeglasses darken in the sun - they stay clear inside the car.

 

So, Wally, the direct implication is that tints that only block UV don't add much to the windows.

I bypass the whole issue with the the reflective window shades in all windows, originally purchased from 928 Specialists 11 years ago (they have held up well). The interior still gets toasty from heat conduction through the body shell, but it cools quickly and would be FAR, FAR worse w/o the occlusive shades. They do take a minute or two to install when I park, but they have done a wonderful job protecting the interior. Unless you have limo tint, which is not very practical or legal, you need something like the 100% occlusive shades.