DD Clutch problem
#1
DD Clutch problem
Hi
I have DD clutch, The slave clutch travel about 3~4 cm, is that normal? Right now it make some scratch noise(from relese lever) when I place down clutch pedal.
should I adjust it to factory 17.5mm? or...
Need you guys input, Thanks!
I have DD clutch, The slave clutch travel about 3~4 cm, is that normal? Right now it make some scratch noise(from relese lever) when I place down clutch pedal.
should I adjust it to factory 17.5mm? or...
Need you guys input, Thanks!
#2
did you put in a new upper release arm bushing?
You might look at the pedal where the clevis attaches to the pedal arm if the pin is worn or the bushings are worn then you wont get full stroke
If the master cylinder has been replaced then you may have to modify it to get full stroke.
the new part has a piston thats about 5mm too long compared to the old part,
the solution is to cut off about 4.5MM off the tip of the piston and slot the end of the piston,
Note also shorten the spring so it will not be longer than the compressed length of the piston or the spring will shatter and then the metal shards will cut the MC seal and it will fail
You might look at the pedal where the clevis attaches to the pedal arm if the pin is worn or the bushings are worn then you wont get full stroke
If the master cylinder has been replaced then you may have to modify it to get full stroke.
the new part has a piston thats about 5mm too long compared to the old part,
the solution is to cut off about 4.5MM off the tip of the piston and slot the end of the piston,
Note also shorten the spring so it will not be longer than the compressed length of the piston or the spring will shatter and then the metal shards will cut the MC seal and it will fail
#3
Check the ball stud and plastic cup on the top end of the release arm. You can see these from the top after removing the air filter housing. The cup goes into the arm and over the ball stud and is the pivot point for the release arm. The cups wear out and the ball studs break off.
#4
Is this the automatic - manual conversion? DD in S4?
If you have acquired the parts from various sources, it might be good to detail all the parts utilized in the clutch actuation linkage, by part number.
There were changes with time in some of the parts especially on early cars.
Plus later cylinder stroke and slave rod length differences, IIRC.
If you have acquired the parts from various sources, it might be good to detail all the parts utilized in the clutch actuation linkage, by part number.
There were changes with time in some of the parts especially on early cars.
Plus later cylinder stroke and slave rod length differences, IIRC.
#5
Thank you guys input.
I had ask my tech man to done my 89 S4 auto convert to 5 speed, It is using G28 10 trans(from a 85 ROW).
3 weeks ago, my tech man said he finished convert. I drive the car and give a try then **** thing happen.
A broken lower bell houseing, which cause by NO pilot bearing and NO release arm bushing.
I am lucky no serious damage on my car, after fix all the faults, I find my car has 2,4 gear problem(https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...4-problem.html).
Last week I had ask my tech man to adjust master cylinder travel longer, then I hear the sound like my 3 weeks bell housing scratch sound. That is why I need you guys input, there is no 5 speed car in Taiwan, so no tech man know the car, every thing they did is experience.
(sorry English is not my mother language, I hope you guys know what I am talking)
I had ask my tech man to done my 89 S4 auto convert to 5 speed, It is using G28 10 trans(from a 85 ROW).
3 weeks ago, my tech man said he finished convert. I drive the car and give a try then **** thing happen.
A broken lower bell houseing, which cause by NO pilot bearing and NO release arm bushing.
I am lucky no serious damage on my car, after fix all the faults, I find my car has 2,4 gear problem(https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...4-problem.html).
Last week I had ask my tech man to adjust master cylinder travel longer, then I hear the sound like my 3 weeks bell housing scratch sound. That is why I need you guys input, there is no 5 speed car in Taiwan, so no tech man know the car, every thing they did is experience.
(sorry English is not my mother language, I hope you guys know what I am talking)
#7
The answer
Thanks Mrmerlin
1.I have new release arm bushing.
2.I bought new master and slave cylinder from 928 internation.
Question
I use 85 row parts for convert, I refresh all the clutch parts.
My question is
1. Should I cut shorter of master cylinder piston? 4.5MM, right?
2. Shorter the spring, you mean short this (928 423 357 04) spring parts?
1.I have new release arm bushing.
2.I bought new master and slave cylinder from 928 internation.
Question
I use 85 row parts for convert, I refresh all the clutch parts.
My question is
1. Should I cut shorter of master cylinder piston? 4.5MM, right?
2. Shorter the spring, you mean short this (928 423 357 04) spring parts?
did you put in a new upper release arm bushing?
You might look at the pedal where the clevis attaches to the pedal arm if the pin is worn or the bushings are worn then you wont get full stroke
If the master cylinder has been replaced then you may have to modify it to get full stroke.
the new part has a piston thats about 5mm too long compared to the old part,
the solution is to cut off about 4.5MM off the tip of the piston and slot the end of the piston,
Note also shorten the spring so it will not be longer than the compressed length of the piston or the spring will shatter and then the metal shards will cut the MC seal and it will fail
You might look at the pedal where the clevis attaches to the pedal arm if the pin is worn or the bushings are worn then you wont get full stroke
If the master cylinder has been replaced then you may have to modify it to get full stroke.
the new part has a piston thats about 5mm too long compared to the old part,
the solution is to cut off about 4.5MM off the tip of the piston and slot the end of the piston,
Note also shorten the spring so it will not be longer than the compressed length of the piston or the spring will shatter and then the metal shards will cut the MC seal and it will fail
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#8
Parts
Thanks Landseer
The master and slave cylinder is new from 928 INT(2 months ago), new DD clutch plate. included blue house.
Rest parts is come from a 85 ROW.
The master and slave cylinder is new from 928 INT(2 months ago), new DD clutch plate. included blue house.
Rest parts is come from a 85 ROW.
Is this the automatic - manual conversion? DD in S4?
If you have acquired the parts from various sources, it might be good to detail all the parts utilized in the clutch actuation linkage, by part number.
There were changes with time in some of the parts especially on early cars.
Plus later cylinder stroke and slave rod length differences, IIRC.
If you have acquired the parts from various sources, it might be good to detail all the parts utilized in the clutch actuation linkage, by part number.
There were changes with time in some of the parts especially on early cars.
Plus later cylinder stroke and slave rod length differences, IIRC.
#9
if you can post part numbers of all of the clutch parts others with PET can figure out what you have and what you need.
the later style release arms fit the GTS and thus require a GTS throw out bearing and GTS guide tube,
the MC you have may need to be modified but since you dont have an old one to compare,
taking it apart and measuring the piston we may be able to figure out if it needs to be modified.
As far as the bell housing snapping not really sure how that happened but it looks like the release arm is being moved too far and its hitting the inside of the cover again a part number off the bell housing may be in order.
PET may show a later bell housing that has a lower area,
or the release arm bushing may be bad and letting the arm hang down enough to contact the bell housing
the later style release arms fit the GTS and thus require a GTS throw out bearing and GTS guide tube,
the MC you have may need to be modified but since you dont have an old one to compare,
taking it apart and measuring the piston we may be able to figure out if it needs to be modified.
As far as the bell housing snapping not really sure how that happened but it looks like the release arm is being moved too far and its hitting the inside of the cover again a part number off the bell housing may be in order.
PET may show a later bell housing that has a lower area,
or the release arm bushing may be bad and letting the arm hang down enough to contact the bell housing
#15
it would also be helpful to post the throw out bearing and release arm and guide tube part numbers that you have ,
as these parts can also effect operation, ,
sorry i dont have a PET to look up these number but you might call 928INTL to see if they can assist you with a match of the correct parts to fit your job
as these parts can also effect operation, ,
sorry i dont have a PET to look up these number but you might call 928INTL to see if they can assist you with a match of the correct parts to fit your job