Ducman82

on your VE tables, i cant for the life of me, figure out how to import them.

im going to work on a colder intake set up at some point. cant run tubes up front with the coils and rails in the way. ill figure out something.

mark kibort

I tested 5 hp loss by attaching a big , very efficient cone filter to the MAF. i suspect the stock filter tray is one of the best intakes ever. definitely would be a good bet to go toe to toe with any other intake ever made or put on the 928.

Ducman82

ya, i need to figure that out. BUT not many places one could route intake piping. coils and injectors are in the way of the stock locations...

Ducman82

well for the short drive to took after uploading Colin's tune maps, and letting the computer auto tune, all seems well. the cat got RED hot and was making things smoke when i got home, so i had to throw some fans on it. time to cut that pig out. i dont think it liked tuning process (lots'o fuel) that much.

i do have a slight rear main seep, which sounds like a winter project (new slave and MC, gregs hose kit) would also be in the works.

oil looks kinda grey, no fuel smell (that much, what with tuning and all) but ill drain it before she goes to the dyno.

air filter set up has to be changed... thats some HOT air going in that baby. ....

Lizard928

I told you on the air filter!

Also forget about auto tune!

Reload the VE table and adjust required fuel till you're at 14.7.
Then adjust the idle advance to 28 deg and readjust the req fuel to get back to 14.7:1

Ducman82

i know you told me on the AF! now i need to work on that.

Message set on that tune idea.

Fabio421

Guess what's available for the Megasquirt 3 now. 2 channel knoch detection that can retard the spark. Better yet, it was tested with the 928 knock sensors.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...kit-p-522.html

This add on board solders on top of the MS3 daughter board and gives you two channels of knock input that the MS3 can use to retard spark. Using this module will give you a much more sophisticated knock detection circuit than on any previous MegaSquirt knock detection. Features include a programmable bandpass filter, levels that change with RPM, the ability to assign different cylinders to different sensors, and different gain levels for each cylinder. See the MS3 manual for details.

We carried out our own testing with a Bosch 0 261 231 008 sensor - this is a broadband (non-resonant) sensor type that has no built in filtering, so it can be used with a wide variety of bore sizes. Similar Bosch sensors should also work (most of these only differ in their packaging). This knock module can also be used with tuned knock sensors if they are tuned to your engine's bore size.

This board only works with MS3.

Ducman82

i was thinking about that! ^^^^^^

Update today

Rear main seal replaced. looks like i just did not install the one when i had the engine out all the way. so it was leaking where the "removal key way" is. so i replaced it anyway. i used the flywheel/old seal trick to install the new one. no leaks yes... WHEW. if i have to take that damn dual clutch out again, a single is going in its place......

after trying to tune and that little race cat getting RED HOT, i cut the bastard off. i will say this... TIG welding exhaust is easy out of the car, however, using TIG to tack pipe UNDER A CAR with a foot pedal control is not easy.

after a few hours of doing that i took her for a test drive. got a STRONG smoke, smell... WTF!!!! turned out to be the Mr Gasket header collector seals burning off something from new... stunk bad.

I also emptyed the Castrol 20w50 i used, and added TR-1 with ZEP per GB guidance. now oil pressure is at 5 all the time after crank... not sure about that. but the engine has not exploded.... yet..

PS car is to loud.... wife hates it now.... sigh....

Ducman82

I have a small coolant seep of some kind in the the intake valley. and for the life of me i cant find it. i see a slight dampness where the passenger side head gasket meets the the block, but no trail in to the valley. heater hose adapter and water bridge gaskets seem ok on both sides. but it could be a trail forming under pressure and traveling along that seam......

Fabio421

You need one of these. If you don't already own one and don't care to own one, you can "rent" one from your local Advance Auto or Autozone.

Ducman82

rented the tester. found some hose connections that were a little leaky, but nothing that could leak in to the valley. the damn seal on the tool is kinda crap so it leaks where it mounts so i have to keep pumping. i cant see any more leaks for the life of me in to that valley.

next i have die im going to add and see what happens.

Ducman82

added the dye, ran it around the block a few times and let her idle for a bit. checked with light and glasses from the dye kit, nothing showed up. i cleaned the valley so maybe it was left over from something i tightened awhile ago, and that fixed it. when the car is cooler and the garage gets darker ill check again.

IcemanG17

I agree with Colin...... if you had a choice between a higher flow, but hotter air vs slightly less flow but colder air.......thats an easy choice....

Ducman82

this is what i have now.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...phase-1-a.html

AO

What an awesome thread! Now that it is clear my 85 euro motor is toast... I am planning on doing this 5.0 hybrid build like you. Will be asking you lots of questions over the winter.