Speedtoys

Looks...pretty simple.

ANy gotchas? Gotta change some dead bulbs.

dr bob

Owner's manual shows which screws are for adjusting. Don't turn those. (!!!!) INstead the others and the lenses/reflectors come off. The adjusters operate little plastic arms that attach to the reflectors. If you start turning them and inadvertently "over-adjust" the screws, they will break. They WILL break.

jon928se

Pulling the lights out is easy - once you've removed the front PU. Separating the lenses and the lights is another story.

Speedtoys

The front PU?

I'll be in front of the HW tonight when I get home...

Tom in Austin

IIRC, you have to take off the little vertical black "bumpers" between the light unit and turn signals in order to reach the screws on that side.

As Jon says, it comes out as a unit and just remove the bulbs out the back to replace.

dr bob

Two screws on each black corner bumper, and one screw pops the little clear plastic filler. That gives access to the screws for removing the lenses and reflectors, which is all you need for bulb replacement. Jon is funning with you on removing the whole PU bumper shell. That's needed if you want to remove the whole light assembly with the rear housing, but not for bulb or lens/reflector replacement.

On my list of one-of-these-days to-do's is a conversion of the fog sections to HID. I use them for DRL's, but bulb replacement is way too regular. H3 life expectancy is a few hundred hours at best.

Alan

The S4+ lens attachment has 4 screws - 1 in each corner - unscrew only these - the center screws between these (2 one side & one on the other) are for adjustment - don't touch these.

The lenses come out with the reflectors & bulbs attached. When you remove them have a stool & towel ready to lay the lens on right where it rotates forward - the wires to the bulbs are connected with quick disconnect connectors - 2 pairs of pliers are helpful (to hand) to get these apart - but label the wires by function first!

Alan

Speedtoys

Thanks guys..this will help when I dig into the WSM as well at home.

Does the WSM talk about aligning these lights?

Bill Ball

They're already broken on nearly every one of these lights I have removed.

Bertrand Daoust

If I remember well, there is 2 screws per light - drivind and fog - to ajust them.
Left and right and up and down. There's some arrows showing witch ones witch.

Bertrand Daoust

Like Bill said. Mine had 2 out of 4 that were broke. Tried to glued them without succes.
The 2 others were quite hard to turn so I fixed the whole problem in buying 2 brand new sets.
Days and night. Ajusting the new ones was very easy. And they look so nice without the crack and pin holes!

Alan

2 adjuster screws for the driving lights and 1 for the fogs. fogs are just up-down for cut off - they are such a wide beam pattern you don't really need anything else.

The driving lights have 2 adjusters however they really aren't simple up-down, left-right adjusters they both move the same side of the lens that is pivoted on the other side. Moving both together the same amount keeps approx vertical aim the same while moving the lens L-R (limited range)..Moving either one alone rotates the lens up-down.

If you have broken adjusters don't waste your time trying to glue the plastic to plastic - trust me it is quite futile since the plastic part must remain flexible to work.

Instead JB-Weld a small "U" shaped section of thin spring steel (from the end of a small spring - ACE hardware or similar) to each base part of the adjuster this can flex as needed.

I have repaired many this way and they last well and function correctly if handled carefully...

Alan

Speedtoys

Apparently my section 94 is not new enough for S4 lenses...

But on the pass side assy where ive started, the outside pair at the edges, are out. The INSIDE pair of screws at the edges..are not. They are trying to turn some wavy piece of plastic behind them??? Theyre not coming loose easily, and it wants to twist apart the plastic behind them..


Im not touching the INNER screw on the inside that is turning nicely and does adjust the driving lamp well.

Speedtoys

Ok..I see what im up against now.

Im buying new hardware.


Can you get just the BUCKET that the lights fasten into?

jon928se

I wasn't funning !

The lense retaining screws screw into threaded brass inserts in the grey plastic back part of the lights. If your 928 has lived somewhere they use salt on the roads the steel retaining screws will have corroded into the brass inserts and won't be removable. Removing the whole unit is then the only option so you can get good access at the rear.

IIRC you can get at the three retaining nuts by removing the wheel well liners then rasing the headlights to get access to the rear face of the front pu. 10mm socket and the three nuts will come off. A second or so later there will be the sound of breaking glass lenses as the wiring is just long enough to let the units fall out and hit hit the ground - Get a helper! or duct tape the lights into place first or something.

Once out it is relatively easy to cut the heads of the frozen screws and the push the screw and brass insert (that is probably spinning and loose in the plastic) out of the back part. I repaired mine by JB welding a stainless steel M4 nut into the recess where the brass inserts were to accept an M4 cheese head (allen) bolt to fix the lenses back in.