Pulling S4 driving lights out..
#16
Agree with Jon - lousy materials choices here - replace with stainless metric machine screw HW at first opportunity and grease the inserts well too - I had one that was almost frozen (in Phoenix AZ!)... broke it free finally...
No issues since cleaning, greasing & SS hardware swap...
Shoot some PB Blaster or Kroil down the screw hole - repeat over a few days..
Alan
No issues since cleaning, greasing & SS hardware swap...
Shoot some PB Blaster or Kroil down the screw hole - repeat over a few days..
Alan
#17
PO has been in there before me.
On the pass side, only the top screw on the outside holds it all in there. The inside screws twisted apart the housing..NOT connected.
On the drivers side..the inside screws are in there, and the thin plastic to the rear housing is barely intact.
Will....get creative on repairs on the pass side.
On the pass side, only the top screw on the outside holds it all in there. The inside screws twisted apart the housing..NOT connected.
On the drivers side..the inside screws are in there, and the thin plastic to the rear housing is barely intact.
Will....get creative on repairs on the pass side.
#18
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Bend, Oregon
I'm not sure why folks feel a need to crank down on those screws when changing bulbs. The lens assembly seats in an o-ringed housing, o-ring doesn't seal any better with the screws extra tight. Cad-plated steel screws into brass inserts molded into ears on the plastic rear housing. Torque on the screwdriver passes to the inserts, and they easily twist out of the plastic. So, just enough (really, just barely enough) on those screws when installing. A dab of Vaseline on the screw threads helps keep water out of the threaded insert. Tighten to just snug, somewhere in the neighborhood of the torque you can apply with three fingers wrapped around the smooth shaft of the screwdriver. Nothing touches the screwdriver handle, no fingers, nothing! Just enough to draw the lens into the housing and no more.