Silver79

My shifter ball cup is worn out and I am just wondering other people's thoughts on the upgraded version of 928 Motorsports shifter ball cup design, the one made out of machined metal without the nylon insert. I am particularly interested in hearing from those that have installed it. Are you satisfied with it? Does the shift lever rattle or vibrate at certain speeds? Have you found that you constantly need to adjust it to take slop out of the joint? Thanks. Joe

Dannyfumi

I have one for sale, 60.00 bucks plus shipping. I never installed. PM me and paypal.

Thanks,

Dan

Lizard928

Contact Rog100 and ask about the shifter that doesnt require that part....

the flyin' scotsman

Go with Colins robust solution through Roger......you wont be disappointed

u home Colin?......im in Edmonton

jcorenman

I installed one in our S4, then swapped it out for a stock ball cup. It was a bit fiddly to install-- the part that tightens the cup onto the ball and sets the clearance, and the part that threads into the shaft and sets the effective shaft length, are the same part. The only way to get both adjustments correct seems to be trial and error, in an area where you can barely get a finger.

But that's not why I un-installed it. The problem was noise, we suddenly had a lot of gearbox whine getting transmitted into the interior. It wasn't drowning out the RMB, but we didn't like it. Now, I had it snugged down pretty good, zero play and very light drag (my version of "turn the inner barrel to set the desired amount of drag"). With some clearance it probably wouldn't have whined as bad, and just rattled instead. (And yes, the TT and gearbox bearings are fine, this was our one-owner-known-history S4 with 75K on the clock at the time). We decided that it just wasn't the right part, for this car.

If you don't care about a bit of noise and are willing to fiddle with the adjustments, then I think you could be very happy with it.

Edit: I have one for sale also, but Dan was first.

Cheers, Jim

Silver79

How much is this shifter? Is this the one that requires center console removal with drilling some holes?

rockatansky

Silver79, I have one installed from 928 motorsports. The problem is that since I installed it I haven't test the car. I have still a lot of work to do before.

What I can tell you is that to me it seems that this is how the ball cup should be made from Porsche. Before buying it we fight many hours trying to put the old ball cup back in place. We were not lucky so we get the one from motorsports.

It was not really easy to tighten at all. We have the central tube in the middle, but with a bit of patience we got it in place.

With the car still on jacks, the change seems smooth, but as said, I'm not a good reference because I havent tested on the move.

mark kibort

the best fix I have found , is take a stock ball cup, spot weld the shaft to the cup as that is a weak link, and install and forget!

James Bailey

The original ballcup socket is quite easy to install if you use a very large hose clamp or two in series and wrap it around the torque tube and tighten. Once it pops into place you can then loosen the clamp a bit but leave it in place...assures that the socket will not pop off anytime soon

SeanR

I've tried to install two before. One with the torque tube on the car, it went back in the parts bin after an hour of doiking with it. The next time tried it with the torque tube out (different car) played with it a bit and tossed it back in the parts bin. Went back with the stock parts on both cars from Roger.

Imo000

If the stock was good for 20 years, a new one will be good for the rest of the car's life. I don't know why some have the urge to replace durable original parts with snake oil.

Erik N

I have one. I replaced it when the engine was out of the car. My original nylon insert had been replaced not too long earlier and so it was in fine shape.

I am extremely happy with the product. It made the shifting way more precise (for a 928, that is) and "notchy". You can really feel what the transmission gears are doing when you shift, very direct and mechanical. When tracking the car, and shifting around a corner with neutral load, there is none of the "vagueness" that there used to be- you KNOW it is in gear. Even resting your hand on the stick as you drive you can feel what the transmission is doing... pretty cool. It really adds to the mechanical connectedness of the car IMO.

As far as noise, I noticed no difference. I get a bit of transaxle whine, but it comes from the rear. Maybe its the torque tube.

However, the thing was a bitch to install. The problem is that when you try to tighten the thing down on itself to lock, it will self-adjust out of it's "sweet spot", because of the way all 3 parts are threaded into each other and into the factory linkage. What finally worked for me was to hold everything in place with the wrench and have an assistant use the shift lever inside the car to actually apply the tightening force. Got it snug and then put a couple of bits of JB Weld on the outside connections as a sort of external loctite.

I think installing it w/ the engine in the car would be possible, but barely. If mine ever comes loose, you will hear me cussing from across the state.

I would never go back to the original. I am running a DEVEK short-shifter as well, that is another product worth it's weight in gold. Also use Redline 75/90NS, that helps too, way better than Swepco blue.

EDIT: I see you live in WI; same as Carl. Maybe he could install it for you? He is probably set up for it and has probably done it many times. Might be worth it...

Ducman82

+1 Roger shifter

SharkSkin

I have 20K miles on mine, no buzzing or vibration other than what you can feel through the linkage due to everything being tight - nothing audible(I packed it with grease on install and snugged it down as Jim C describes). I replaced all of the bushings including the front guide bushing that rarely gets mentioned and the rear coupler at the same time so hard to gauge the effect of this one part but I see it as a pretty much permanent solution. It was an easy install with the TT out:



I can see how it would be a major PITA with the TT in, I would say that you could save a lot of grief by dropping the front of the TT a bit to get at it:



With a 78/79 you would want to remove the front guide bushing screws first, since that bolts to the body(details at the link above and here).

If Colin's shifter that Roger sells were available when I did this it might have been a tough choice for me, but in the end I probably would have still gone this route because I'm a bit funny about drilling holes in the floorpan of the car.

karl ruiter

I have one in and am satisfied with the performance and glad to be out of the cycle of failure of the stock one (I have had the stock ones fail again just a few years after replacment). I installed mine with the engine out but the torque tube in its normal position. Absolutly a monster to install this way. Consider doing it the way the pic above shows. Or think about Roger's solution.