Dean_Fuller

Just got off the phone with Sean about this. Here is the situation.

1980 US model had a Purolator PM4211 in tank strainer BONDED somehow in the tank outlet. Sean says there should be a aluminum insert that is threaded in this outlet. That is gone. Looks like at some point maybe the in tank strainer seized on this insert and in the process of removal it broke out or off. NOW WHAT? I can't afford a used tank from 928 International. Sean said that some have fixed this with a bonding agent that withstands fuel exposure. If anyone has had luck correcting this issue please share your success story with me.

Pic 1 and 2 is the removed strainer.

Pics 3 is what is left of the gas tank outlet.

Can this be fixed? Does the tank need to be removed? Is the tank a loss? If so anyone have an extra laying around?

SeanR

Dean, that is the threaded boss still attached to the strainer.

BTW, you hoses should ship today or tomorrow.

Fabio421

Are you sure you cant get the rest of it out of the tank? If not, someone glued it once so glue it again. But I'd try to get the rest of it out first. Grind on it lightly with a dremel to see if the original threads are still there.

Mike Simard

I think someone from Hacker's area was just dealing with this problem. Hopefully he'll chime in.

hacker-pschorr

There isn't anything else to remove. In pic #1 the sleeve (which contains he threads) is still attached to the tank insert piece that has the strainer attached to it.

The checkerboard pattern you see is the back of the sleeve.

We used PC7 epoxy, available at most ACE Hardware stores.

IIRC we used the epoxy to seal the strainer piece to the original insert, then epoxied both of them together to the tank.

Three weeks and no leaks. Just make sure the area is damn clean and dry.

Z

There is nothing missing. The first picture is three pieces, the strainer piece that screws into the tank, a rubber seal, and the threaded insert that used to be part of the tank. The knurled part was originally molded into the tank opening. It's basically an aluminum tube that's knurled on the outside and threaded on the inside, and the strainer piece is screwed into it. When you removed the strainer, you pulled the tank insert piece out with it. The threads of the strainer and insert may be seized together, or just tight enough, so that their grip to each other was stronger than the grip of the knurling to the plastic tank, and the insert pulled out of the tank.

There is nothing else in the tank. The piece that was in there has pulled out and is still attached to the strainer.

James Bailey

Main reason why I tell everyone NOT to remove that strainer unless they really need to ! It is not under pressure and I have seen many glued together with different degrees of success. No idea how long or what people used, just know it gets done.

hacker-pschorr

We used the PC7 on one of Tim's personal cars. I wouldn't feel comfortable performing the same fix on someone else's car.

SeanR

As I told Dean, we are out of gas tanks in the DFW area since so many of these have broken. I've saved 3 tanks and the threaded part just in case something else happens and we can try and seal these up again. Not something I am looking forward to.

Z

It might be worth mentioning that the problem on that car occurred when the strainer was being installed, not removed. Be careful not to over tighten if installing one of the strainers.

It's just a guess, but I think that the PC7 is probably better than the way that the insert was held into the tank originally, when it relied on just that knurling.

Fabio421

Oh. I see it now.

Dean, Glue that thing back in. What do you have to lose, it's already broken and you can't afford another.

jpitman2

I spun the insert in mine in 2002, sealed it up with PC11. Never leaked a drop , lasted 5 years before I replaced the tank. Got the stage of your photos, managed to get the insert off the filter, and a friend managed to get the insert back into the tank by pulling it from the inside with a wire, and epoxying it back in place. last I heard that worked OK.
jp 83 Eurpo S AT 53k

jwillman

+1 on JP's experience. My insert was coroded to the in-tank pump. I soaked it in PB blaster and got it off and then cleaned it up real good. I used JB weld and have not had any issues.

I believe the orange looking part deep in the tank is the plastic bowl baffle. It has an opening to allow the pump/strainer to fit. I believe the baffle keeps fuel from sloshing and causing irratic fuel level issues.

BC

The older cars have some sort of material on those cross-hatches that was put in to additionally "lock" the threaded insert. I had one go on a very early tank.

I think you can probably fix this yourself Dean.

How much ethanol is your gas where you live?

The reason I ask is I was wondering what the PC7 is and how its made. Ethanol does soften and dissolve resins. It will take apart JB weld.

jeff spahn

I would agree with Fabio. You aren't out anything trying the PC7