I put my assembly in a vice (held by the outlet nipple) applied some gentle heat to the knurled part, and eventually was able to get it off with multigrips, with the threads still usable. Then my friend who needed a tank took it away and refitted the insert successfully from the inside of the tank. From your pics it looks like the face on the tank hole is damaged to the point where I doubt the sealing washer would seal, so you may be better off cleaning things up as best you can, coat the knurled area liberally with one of the PCxx epoxies, and pushing the whole assembly back in - not much left to lose now. Run a hose from the outlet nipple up into top hole, and throw some gas (at least a few gallons)into it to test it for leaks - at least 24hrs afterwards. If a few gallons is OK, add some more and check again, before draining and refitting to the car.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

 

I used the same process to remove the metal insert from the old in tank pump.

I inserted mine from the front as I did not want to risk screwing up the sender and baffle taking them out.

The front opening has a small lip which extends inward to the center of the opening. It would have made pushing the insert back in vert difficult. I dry fitted the sealing ring and concluded there was enough surface area contact that I could use an exacto knife to trim the lip back a bit. This allowed me to coat the inside of the tank mating surface with JB weld and than more easily push the insert back in while twisting to ensure even contact of the sealant.

It is still a very tight fit and the last half of travel I was using a rubber mallet and would block to tap the insert home.

Its been leak free about a year. Tank was out for all of this.

Good luck.

 

You might take a look at the specifications for Pro Seal (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/ps890.php) or Flamemaster (http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/...roduct=proseal) to see about their ethanol resistance.

These products are impervious to aviation gasoline, which has no ethanol, but they are used by builders of experimental aircraft, some of which use automobile gasoline, so it would seem likely that they should be compatible.

FWIW, this link http://www.vansairforce.net/articles/tank_sealant.pdf has lots of information about tank sealers with further links to specifications and manufacturers.

Bob T.

 

Hi BC,

Eek! There must be some anecdotes about those failures. C'mon and dish ... please.

will

 

FWIW, its well known in model aeroplane circles that methanol (fuel) gradually dissolves epoxies - in fact you can thin epoxies with it. Not sure if the same relates to ethanol - they sound like they are similar strucurally. I know ethanol can be drunk relatively safely, but not methanol!
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

 

Buy a Nylock bulkhead fitting that the strainer will thread into. It's a permanent fix. If you are unable to find Nylock, try a A&N bulkhead fitting.

 

I am using ethanol in my 928s. I felt that I wanted to test a few things, and one issue that I tested was glue, resins, and those sort of epoxys. I found that if you let ethanol sit on JB weld, it will remove the JB weld from something that the JB welded was... Put on. Meaning while the ethanol is not going to destroy the JB weld immediately, any strength the JB weld has in the form of conjoining pieces of something, will be lost - if the ethanol is ON the JB weld. But it will not seep into the JB weld.

 

So Dean, were you able to mend this?

 

EASY FIX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

call any marine supply store and get a good epoxy..
thicken with cabosil to peanut butter consistency, and epoxy it back in... No problems whatsoever...

Many marine fuel tanks are made from fiberglass epoxied plywood... no issues whatsoever.

 

you can also use jb weld, etc... most epoxies are fuel resistant.. i would use a good marine grade, like west system, etc....

you can even get pre thickened west system epoxy in a cauck gun tube... it has a mixing tip and mixes the two parts as it passes through the tip... about $20.00 for a tube, but well worth it...

another option would me marine tex 5200.... great stuff..adheres like superglue (or better), but flexible like silicone....

 

We fixed a local's car that had the same problem. We stuck the insert into a vise, heated it with a torch, and then used a 36mm socket to unscrew the pump from the threaded insert.

Then clean up the insert with a wire wheel on a drill (on the K-jet car we were working on it had some rust issues in the fuel system - since had new fuel lines, rebuilt distributor and a new pump). Once it was clean, we cleaned the tank thoroughly, and then epoxied the insert in with JB Weld (it's fuel resistant). Premium (98 RON) fuel in this country has no ethanol in it.

 

98? Wow. I bet it has toluene?

 

I did manage to get the insert loose from the strainer. I'm recovering the dash right now...so I'll be back at the gas tank soon.l

 

Here in Sydney, two of the four major brands here have some Toluene. A third has a higher percentage of aromatics (Benzene and derivatives). The fourth, BP, has their own refineries and achieves their octane through better refining (which incidentally means BP's fuel gives the best fuel economy of the ones available locally - noticeable over single tank).

It does vary depending on which companies have refineries local to each state - they have product-sharing agreements in some states to avoid transporting fuel thousands of km to other states.

 

Yes, 98Oct here is really good, especially in a car that can take full advantage - my Suby GT loves it.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k