SQLGuy

Thanks Josh. I think next Sunday is the soonest I'll be working on it again.

I finished up the installation of the pusher fans, and that's where it will sit for now.

Still to do:

Wire up and calibrate LC-1 wide band O2
Drop exhaust and install LC-1
While exhaust is down, replace shifter ball cup
Remove DS CO metering pipe and install metering pipe block-offs
Loosen all belts
Remove crank pulleys
Install new crank pulleys
Install air pump and PS pulley spacers
Build muffin fan array and install it
Install mounting bracket, air inlet box, blower, belt
Retension all belts
Install air intake, filter, and hose
Install plumbing from blower to MAF (incl blowoff valve)
Install some other vacuum and EGR plumbing (incl air pump filter?)

I think that's pretty much all of it. Then we'll see...

jpNcos

I take it that is as far to the passenger side as you can get that pusher fan. With what you were showing me with the intake position it seems like it is pushing right into that intake piece you were concerned with.

SQLGuy

Yes, and yes. There is supposedly a small amount of space between the air intake box and the radiator. I'm kind of hoping pushing air there may help with cooling, since the pull fans on the other side will not be flowing any air at all there.

Jon B.

The one big fan that usually gets supplied with the kits isn't sufficient? I'm curious about your use of the two smaller ones.

Tampa 928s

You do have the puller fans 4-Total with brackets on the back of the radiator "right"?

I don't think those will cut it, you should have had a 17" pusher in the front for the condenser!

I have an Audio Temp sensor controlled by Two relays for my fan set-up!

In Florida, in traffic under high heat and humidity with air on Temp gets a little to high, but under normal conditions cooling is sufficient with my set up.

SQLGuy

The kit comes with 4 puller fans. Period.

Extra, pusher, fan(s) are recommended, but not included.

Installing a single large fan on the front requires removing the louvers and motor. I want to keep them. The largest single fan that will fit (with the louvers removed), IIRC, is rated for 2100CFM or so. These two are supposed to be good for about 850CFM each.

SQLGuy

Status update:

I'm back from my trip and back to working on the car. I've dropped the exhaust and removed the old O2 sensor. According to the service records I got with the car, that sensor had about 20K miles on it. While working under the car previously I noticed that one of the heater wires was broken up near the pass through hole in the heat shield. Since that shouldn't have made much of a difference once the car was warmed up, and since it was a pain to get to, I left it like that.

Now I find that, not only was that heater wire broken, but the 3-pin plug for the O2 sensor wasn't even connected! The plugs looked surprisingly good considering I've been driving with the ECU running open loop for all the time since I got the car (over a year now).

These torn up threads also made for a lot of fun trying to get this O2 out. The wet look is from WD-40 I sprayed on to try to loosen it up. Looks a bit like someone took vice grips to it in the past. Who knows what shadows lurk in the history of a pre-owned car?

SQLGuy

Next update. New shifter ball cup is in place. The old one didn't look that bad, but the new one is definitely tighter. The old one especially had a couple of mm of up-and-down play.

FWIW, I did not remove the end piece from the front shifter shaft. Instead I partially melted the old insert with a torch and then pried it out with a seal puller. The old one was black, the new one is white, but the shape is the same, as is the feel of the plastic.

928mac

Hmmm page 2 and I still don't see a murf 1.5 under the hood . . . .

SQLGuy

And you won't today either. Shifter's all back together though, and I don't think replacing the front ball cup actually made any difference at all. I was told that that front shaft shouldn't have any play, but with the new ball cup in, and a tie strap holding it down for extra insurance, there's still a couple of millimeters play to it.

The LC-1 is also mostly in place (zip tied underneath and with all the output wires running up through the stock grommet). Still need to put the exhaust back up. Then I'll move on to locking the flywheel and loosening/removing belts and pulleys.

Tony

Ive had the same thing happen with one of my 02 sensors. Fine going in...then a few months later came out crossed threaded. Just get a tap and chase the threads again.

Imo000

Did you replace the entire ball cup or only the plastic insert?

SQLGuy

Just the insert.

Lizard928

Make sure you run a tap through the O2 bung, and use neversieze on those threads to avoid this again!

SQLGuy

Took the day off to try to get this finished. Making some progress...

CO ports are capped. Thanks for the suggestion on using stock lug nuts. I didn't like how they fit, though, so I cut them down in the lathe. Still used the ball bearings as well inside the cap, just to help seal things.

New pulleys are on, and the bracket is installed. One of the front lift eye bolts was rather reluctant to leave the engine, though. Luckily I had an already-broken HF 6mm Allen socket around that was willing to sacrifice itself to help remove the bolt.