Yay! Finally got my Murf Stage "1.5" kit.
#32
Three Wheelin'
Thanks Z, I appreciate the info.
#34
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Yes, all of the stage-1 kits now come with 42lb injectors, custom fuel, and custom ignition chips. No more FMU. Besides being a technically better and more accurate way to control fueling, it ensures that people aren't using old fuel injectors that may or may not be working as well as they should.
The stage-1 kit is intended to be easy to upgrade to stage-3, if someone wanted to do that in the future. The new stage-1 makes upgrading even easier, since you already have the 42lb injectors with the stage-1. You also don't end up buying an FMU and the associated plumbing and fittings that you then don't have any use for when going to the stage-3. It does cost a little more to get the stage-1 and then later upgrade to the stage-3 than it would to go with the stage-3 initially though.
The stage-1 kit is intended to be easy to upgrade to stage-3, if someone wanted to do that in the future. The new stage-1 makes upgrading even easier, since you already have the 42lb injectors with the stage-1. You also don't end up buying an FMU and the associated plumbing and fittings that you then don't have any use for when going to the stage-3. It does cost a little more to get the stage-1 and then later upgrade to the stage-3 than it would to go with the stage-3 initially though.
#35
Yes, the chips, 42lb injectors, and what's required to make them work together are available separately. The car would more than likely need SharkTuning if they're going into a car that's not a Murf kit though. There's no way of knowing how well they'd work in any other system right out of the box, but the engine should start right up, run, and be at least somewhat drivable under light loads. When used with one of the Murf kits, they should be pretty much plug and play though, without any real need for additional tuning.
#36
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Just about anything's available if the price is right.
Yes, the chips, 42lb injectors, and what's required to make them work together are available separately. The car would more than likely need SharkTuning if they're going into a car that's not a Murf kit though. There's no way of knowing how well they'd work in any other system right out of the box, but the engine should start right up, run, and be at least somewhat drivable under light loads. When used with one of the Murf kits, they should be pretty much plug and play though, without any real need for additional tuning.
Yes, the chips, 42lb injectors, and what's required to make them work together are available separately. The car would more than likely need SharkTuning if they're going into a car that's not a Murf kit though. There's no way of knowing how well they'd work in any other system right out of the box, but the engine should start right up, run, and be at least somewhat drivable under light loads. When used with one of the Murf kits, they should be pretty much plug and play though, without any real need for additional tuning.
#37
Administrator - "Tyson"
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#38
Three Wheelin'
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Day 1 done. Not much done really, though, but at least the project is started:
Washed the car.
Straightened up the garage somewhat.
Started with the LH and EZK chips. This included the typical setbacks:
1. Couldn't find an 8mm socket to save my life. One of three sockets missing from my main set, but the only one I don't have two or three of in other sets. Ended up using a 5/16. Don't feel like searching everywhere, so will go to Sears tomorrow and buy a new one (or two).
2. Opened up the LH to find that one of the 220uF/40V caps was cracked and leaking. Didn't want to close it back up like that, didn't want to wait 'til next week to get one from Mouser, and didn't have the slightest belief that Radio Shack would have anything suitable. Fortunately, I had a couple of decent 105 degree Nichicons on hand and installed those. I still plan to order some higher reliability (epoxy sealed) electrolytics and swap them in later though.
All for now...
Paul
Washed the car.
Straightened up the garage somewhat.
Started with the LH and EZK chips. This included the typical setbacks:
1. Couldn't find an 8mm socket to save my life. One of three sockets missing from my main set, but the only one I don't have two or three of in other sets. Ended up using a 5/16. Don't feel like searching everywhere, so will go to Sears tomorrow and buy a new one (or two).
2. Opened up the LH to find that one of the 220uF/40V caps was cracked and leaking. Didn't want to close it back up like that, didn't want to wait 'til next week to get one from Mouser, and didn't have the slightest belief that Radio Shack would have anything suitable. Fortunately, I had a couple of decent 105 degree Nichicons on hand and installed those. I still plan to order some higher reliability (epoxy sealed) electrolytics and swap them in later though.
All for now...
Paul
#39
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
I bet you must be excited!
I might shoot up your way for the Pike's Peak event next month. Maybe we can have a beer together while drooling over your SC.
Good luck with the install!
I might shoot up your way for the Pike's Peak event next month. Maybe we can have a beer together while drooling over your SC.
Good luck with the install!
#40
Three Wheelin'
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Current update (BTW, I took pictures, but I'm not going to take the time to go through them and post them now):
Checked with Tim if it would be safe to start the car with the Murf map chips but everything else stock (wanted to just verify that I was still getting spark and fuel after the ECU surgery). He said yes. Put the ECU's back in and, sure enough, it started, barely, and really ran like crap. Not surprising considering it was probably getting half the fuel it needed. Good enough, ECU's still work. :-)
Then, on to new stuff... slow going...
Dropped the undertrays.
Removed the air box, intake tubes, and one CO metering tube. Contrary to typical reports, the tube was in fine shape - no rust.
Installed all the new spark plugs (1 step colder than stock Bosch Super +)
Installed the MAF metering modification torus (a little aluminum donut to reduce the amount of air that goes through the meter compared to the amount that goes around it)
Installed the new injectors on the DS. Used pipe insulation foam to replace the shot original foam. It is a PAIN to get the cover back on with that foam in place.
About half way through the injectors on the PS.
Picked up antifreeze, distilled water, and water wetter for refilling after I get things back together.
Also picked up some extra hardware in case the exhaust collector bolts don't want to come out easily.
Josh (jpncos) stopped by to see how things were going, and gave me a ride in his 82. I've got to say I'm pretty impressed with the performance of that stock 16V car.
Still going to do a bit more tonight... try to finish up the injectors.
Checked with Tim if it would be safe to start the car with the Murf map chips but everything else stock (wanted to just verify that I was still getting spark and fuel after the ECU surgery). He said yes. Put the ECU's back in and, sure enough, it started, barely, and really ran like crap. Not surprising considering it was probably getting half the fuel it needed. Good enough, ECU's still work. :-)
Then, on to new stuff... slow going...
Dropped the undertrays.
Removed the air box, intake tubes, and one CO metering tube. Contrary to typical reports, the tube was in fine shape - no rust.
Installed all the new spark plugs (1 step colder than stock Bosch Super +)
Installed the MAF metering modification torus (a little aluminum donut to reduce the amount of air that goes through the meter compared to the amount that goes around it)
Installed the new injectors on the DS. Used pipe insulation foam to replace the shot original foam. It is a PAIN to get the cover back on with that foam in place.
About half way through the injectors on the PS.
Picked up antifreeze, distilled water, and water wetter for refilling after I get things back together.
Also picked up some extra hardware in case the exhaust collector bolts don't want to come out easily.
Josh (jpncos) stopped by to see how things were going, and gave me a ride in his 82. I've got to say I'm pretty impressed with the performance of that stock 16V car.
Still going to do a bit more tonight... try to finish up the injectors.
#41
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Next time you can't fing the 8mm.....use a 1/4 instead, they are exactly the same size.
Does the Bosch Super + have a copper core?
Does the Bosch Super + have a copper core?
#43
Three Wheelin'
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Well, I think I'm resigned to not finishing this project until I'm back from my trip.
Currently in the middle of trying to get the pusher fans zip tied to the evaporator. One's good, the other one's a bit more of a pain.
Other progress since last update:
Removed the stock fan shroud and fans
Removed the stock lower radiator hose
Finished installing the new injectors
Replaced O-rings for water bridge and oil filler (not part of the S/C install, but I already had the coolant drained, and new O-rings were needed)
Hmmm... that's really about it for progress. Man this is going slowly!
Currently in the middle of trying to get the pusher fans zip tied to the evaporator. One's good, the other one's a bit more of a pain.
Other progress since last update:
Removed the stock fan shroud and fans
Removed the stock lower radiator hose
Finished installing the new injectors
Replaced O-rings for water bridge and oil filler (not part of the S/C install, but I already had the coolant drained, and new O-rings were needed)
Hmmm... that's really about it for progress. Man this is going slowly!
#44
Captain Obvious
Super User
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