I second Bill's comment... nah, it's not too loud for me either!

Great job!

 

Colin,

I'll take another look for the bulb control plug. There are no brake lights or tail lights (as seen in the video) but the fuses are good. We only drove a mile or two in the neighborhood after dark and used the flashers.

That is my son in the video, he's king of the one-liners. I wish I had video of him saying calmly, "that never gets old" after he experienced that burst of acceleration, more than he's ever experienced with the 86.5.

Trip, I don't have the hood on yet, assume the engine will fit.

Off today, so will return Jim's hoist, wash the car, install the hood, maybe swap out the seats, and whatever else Herman feels like tinkering with this afternoon.

 

If you have no brake lights then yes, you need to find the black box under the dash at the right of the cookie tray in the passenger well. Hook that plug to that box and then people will know that you are stopping or signalling.

 

I didn’t realize the bulb control was actually attached to the tray, which was in the backseat. After I plugged it in, all lights are working normally.

The engine seems to fit under the hood just fine. I don’t see any indentions in the aftermarket hood foam either.

A lot of questions/comments from the last two days, so here they are by subject:

Hall Sensor
Herman’s Hammer showed an EZ error for the Hall Sensor. The wiring and plug on the sensor were questionable, so I’ll take a look at that. Also have a spare from the other engine. From what I’ve read, timing is retarded 6 degrees when there’s no hall sensor signal, so could be missing some HP. There were also errors for WOT switch and ACS?.



Cam Timing
Using Herman’s tool, we checked the cam timing and the driver’s side was advanced about 2 degrees, but the passenger side was spot on. I corrected the driver’s side, spun the engine, checked both and all was well (I’m making it sound much simpler then it was)



Engine Running
The idle is too high most of the time (1000-1100), and it does feel like it’s missing slightly once in a while . Maybe getting the sensors straightened out will help.

Seats
Turns out the passenger seat I bought from the 88 that the engine came from will not swap out with the 89 plug n play. The 89 has memory seats on both sides, but apparently the 88 only had memory on the driver’s side. Did some come that way? It doesn't look like anyone disconnected or removed the memory stuff. I'm wondering if I can move the electronics from one seat to the other, or maybe there’s something special about the motors. Still more than I wanted to do this weekend, so old seats stay for now.
The driver’s side will swap out with the 88 seat, but the operation of the motors is intermittent and after removing the front bolts, it wouldn’t move forward to get to the rears. None of the other directions work either. It will sometimes start working and move a fraction of an inch. Is this a common memory seat failure? I have no experience with memory seats.

Here are the new seats, driver's on the right.


AC
The AC is not working, but it looks like the compressor clutch is not engaging. I’m in touch with the previous owner (he said the video just about made him cry), and he says the AC was working. I’ve checked the compressor wire and it looks good. I noticed that if I press the AC compressor button hard the button light will come on, but the compressor still doesn’t kick in, otherwise the button is not lit when pressed in.

Cruise Control
IT WORKS!!!!! I have never had CC on my 86.

Timing Belt
The belt is riding a bit forward on the gears, maybe a 1/16” from the front of the gear (see Cam timing pic). It does seem to be close to the wear pattern from the previous belt, and it’s the same on both sides. No fraying or sign of trouble. Not sure how worried to be about that.

Couldn't resist this shot

 

The motors are the same. But, each motor has a encoder that scabs onto it, and, because it changes geometry, a different cable and a different clip lock. Basically, this arrangement identifies where , in the "lock to lock" movement of each motor, where the motor stops. The tough one to access is in the headrest and it drives the recline. Others in base of seat can be swapped more easily. Interesting job -- if you do it you will really appreciate the quality of the seat design.

So you can't swap and get the recline without total seat dis/re assembly.

You can, though, isolate the power wires from the special harness feeding the memory seat and direct wire them to the power driving the non-memory seat

DAMN nice project execution, btw.

 

Hall Sensor - its a bitch to do with the cam cover on, but possible. I found cutting up a long (7-8") hex tool and fixing it in the end of an old 1/4" drive 4mm socket helped, as did removing the engine hoist bracket and coil ground temporarily (can remove the lift point from underneath - M8 bolt)

Engine running - depending on how much driving you've done, it could still be adapting to MAF/O2 loop. Cold idle is also circa 1k rpm's until the engine starts to warm up. You can start checking other inputs like Temp II sensors and O2 sensor (unplugging it should make the idle hunt), and also driving the car a little more.

Seats - dual drivers and passenger memory is a rare-ish factory option. Driver's seat memory is standard form '88 onwards and a fairly common option on '87. If you decide to ditch the passenger memory seat in favour of a cosmetically better one, let me know I've been on the lookout for a US-based passenger memory seat to get it recovered by a well-known interior guy in your state, as part of some interior work.

The driver's seat not moving is most likely the switches - you can take them apart and clean them - just do it with the seat out of the car, and have a pan with sides underneath the switch when you pop the face off it, to catch the four small ball-bearings (you can do the switch refurb without removing the switches/harness from the seat).

AC - The suspect is the AC control head relay, or a leak.. however you can check/apply voltage at each of the switch points along the 12V line to the compressor first to eliminate the freeze switch, compressor clutch and low-pressure switch.

• Should be 12V on both sides of the freeze switch (under the windshield cowl in the top of the engine bay). If its only on one side, the switch is likely failed. If there's no voltage at all on both sides of the freeze switch, then your AC head relay is likely not working, or won't carry load. All 3 of mine were failed or intermittently failing - its an easy job to replace the relay with a small one that fits inside the control head housing.
• Should also be 12V on both sides of the low pressure switch (the lower of the two sensors by the drier - pull the boot back to expose each half). If not, then most likely there isn't enough AC charge.
• Then apply 12V to the AC clutch harness from the jump post with a test lead and make sure it engages briefly.

Excellent progress on this save.. 89 is a very nice year

 

Hilton,

I don't think its the switches, i've had that problem in the past and usually only one or two directions stops working, not all directions. This evening the kids wanted to take it out again and the seats started working perfectly during the drive.

Thanks for the ac steps, ill take a look tomorrow.

I already have someone interested in the pass seat but the timing may not work out on that deal. I'll keep you posted.

Chris,

sounds pretty intense to move the memory components, may have to lose the passenger memory to get better leather.

 

Yeah, I would too.

 

Don,

Here is more information about the T belt position on the cams >


Timing Belt Wear Question Completed 2-18-07


https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-2-4-07-a.html

Page 5 post # 67 +

 

Herman,

I read through most of the thread, and in Roger's case, on the passenger side the belt was right on the edge, and on the driver's side it was more like mine is. Bill commented on the driver's side it looked fine. Both of mine are 1/16" or so from the edge, similar to Roger's drivers side. I'd be more concerned if they were not the same, or either one was right on the edge, but definately need to keep an eye on it. Now that I've had the covers off a few times, should be no problem to check periodically. Like I said, it is very close to the original wear pattern no the 59k engine cam gears.

WP with pivot bolt was new Laso, didn't replace any rollers since I had receipts of them being replaced in the last few years and they felt fine, and bushings were new. Also didn't remove the rollers from their arms/mounts.

 

Don,

These pictures are of my PS and DS cam gear before changing to the new timing belt and P-tensioner.

My records show the cams had 140K on them and the belt 60K (6yrs for the belt)

I did see another thread that talked about a different size of spacer/circlip that cause the belt to run to far to the front, I'll see if I can find it again.

I would feel better if your belt would be tracking like the one in these pictures.

H

 

Don,

TB/WP Party in the San Francisco Bay Area!! All are invited.


https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-invited.html

Page 5

Post # 73


Best H

 

Great work on this Don! I have really been enjoying following along remotely! Great save my friend! I look forward to seeing you driving the car soon!

 

Your T belt is on backwards. Honestly, I have no idea what difference it makes, but in the 88 MY Service Technique book it says to install the belt so you can read the lettering from the front. I ran with one "backwards" for a long time and saw no issues at all.

Besides the 6 degrees retard from the "missing" Hall sender, you are missing the fuel enrichment from the WOT switch. Make sure the throttle cabes (both halves) are snug with just enough slack (barely any to none) so that the throttle plate still seats on the stop and you can still hear the "click" of the idle switch when you just pull the throttle off the stop a degree or two. If you do not hear the idle click even with slack in the cables, then your throttle position switch is adjusted incorrectly or broken. That could account for the high idle, but the Hammer would have picked that up.

The most common cause for high idle is vacuum/breather leaks, but a faulty MAF can do it. Swapping MAFs with a properly running 85-95 928 can help rule that out. Note that different MAFs can cause much different signals to be given to the LH at any particular airflow, which the LH eventually adjusts for via the closed loop O2 sensor circuit, so run it for a while.

The idler rollers below the crank gear and between the belt on the right side above the main tensioner roller do almost nothing. I usually just clean them up and make sure they spin freely. The belt may occasionally slap them, so if real bad, they could make some noise. You can obtain just the bearings for those rollers at a much lower cost than the full roller and put that on your list for the next timing belt job in 60K miles.

 

Bill,

I was waiting for someone to notice the text on the belt was upside down. I did know about that, but somehow when I swaped the defective belt for the replacement, I didn't think about it. Hard to know if it really makes much of a difference or not. I'm no engineer, but it doesn't seem like it would, but I know the WSM says to install them that way.

What do you think about where the belt is riding on the gears? There are pics in the WSM where the belt is in a similar position.

When you say hear the idle valve, is that with the engine running or off?

I'll try to check the other items you mentioned. There may be some issues with the throttle cables. some of the plastic peices are getting brittle and there may be some slack.

I've been meaning to ask but haven't posted yet, do you ever hear the flappy while driving on the S4? A few times I've heard something about about the right RPM for the flappy to be opening or closing or whatever it does at that point.