Just bought a TBF car
05-31-2011, 11:07 PM
#286
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Right, sorry, 86 on top. Also, the 86 key is further away in the picture because of the shape of the 89 key fob.
Maybe, but I have spark and a working starter...
Maybe, but I have spark and a working starter...
05-31-2011, 11:10 PM
#287
Nordschleife Master
That is why you should paint a band around the base of the key itself right next to the key head in the color of the car... different colors for each car and good to go! No mistakes like that again! Thankfully all of my sharks are different colors and that works for me too!
05-31-2011, 11:10 PM
#288
Rennlist Member
I'm thinking Courtshark is on to something... it could be something designed to break if a theft is attempted (think screwdriver key). May need a whole new ignition switch.
05-31-2011, 11:18 PM
#289
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have an extra 85 ignition switch/key (pictured in my red link below under "steering housing.."), not sure if they are interchangeble.
James, no doubt you need a good system for your keys. I can just picture the rows of hooks on the wall. Must be nice to have that problem.
James, no doubt you need a good system for your keys. I can just picture the rows of hooks on the wall. Must be nice to have that problem.
05-31-2011, 11:24 PM
#290
Nordschleife Master
Don,
It is a GREAT problem to have and I'll make it worse when I finally get back to working again (soon I hope...things are in the works, so fingers are crossed!) I just keep all the keys in the vault room in a chronological row and each car has a different key "pouch" too! LOVE IT!!!
It is a GREAT problem to have and I'll make it worse when I finally get back to working again (soon I hope...things are in the works, so fingers are crossed!) I just keep all the keys in the vault room in a chronological row and each car has a different key "pouch" too! LOVE IT!!!
05-31-2011, 11:49 PM
#292
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I wasn't going to publicly mention the vault, but I figured that's where the keys were, in the safest place in the house.
So I just looked at my 85 ignition switch, and I don't really see how I could have messed anything up. The ignition switch is really two parts, the lock/tumbler section, with a flat shaft that rotates the ignitions switch itself. The electrical switch either turns or doesn't, so using the wrong key shouldn't have any effect on it. The tumbler section is turning fine now and is operating the ignition switch, so not sure where the problem would be. If the ignition switch is activating the starter, ignition system and fuel pump, what else is there? Seems like it has to be the fuel injectors not squirting.
So I just looked at my 85 ignition switch, and I don't really see how I could have messed anything up. The ignition switch is really two parts, the lock/tumbler section, with a flat shaft that rotates the ignitions switch itself. The electrical switch either turns or doesn't, so using the wrong key shouldn't have any effect on it. The tumbler section is turning fine now and is operating the ignition switch, so not sure where the problem would be. If the ignition switch is activating the starter, ignition system and fuel pump, what else is there? Seems like it has to be the fuel injectors not squirting.
Last edited by Don Carter; 05-31-2011 at 11:52 PM. Reason: typo
06-01-2011, 07:00 AM
#294
Three Wheelin'
I had a cracked shaft..
I had a small crack in the shaft between the two parts it caused the electrical switch not to align with the required contacts inside perhaps this is your problem?
The ignition switch is really two parts, the lock/tumbler section, with a flat shaft that rotates the ignitions switch itself. The electrical switch either turns or doesn't, so using the wrong key shouldn't have any effect on it. The tumbler section is turning fine now and is operating the ignition switch, so not sure where the problem would be. If the ignition switch is activating the starter, ignition system and fuel pump, what else is there? Seems like it has to be the fuel injectors not squirting.
06-01-2011, 07:48 AM
#295
Rennlist Member
With a battery in good charge and a good cranking speed, the tach should flicker when the enigne turns.
But you said earlier that the fuel pump runs when cranking ? Doesn't stack up...
You have swapped relays around, make sure you haven't managed to get a 53 relay in slot XV (kickdown) as that will short out the rpm signal to the tach and LH ECU. That rpm signal tells the LH ECU to energise the FP relay.
But you said earlier that the fuel pump runs when cranking ? Doesn't stack up...
You have swapped relays around, make sure you haven't managed to get a 53 relay in slot XV (kickdown) as that will short out the rpm signal to the tach and LH ECU. That rpm signal tells the LH ECU to energise the FP relay.
06-01-2011, 01:12 PM
#296
Nordschleife Master
This is strange. It was trying to start and then dying immediately I'd tell you it was brain failure for sure. My S4 did that (and all the S4's are getting to that age now!) It would seem like it was going to start and then it would die immediately. Never really "catching" and nothing could be done to get it to work... Brain failure. New brain fixed it right away.
06-01-2011, 02:41 PM
#298
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have a receipt showing the computer was replaced a few years ago, only shows labor, so the owner must have sourced a rebuilt, but it could be a failing rebuilt. May try reseating the plugs on the computers tonight.
Filled up recently, and there's good fuel pressure showing on the rail mounted gauge.
Just to recap from previous posts:
- Has spark
- Cam timing looks good
- Fuel pressure looks good
- Tach not moving when cranking <-Probably a good clue
- Battery was disconnected/reconnected
- Doors were locked/unlocked
- The 3 important 53 relays were swapped out with defrost (but was the defrost relay good? May need to do this again)
- Wrong key was used just before problem started
Filled up recently, and there's good fuel pressure showing on the rail mounted gauge.
Just to recap from previous posts:
- Has spark
- Cam timing looks good
- Fuel pressure looks good
- Tach not moving when cranking <-Probably a good clue
- Battery was disconnected/reconnected
- Doors were locked/unlocked
- The 3 important 53 relays were swapped out with defrost (but was the defrost relay good? May need to do this again)
- Wrong key was used just before problem started
06-01-2011, 08:10 PM
#299
Nordschleife Master
Rich Andrade rebuilt mine and says he has rebuilt more than a few "rebuilt" units too. Are you SURE the fuel pump is running? That would be easy enough to check with a jumper or better yet a switched jumper...or a good spare relay...
