DougM

I pulled my motor a couple of weeks ago after a TB break, only to find that my motor is not interference and it did no harm to the valves. While it is out, I decided to do the typical WYIT maintenance like motor mounts, gaskets etc. I plan to install the motor this weekend and currently everything is removed from the motor except the oil pan and the heads, cams and covers. I have an additional Euro '84s that I purchased to steal some parts from which I will get later next week. I plan to use the best part from whichever car as I put it back together and sell the other parts. Is there anything else that I should put back on the car before I install the motor? I don't want to drop the motor in only to find that x or y is nearly impossible to install while the motor is in. I can't really see anything that would be overly difficult, but I figured I would ask. Also, I have a lift so the underside is easily accessible.

pjg

I would take a look at the brake booster, clutch master, and fuel lines.

LT Texan

front shocks, clutch line too. Shifter cup. Torque tube bearings.

Landseer

Wire harness scrutiny and repair.

AO

Clutch master & blue hose.

Ducman82

a good engine bay CLEANING!

fraggle

AC lines and coolant reservoir.

Mrmerlin

posting some pictures of what you have will make this an easier question to answer

tv

As good a thread as any to post this very enjoyable ENGINE BUILD video at AMG from Nat Geo. The SLS engine is so similar to the S4 and it shows precisely how to do a lot of the steps we read about/talk about here; 3:00 mark

Mrmerlin

Doug since you didnt respond with any pictures or further info,
i would suggest to replace the head gaskets now before you install the engine

DougM

I forgot about this thread. The head gaskets has been replaced just over a year ago so I didn't feel the need to do them. Pretty much everything else was replaced: oil pan gasket, oil pump o rings and seal, main seal, rebuilt t-belt tensioner etc.... Motor has been in for a while and I have been intermittently putting it back together. July and August were unbearably hot and I didn't feel like sweating it out in the garage too much. Decided to order new fuel lines for the injectors today so finishing up the top end will be a little longer. Today I was putting the alternator and PS pump back on after I realized that I had tightened the oil cooler lines in the wrong orientation and could not access them with the alternator on. ALso noticed that there is supposed to be a gasket between the alt and the plastic cover, so I ordered that as well today. These pics were taken when the motor was out and then soon after I had it in and had installed a few items.

daveo90s4

If you use the after-market engine mounts you'll find that the bolts on the mounts - top and bottom - are smaller diameter than OEM and hence smaller diameter than the locating hole in the front cross member and smaller diameter than the locating hole in the 'saddles' . As a result it is possible - and very undesirable - to locate the new engine mounts too far inboard so that there is not quite enough clearance for the sump to drop down between the saddles. I'd suggest measuring the distance between original engine mount holes (left - right across vehicle) before removing them so as to get the after-market engine mounts (if using after market engine mounts) in the correct locations.

Livio928

Mercedes video is blocked in Canada due to copyright laws. Bummer. I am in the process of removing and rebuilding my engine. Would have been neat to see.