finally!

Hans, if those of us who got the 10" later wanted to swap out for a 12", what would the process be? Remove spacer and intall or ?

hans14914

Kenny,

That is correct, the adapter will just unscrew, and the adapter/driver combo removed. They are kind of a tight fit, you you may have to carefully place the unit on its face, and whack the back of the enclosure to gently press it out. The new driver should be compatible with the fiberglass mounting flange. The only other work that may need to be done is some sanding of the internal diameter of the mounting hole if the basket rubs (shouldnt by the specs listed on the manufacturers' sites) and the foam used as a gasket can sometimes peel up when the drivers are removed, so you may have to apply a new gasket if your speaker doesnt have a foam gasket bonded to the basket. It is likely you will have to drill new mounting holes in the flange for the bolt pattern of the selected 12" driver.

The above makes it more complicated that it is, the short answer is that the old gear will pop out with minimal effort, and the new stuff will drop right in.

Thanks
Hans

finally!

- Sound with the 10" is excellent, I set the sub to 200 Hz and under. I am running two amps:

the Kenwood Hans recommended which is running the sub and the 6.5" mid's in the rear OEM positions and the ones I put in the lower front door areas. They are set for 200 Hz and up, hi pass

The other amp, another Kenwood, runs the 4" and 1.5" component speakers in the OEM door and rear positions. They have their own dedicated crossovers doing the magic.

Highly suggest getting some right angle RCA adapters like these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102594


Otherwise fitting the amp is a bit tough and could mutilate the RCA cables by mashing them against the enclosure.

I also put DynaMat in the spare tire well, suggest either doing that or the SharkWoofer enclosure itself.

Pagnobito

I made something similar in the UK but only one take up of my kit. However mine is a custom fit to each car because of needing 1cuft volume and also custom fit means it doesn't move about in the spare space. A GTS spare well isn't the same as a 79 so if you make a one fit for all there has to be a space between it and the car, but saying that FG can be strong if thick enough and suitably damped internally with acoustic wadding will prevent back waves and resonance.

I can't see how yours is fixed in place? How do you stop the entire enclosure moving when the coils drive the cone?

I have concerns how you mount the amplifier, they don't like to be fitted upside down because the heat transmits to the PCB, even with the fan, has it been soak tested to see if the amp cuts?

I didn't mount my amp under the sub, that way it was only connected by banana plugs and you could remove the sub box in 30 seconds.

I had pictures of mine posted on a photo sharing site but the site appears to have gone bust! (not that I was thinking of selling them). I also made custom aluminium speaker mounts for the door mids, tweeters and 6.5" behind the seats, fixing the latter to the inner skin rather than the pressed paper trim! It really helped clarity, absolutely no distortion or vibration even when it was too loud to be comfortable to listen to, that is when the SPL moves your shirt. And that was with a 400w amp!

finally!

Having installed mine yesterday I can say it fits pretty tight. It is not bolted down or similar. For the slight bit of movement possible of the enclosure itself I simply wedged some hard/dense foam I had laying around.

hans14914

Pagnobito,

It may not be the ultimate in performance, but it does a very good job with very limited installation work. It is not the perfect solution for everyone, but I think it is a good one for many people. It is held in place by the stock spare tire cover retaining clip. Ideally, we would be using a more inert material, such as MDF, but I could not make an MDF enclosure that would fit with an amplifier.

Regarding the colling of the amp, the amp itself has an internal fan which draws air across the heatsinks inside. The fan on the mounting board is just to help exchange the air inside the spare tire well, providing the amp's internal cooling fan with adequately cool air.

I do need to get better pictures up, and will try and do that soon.

I dont recall ever running across your solution, if you happen to have a thread detailing the features of your system, I would encourage you to post it. For those who don't find my solution ideal, they may find yours a better option.

Thanks
Hans

Pagnobito

Hi Hans,

I will find the pictures and put a link to them, probably in your development thread. I thought I had posted them on here somewhere but I can't find them so probably didn't!
I wasn't digging at your product, it looks like a very nice professionally produced and elegant design. I would love to hear it but I am a bit far away. I am visiting the US in October going from New York to San Fran with places in between.
The 928 certainly needs a subwoofer in any upgrade as the space behind the woofers in the rear quarters is very limited, generally 6.5" speakers have a door as the box (although lossy and not sealed). You also loose a fair amount of frequency at the low end from road and engine noise so a sub level remote control is also a great idea as I found tuning mine on the drive was quite different to when driving it.
I used strips of Velcro tape on the underside of mine to further help it stop moving about. I left my FG natural, once it is in place you can't see it. I wish I knew about the board you used for the top, I used MDF, well you will see how I did it when I find the pictures. I made a mistake, I have three customers, I sold my GT so my prototype sub box went to another GT owner, I carried out a complete install in a GTS (he is blown away by it) and waiting to meet up with the third customer to see if my blank fits his trunk before I finish it.
I have a 79 but that doesn't need one as I only really use it for the track.

Maleficio

Very nice, Hans and Paul.

Question: are the two slots beside the fan intended to be handles? If not, it seems some recessed hard handles would be very useful.

finally!

Dont think so (Hans will chime in I am sure)... My take is they are for cooling air circulation, not big enough to be handles...

hans14914

Kenny is correct, they are there for some added circulation. They are centered right over the primary intakes for the amplifiers internal cooling fan. They did not effect the structural integrity of the board on my highly scientific "bend" test, so figured they couldnt hurt when it came to cooling.

As far as a handle goes, the material is 0.5" thick, so pretty easy to get a grip on an edge to lift it back out.

Thanks
Hans

finally!

As a personal FYI... Quality of build is top notch, if you are an "audio snob", defined by my experience as those who think the only way to go is with $1,900.00 per set Focal speakers, multi $1,000+ amps, etc. and look down on those who dont spend their retirment savings on a setup, move on. For 99% of us this is much more than adequate. I got the 10" sub and see frankly no need for anything bigger in a 928. I was quoted approx $1,000 for a local stereo shop to build an enclosure for my 928 and seriously doubt it would have looked as nice or sounded any better. And that did not even include the woofer!

My system consists of
Becker CDR-220
5 Channel Kenwood amp installed in the SharkWoofer, other 4 channels drive 6.5" MB Quart speakers, 1 in front lower forward doors and the others in the stock rear position and the sub
4 channel Kenwoo amp attached behind drivers side rear seat. Driving the 4"/2" component MB Quart speakers in the doors and rear OEM locations.

I would suggest that you dynamat the spare tire well first though and definitely get the right angle RCA adpapters, makes install much easier!

Pagnobito

I don't think you even need go that far, mine is a Pioneer media player (no CD) feeding a 4 channel amp, front two channels high pass drive a 3 way component set 2.5" mid and tweeter in stock locations of door with custom aluminium baffle (hidden), 6.5" in stock location at rear also mounted on aluminium ring. The other two channels on the amp are bridged and Low pass filtered to the sub in the spare location, amp sits on the rear deck with cover to match the sub. Those door speakers are quite high and give a nice airy sound without any need for mids or tweeters in the rear.
I used DLS 3 ways, but also fitted JBL 3 way set in another car, JBL are cheaper and you can tell the difference in dynamics and they strain at higher levels, the DLS did not and sounded great at all levels.
All I would say is make sure any large magnet speakers, even the 6.5" are fixed securly to the metal of the car not the trim. Your speakers at home in your hifi are not fixed to card, rather more solid baffle of high density material.
I am no audiophile but I don't want vibration or distortion in my music and I want do that at minimum cost!
As for the audio shop, that will be mostly labour charge I guess, I bet Hans hasn't built development and his time leading towards the prototype into the price so you are getting a great deal. My box in GBP would be about the same if converted to USD.

RKD in OKC

Oh man, I sure wish I could still find the components I set up my 90 GT with.

When I got the car it had a false floor on the rear deck that had cutouts for the 2 alpine amps. It had the amps mounted in the cutouts and was covered with carpet looking cloth. The whole thing was just under 1-1/2 inches thick (basically the thickness of the very thin Alpine Amps.

When I upgraded the rest of the equipment there was no such thing as MP3 or iPod and Infinity Kappa components were available.

The Alpine Amps were 4x100 and 2x100. I replaced the aging head unit with a Nakamichi in-dash CD changer. In the stock door and rear deck locations I put Infinity Kappa 4"-1" components with their own crossovers (direct replacement for stock). In the rear seat bolsters 6-1/2 location I put JL Audio's new then, now I can't find any 6 inch subwoofers. Yep 6 in subs in the stock woofer locations. For sub crossover and to provide a stage I put a Rockford Fosgate Surround Sound Processor. The Surround Processor provided output to the 4 channel amp for the door and deck components, and did subwoofer band pass left and right subs going to the 2 channel amp for the 6 inch subs in the rear bolsters.

Man, it sounded GREAT! And I have not really seen a better mounting of multiple Amps in a 928. The false rear deck had a cut out to mount a huge subwoofer so it could fill the spare tire well, but since I found those 6in JL Audio subs I didn't need it and was still able to carry a spare.

The 2 6inch subs did really well thumpin out the bass.

Really hoping I can match the sound and stage when I upgrade my current stock stuff to the 928carputer.

Rob Edwards

You mean like this?

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ale-socal.html

Ducman82

this has prob been covered, in that HUGE carputer thread, but how does the audio work with that?