New Product: *** The SharkWoofer ***
#121
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Join Date: Dec 2009
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Absolutely. Just got back from an early morning ride, mostly to listen to the tunes. The streaming is really nice. After I paired the phone I was scrolling through the source options and stopped on Streaming, thinking I would have to do another setup. It immediately started playing the music from my phone. Still have a lot to do as far as learning all the capabilities of the unit but for $150 so far it is great.
#122
Electron Wrangler
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The whole point is to avoid the noise coupled due to voltage differences between supplies (power & esp. ground) caused by high currents due to other equipment switching... referencing both ground & power to the same point eliminates this differentially coupled noise. Its not the easiest to do but it is the best method, you still need some noise supression on the power rail because it can still have power noise - e.g. alternator ripple.
Most audio installers (except real hgih end pros) would never consider this - its just too much work for them - In many instances the benefit may not be needed. However it's still the best way - esp. if you have remaining noise issues...
Alan
#123
Rennlist Member
Question...I was thinking of getting the "SharkWoofer" I have a factory radio, speakers etc. Would this still be an "easy" install or do I need to purchased a new head unit along with speakers etc.
#124
Rennlist Member
Rissac928,
It is possible to install a Sharkwoofer (or any subwoofer) with the factory headunit and speakers. However, at least one amplifier would need to be purchased (Kenwood XR-1S for the sharkwoofer - thats the mono model).
The only challenge would be getting a line-level output from the factory head-unit. I would contact SW Stereo and see if they would make you an adapter to pull the line-level from the din connector. Unless you want an absolutely stock looking setup, you are likely better off to install a newer headunit. You may want to reference this thread for opinions on good headunit options:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-928-a.html
Hans
It is possible to install a Sharkwoofer (or any subwoofer) with the factory headunit and speakers. However, at least one amplifier would need to be purchased (Kenwood XR-1S for the sharkwoofer - thats the mono model).
The only challenge would be getting a line-level output from the factory head-unit. I would contact SW Stereo and see if they would make you an adapter to pull the line-level from the din connector. Unless you want an absolutely stock looking setup, you are likely better off to install a newer headunit. You may want to reference this thread for opinions on good headunit options:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-928-a.html
Hans
#126
#127
Three Wheelin'
No - you do indeed want a single ground point for everything. If that dictates long wires in some cases so be it - make them as big as you can and ground the highest power consumer (amp?) to the best local short ground and wire the rest to that. My amps are in the back - makes for nice short power & grounds - so my head unit & pre-amp power & grounds are fed forward from that location, my switched audio supply is fed from the same source & is just locally switched with a relay controlled by the R terminal on the ignition switch.
The whole point is to avoid the noise coupled due to voltage differences between supplies (power & esp. ground) caused by high currents due to other equipment switching... referencing both ground & power to the same point eliminates this differentially coupled noise. Its not the easiest to do but it is the best method, you still need some noise supression on the power rail because it can still have power noise - e.g. alternator ripple.
Most audio installers (except real hgih end pros) would never consider this - its just too much work for them - In many instances the benefit may not be needed. However it's still the best way - esp. if you have remaining noise issues...
Alan
The whole point is to avoid the noise coupled due to voltage differences between supplies (power & esp. ground) caused by high currents due to other equipment switching... referencing both ground & power to the same point eliminates this differentially coupled noise. Its not the easiest to do but it is the best method, you still need some noise supression on the power rail because it can still have power noise - e.g. alternator ripple.
Most audio installers (except real hgih end pros) would never consider this - its just too much work for them - In many instances the benefit may not be needed. However it's still the best way - esp. if you have remaining noise issues...
Alan
Assuming gear isn't rubbish then all that is needed for HU is a solid ground to avoid a voltage difference of signal, at amps. For practical reasons it makes sense to use a common point for all amps/processors in the back even if it means some are longer, as most noise sources are in front of car(911s excepted) then the longer cable is unlikely to cause a ground loop or pick up noise and is referenced to same point as other amps/procs.
Most High end installers will not use a factory ground wire for the HU and will seek out a solid ground and that is enough to avoid induced noise. The whole point is to avoid voltage differences of the signals reference. In some instances a dedicated power wire is used too but that is only for higher current draw situations and the quirks of some brands(like pioneer) that can have noise if power lead isn't large enough(voltage related).
Anyway you do want solid grounds. We bare metal ground points, use bolts or star washers with screws, etc to get that, but we do not run long grounds above another ground(chassis) for a very good reason and it is not being lazy as suggested above, it's actually because we know what we are doing and don't reach for band aids like noise suppressors and also that we do not fit rubbish equipment. That would be like modding a motor for more power and then fitting retreads. A good install with good equipment will not have noise and definitely won't have all grounds running from a single point
peace
Cyberpunky
BTW great product and nothing would even come close to same results without a much larger budget. Well done
#128
Rennlist Member
I had several requests for these over the past month of so. I finally received four more fiberglass enclosures. Unfortunately, these may be the last batch, as the mold was pretty much destroyed with these last pulls.
I still have some of the original design for the Kenwood XR-5s in stock, and will make a couple for the new replacement XR900-5.
Thanks,
Hans
I still have some of the original design for the Kenwood XR-5s in stock, and will make a couple for the new replacement XR900-5.
Thanks,
Hans
#129
Rennlist Member
As discussed previously, dibs on one for the XR900-5 :-)
#130
Aloha Hans!
Looking for a replacement for my Bazooka which was stolen a few weeks ago, I never thought a SharkWoofer would be an option. Then I just noticed your signature in another thread. And then I just read Post #128...
So... the SharkWoofer is NLA, yes?
-tom
PS: I have not read this thread in its' entirety, but if something is indeed available, I would definitely like one.
Looking for a replacement for my Bazooka which was stolen a few weeks ago, I never thought a SharkWoofer would be an option. Then I just noticed your signature in another thread. And then I just read Post #128...
So... the SharkWoofer is NLA, yes?
-tom
PS: I have not read this thread in its' entirety, but if something is indeed available, I would definitely like one.