Is it ok to use a wood block with floor jack under the steering rack to lift front end ?
Thanks
Thomas

 

I've done it (without a wood block) several times. Seems to be fine. Hardest part is getting the jack that far under the car, but if you can, it should be fine.

 

I jack it up at the factory spots to start then to the rack. Thanks for the quick reply.
Thomas

 

I usually jack the front of the car up at the front lower control arm bolt location,
Note make sure the jack pad captures the tiedown portion of the brace

Once the car is up then place a jackstand under the factory jack point behind the wheel,
then with a block of wood on the jack pad,
jack the car up at the crosmember where the rack is, this is one of the strongest parts of the car,
the rack is covered with a piece of sheetmetal so you wont actually be jacking on the rack

 

Let's see - is it OK to put 1800 pounds of point loading on a very expensive tubular aluminum casting because it is easy...

I won't.

 

The weight isn't going onto the tubular portion, so I will (and have with ill effect).

 

Why not jack at the lower control arm bolt location? That's the best place to lift, then jack stands under the jack points. I would not jack under the steering rack, and that cross member there doesn't look very robust to me.

 

Wally please explain your post??

 

I use the block of wood to not damage the threads on the bolts sticking through. It does work the best for me as I stack blocks of wood under all four tires which allows me to get my 928 high enough to clear my belly!
I see enough evidence to continue.
Thanks to all
Thomas

 

Me too. I always jack from the rear side jacking points to place jack stands under the front side jacking points. The car's front to rear weight distribution makes it easy.

 

I do not like using those factory jack points. They are ok for jack stands. I believe Porsche just settled for those locations. I don't like the torque it puts on the frame when jacking rear for front jack stand placement.
Thomas

 

"Me too. I always jack from the rear side jacking points to place jack stands under the front side jacking points. The car's front to rear weight distribution makes it easy. "


I dont recommend this, This will put more stress on you your chassis,
its not necessary to follow this procedure

 

Your claim about over stressing the chassis is quite alarming.

 

just for grins then with the front end off the ground try loosening the engine cross brace, you will see quite a bit of movement of the bolts.
I know there is a bit in the WSM about the windshield cracking if the bar is loosened,
however I have never seen one crack and i usually remove it prior to jacking.

that said next time you have the rear jacked up on one corner try opening either one of the doors you will see how much bind lifting the car at this spot will cause.


Of course this will also apply to some extent to jacking from under the front lower crossmember tie down as the chassis will be getting twisted ,
the twist will be less than jacking up at the rear side then letting the car down on a jackstand placed at the front pad.
The twist wont be as much if jacked at the front,
Though it would be better to jack from under the front or rear crossmember with a block of wood between the car and jack pad,
note you could always drive up on a block of wood to increase the ride height this will let your jack fit under the front of the car.

Optimum would be to have a lift to lift at all 4 jack pads simultaneously

 

If you dont like that..dont take any fast turns, dont accelerate really hard, and never go up an un-even driveway entry.


??