Jacking car under steering rack
#31
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On those jobs in the engine bay where the cross brace is in the way, the WSM specifically says to remove the cross brace before lifting the car. I nver remove the brace once the wheels are up. It comes off first (or not at all, depending on the job). I think the windshield cracking situations result from removing the brace once the car is up.
Anyone ever documented this?
That would have to be one screwy loose chassis to allow that to happen.
The firewall is the strongest part of the car...its not gonna spread.
#32
Former Vendor
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is a long thread but it points to an alternate approach.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ackstands.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ackstands.html
#33
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I'm not using a lift or lift bars (Yes, I use Porkens Lift bars all the time) I will jack up the rear of the car using the cross member. Place jack stands on the jack points.
Then take the jack and center it on the front cross member from behind the front wheels and jack it up until it is just above even with the rear. Place jack stands on the front jack points and then lower the car. Pull the jack out and get to work.
I do not recommend using the rear jack point and lifting the entire car up and placing a jack stand on the front, and repeating that, and then lifing the rear. You lose any stability you had after the first jacking.
These are just my opinions, do with them as you will.
Then take the jack and center it on the front cross member from behind the front wheels and jack it up until it is just above even with the rear. Place jack stands on the front jack points and then lower the car. Pull the jack out and get to work.
I do not recommend using the rear jack point and lifting the entire car up and placing a jack stand on the front, and repeating that, and then lifing the rear. You lose any stability you had after the first jacking.
These are just my opinions, do with them as you will.
#34
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was at the track the other day and there was a guy w/ a ZO6 who jacked up the whole side of his car from just behind the door. "Wow" I says "So easy!" Yep he says the car is pretty rigid.
Made me want a set of liftbars... and wish there was a central jacking point.
Made me want a set of liftbars... and wish there was a central jacking point.
#35
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I always lift one side of the old very brown 1980 high enough to change both tires....Do it quite often as I swap wheels for the track. Just use the rear jack point and up it goes. Probably far less stress than it gets running on the track
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)