Was thinking of replacing this:








With this. But I'm worried about heat.








What if I remove the existing insulation and replace with "self bonding silicone wrap"?

 

You don't need any insulation.

 

You don't want water trapped under the insulation.

 

Why do you want insulation?
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?

Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.

 

Now that's a nice crimp tool!!!

 

I don't "want" insulation, it's just that those parts were available at no cost. If i remove the insulation, I'm not sure the remaining wire would be "robust" enough.

 

Got it from work. I design elevator controls. Deal with a lot of high current motors.

You should see the fuses. Try dual 100 HP motors on 208V AC. Those fuses are at least four times bigger than my dick (or is that half as big?). And they cost abou $75.00 each!

 

The existing ground cable looks better than 9 out of 10 I see. It looks almost new in the pictures. Why are you looking to replace a perfectly good part?

 

Car won't start. Everyone keeps telling me to "check grounds". Recently read where someone replaced this and it made a huge difference.

 

0.1% chance that that ground cable is your no-start problem. I've seen'em so green with corrosion that the not-so-much-copper-anymore was flaking off and the car still started.

Checking and cleaning grounds is good for when you have random gremlins and for preventing random gremlins. You don't have a random gremlin.

First figure out if you have spark and then if you have fuel. Then chase gremlins if you have neither.

 

I second worf's suggestion. It might be worthwhile to clean and check the connections, but that's all that I would do.

 

They may have been referring to the battery ground strap, which goes from the battery to the wingnut connection at the rear.

That strap is insulated (can't see why it needs to be seeing it's an earth), and can have corrosion which you can't see because of the insulation. When they cause problems they become resistive at high starting current, and yet test OK with a multimeter.

I agree that your engine ground looks fine, but it would still be worth cleaning the contact surfaces and re-fixing.

Sounds like you need to check and clean all power and ground connections in your start circuits ... but it's definitely worth checking the rear ground strap first. You could substitute some known good cable to check.

 

Symtoms are random. Sometimes spark, sometimes not. Sometimes injectors, sometimes not. Sometimes RPM signal from EZF to LH, sometimes not. Ect.

 

Have you serviced the grounds at the CE panel?

 

Been through all that.