Engine Ground
Why do you want insulation?
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?
Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?
Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.
Why do you want insulation?
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?
Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?
Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.
Got it from work. I design elevator controls. Deal with a lot of high current motors.
You should see the fuses. Try dual 100 HP motors on 208V AC. Those fuses are at least four times bigger than my dick (or is that half as big?). And they cost abou $75.00 each!
You should see the fuses. Try dual 100 HP motors on 208V AC. Those fuses are at least four times bigger than my dick (or is that half as big?). And they cost abou $75.00 each!
Last edited by depami; Jan 14, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Car won't start. Everyone keeps telling me to "check grounds". Recently read where someone replaced this and it made a huge difference.
Checking and cleaning grounds is good for when you have random gremlins and for preventing random gremlins. You don't have a random gremlin.
First figure out if you have spark and then if you have fuel. Then chase gremlins if you have neither.
That strap is insulated (can't see why it needs to be seeing it's an earth), and can have corrosion which you can't see because of the insulation. When they cause problems they become resistive at high starting current, and yet test OK with a multimeter.
I agree that your engine ground looks fine, but it would still be worth cleaning the contact surfaces and re-fixing.
Sounds like you need to check and clean all power and ground connections in your start circuits ... but it's definitely worth checking the rear ground strap first. You could substitute some known good cable to check.
They may have been referring to the battery ground strap, which goes from the battery to the wingnut connection at the rear.
That strap is insulated (can't see why it needs to be seeing it's an earth), and can have corrosion which you can't see because of the insulation. When they cause problems they become resistive at high starting current, and yet test OK with a multimeter.
I agree that your engine ground looks fine, but it would still be worth cleaning the contact surfaces and re-fixing.
Sounds like you need to check and clean all power and ground connections in your start circuits ... but it's definitely worth checking the rear ground strap first. You could substitute some known good cable to check.
That strap is insulated (can't see why it needs to be seeing it's an earth), and can have corrosion which you can't see because of the insulation. When they cause problems they become resistive at high starting current, and yet test OK with a multimeter.
I agree that your engine ground looks fine, but it would still be worth cleaning the contact surfaces and re-fixing.
Sounds like you need to check and clean all power and ground connections in your start circuits ... but it's definitely worth checking the rear ground strap first. You could substitute some known good cable to check.
Strap5.jpg
Strap4.jpg
Strap3.jpg
Symtoms are random. Sometimes spark, sometimes not. Sometimes injectors, sometimes not. Sometimes RPM signal from EZF to LH, sometimes not. Ect.



