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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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Default Engine Ground

Was thinking of replacing this:

Wire1.jpg

Wire2.jpg

Wire3.jpg


With this. But I'm worried about heat.


Wire4.jpg

Wire5.jpg

Wire6.jpg

What if I remove the existing insulation and replace with "self bonding silicone wrap"?
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:23 PM
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You don't need any insulation.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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You don't want water trapped under the insulation.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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Why do you want insulation?
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?

Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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Now that's a nice crimp tool!!!
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RCinXS
Why do you want insulation?
Do you drive through a lot of snow or water?
How long did the original last?
Does it have poor continuity?
Why not just run 2 without insulation?

Or if you are worried about any of the above, run a thicker naked cable.
But remember, it's supposed to have some flex.
I don't "want" insulation, it's just that those parts were available at no cost. If i remove the insulation, I'm not sure the remaining wire would be "robust" enough.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Now that's a nice crimp tool!!!
Got it from work. I design elevator controls. Deal with a lot of high current motors.

You should see the fuses. Try dual 100 HP motors on 208V AC. Those fuses are at least four times bigger than my dick (or is that half as big?). And they cost abou $75.00 each!

Last edited by depami; Jan 14, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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The existing ground cable looks better than 9 out of 10 I see. It looks almost new in the pictures. Why are you looking to replace a perfectly good part?
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by worf928
The existing ground cable looks better than 9 out of 10 I see. It looks almost new in the pictures. Why are you looking to replace a perfectly good part?
Car won't start. Everyone keeps telling me to "check grounds". Recently read where someone replaced this and it made a huge difference.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by depami
Car won't start. Everyone keeps telling me to "check grounds". Recently read where someone replaced this and it made a huge difference.
0.1% chance that that ground cable is your no-start problem. I've seen'em so green with corrosion that the not-so-much-copper-anymore was flaking off and the car still started.

Checking and cleaning grounds is good for when you have random gremlins and for preventing random gremlins. You don't have a random gremlin.

First figure out if you have spark and then if you have fuel. Then chase gremlins if you have neither.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 11:39 PM
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I second worf's suggestion. It might be worthwhile to clean and check the connections, but that's all that I would do.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by depami
Car won't start. Everyone keeps telling me to "check grounds". Recently read where someone replaced this and it made a huge difference.
They may have been referring to the battery ground strap, which goes from the battery to the wingnut connection at the rear.

That strap is insulated (can't see why it needs to be seeing it's an earth), and can have corrosion which you can't see because of the insulation. When they cause problems they become resistive at high starting current, and yet test OK with a multimeter.

I agree that your engine ground looks fine, but it would still be worth cleaning the contact surfaces and re-fixing.

Sounds like you need to check and clean all power and ground connections in your start circuits ... but it's definitely worth checking the rear ground strap first. You could substitute some known good cable to check.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave928S
They may have been referring to the battery ground strap, which goes from the battery to the wingnut connection at the rear.

That strap is insulated (can't see why it needs to be seeing it's an earth), and can have corrosion which you can't see because of the insulation. When they cause problems they become resistive at high starting current, and yet test OK with a multimeter.

I agree that your engine ground looks fine, but it would still be worth cleaning the contact surfaces and re-fixing.

Sounds like you need to check and clean all power and ground connections in your start circuits ... but it's definitely worth checking the rear ground strap first. You could substitute some known good cable to check.
Strap10.jpg

Strap5.jpg

Strap4.jpg

Strap3.jpg

Symtoms are random. Sometimes spark, sometimes not. Sometimes injectors, sometimes not. Sometimes RPM signal from EZF to LH, sometimes not. Ect.
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 12:40 AM
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Have you serviced the grounds at the CE panel?
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Old Jan 15, 2011 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by dcrasta
Have you serviced the grounds at the CE panel?
Been through all that.

CEF.jpg

CER.jpg
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