atb

Now that a handful of us will be installing our new Lindsey valve springs In the near future I'm curious what people will be using for assembly lube. In particular, I'm curious about opinions on valve stem assembly lube. Stick with motor oil, or use an actual assembly lube on the valve stem?

Anyone care to share?

Lizard928

I will be using an assembly lube, and putting a couple bottles of ZDDP into the motor oil.

If this is being installed with a new cam/lifter combo, I would be starting and bringing the idle to 1800-2000 RPM for 20 min.

atb

Torco sells an MPZ Spray lube for valve trains. Could be an option?
What happens after the first twenty minutes Colin, drive it like you stole it?

Mrmerlin

shut it off then let it cool and check for leaks, replace the oil filter.( inspect for metal)
then drive easily, vary the RPMS to about 75% of max for about 500 miles then change the oil and filter.

Lizard928

Stan,

That is for the initial break in of rings etc.

For the cams/tappets that doesnt matter. And yes Adam, you know me well, drive it like you stole it! Enjoy the additional power!

Mrmerlin

-Colin isnt this a complete rebuilt engine??
If not follow the oil filter swap out advice the drive it like you stole it. Change the oil and filter at 500 miles

atb

Thank for the input Stan, mine will be all new. Currently trying to source lash caps from Ferrea.

Lizard928

Adam,

Why do you need lash caps??? Has that much been removed from the cams?

atb

DEVEK B-1's have a 2mm reduced base circle.
Ferrea has this set up that looks cool. The lashcap is integrated into the retainer. I've asked for availability on this for my application, but they probably don't carry it. Looks like they are focusing on domestics and ricer imports these days based upon their online catalog.

GregBBRD

We have lash caps made in 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 millimeter thicknesses.

Interesting idea on the captive lash cap...of course, if the valves don't float, you never need to go to that trouble.