steering wheel alignment
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,919
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From: Austin, Texas
steering wheel alignment
I am finally driving my 79 and although it tracks well from an alignment perspective given all the work I have done on the front end the steering wheel is not straight / aligned, off by about a 1/6th of a turn. I have not messed with the steering up to this point.
I need to pull the pod to address some instrument guage issues. Any problem with just realigning the steering wheel on reinstallation to get it closer to the correct position?
I still have to replace the lower ball joints as they are not steel and will need a real alignment once I am done jacking up the front end all the time but having the steering wheel cocked that much is an annoyance.
Thanks.
I need to pull the pod to address some instrument guage issues. Any problem with just realigning the steering wheel on reinstallation to get it closer to the correct position?
I still have to replace the lower ball joints as they are not steel and will need a real alignment once I am done jacking up the front end all the time but having the steering wheel cocked that much is an annoyance.
Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
It's not a problem but because of the play in the wheel, you might not get it perfect unless you park it with the wheels straight and the steering wheel in the middle of it's play, pull the wheel and center it then mark it so you can it back on in the centered location.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 6,469
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From: Ball Ground, GA
Not a problem in the short term, but in the long run you want the rack centered when the car is going straight.
This is done by removing the plastic bolt that is in line with the steering shaft on the front side of the rack. There is a dimple in the rack that shows in the hole when the rack is centered. There is a special tool - basically a pointed bolt - that is screwed into the hole while the suspension is being aligned. You can make the tool easily by grinding a metric bolt that fits the hole.
The steering wheel should be removed and straightened with the bolt holding the rack...
This is done by removing the plastic bolt that is in line with the steering shaft on the front side of the rack. There is a dimple in the rack that shows in the hole when the rack is centered. There is a special tool - basically a pointed bolt - that is screwed into the hole while the suspension is being aligned. You can make the tool easily by grinding a metric bolt that fits the hole.
The steering wheel should be removed and straightened with the bolt holding the rack...
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Joined: May 2008
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From: 2706 Skyline Drive, Grand Junction CO 81506
The problem with some of this advise is that your front wheels may be in alignment with the car, but not with the rack centered. If that is that case, unless you want to have it re-aligned, you need to simply determine how far off the steering wheel is when going straight ahead, then simply remove the steering wheel and set it as close to centered as you can get it given the fixed number of splines in the shaft.
One sixth of a turn is 36 degrees and there are 40 splines on the shaft, so moving it 4 splines will make it exact. On the other hand, the closest you might be able to come is 4 degrees if the present displacement is not exactly one sixth.
If you center the rack and then center the wheel, you may not be in the center of the present alignment unless the rack was centered when it was aligned.
I hope this helps. Jerry Feather
One sixth of a turn is 36 degrees and there are 40 splines on the shaft, so moving it 4 splines will make it exact. On the other hand, the closest you might be able to come is 4 degrees if the present displacement is not exactly one sixth.
If you center the rack and then center the wheel, you may not be in the center of the present alignment unless the rack was centered when it was aligned.
I hope this helps. Jerry Feather
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,742
Likes: 78
From: Minneapolis
All good advice.
Let me propose a combination:
For now, pull the steering wheel and put it back so it's level when going straight.
Next time you get it aligned, center the rack and then re-mount the steering wheel to be close. Then you'll have a level wheel and equal turning radius to both sides.
Cripes... I've done this operation many times. I've gotten used to driving around with it 1/2 spline off. Bothers some people. I'll get it right...next time.
Let me propose a combination:
For now, pull the steering wheel and put it back so it's level when going straight.
Next time you get it aligned, center the rack and then re-mount the steering wheel to be close. Then you'll have a level wheel and equal turning radius to both sides.
Cripes... I've done this operation many times. I've gotten used to driving around with it 1/2 spline off. Bothers some people. I'll get it right...next time.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 3
From: Camarillo, CA, USA
Moving the spline position is for gross adjustments.
For gross adjustment, do what Wally said, except after centering the rack with the plastic inspection cap removed, realign the steering wheel by changing the spline positions of the U-joint at the input shaft of the steering rack. This is much easier than removing the steering wheel inside the car and may be the actual source of your problem. You may not need the bolt to hold the rack in position either.
For fine adjustments of steering wheel alignment, adjust both tie rod ends the same amount so as not to affect the wheel alignment.
For gross adjustment, do what Wally said, except after centering the rack with the plastic inspection cap removed, realign the steering wheel by changing the spline positions of the U-joint at the input shaft of the steering rack. This is much easier than removing the steering wheel inside the car and may be the actual source of your problem. You may not need the bolt to hold the rack in position either.
For fine adjustments of steering wheel alignment, adjust both tie rod ends the same amount so as not to affect the wheel alignment.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,919
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From: Austin, Texas
Thanks all.
I have no history on the car other than what I have done. When I changed out the tie rods I tried to get them back to where the previous ones were set but without knowing how thew car tracked as it was not drivable.
I still need to swap out the lower ball joints and will do that over the holidays and then need to put some miles on her to let the suspension settle before doing the alignment.
I have no history on the car other than what I have done. When I changed out the tie rods I tried to get them back to where the previous ones were set but without knowing how thew car tracked as it was not drivable.
I still need to swap out the lower ball joints and will do that over the holidays and then need to put some miles on her to let the suspension settle before doing the alignment.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,179
Likes: 4,172
From: Philly PA
one other thing ,
DONT drive the car till the lower aluminum ball joints are replaced, they fail without warning and the wheel will scrub the fender and require major body repair.
Also clean the eccentrics so they turn freely add some anti seize to the bearing surfaces , this way the mechanic doing the alignment wont strip out the adjusters
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ht=ball+joints
DONT drive the car till the lower aluminum ball joints are replaced, they fail without warning and the wheel will scrub the fender and require major body repair.
Also clean the eccentrics so they turn freely add some anti seize to the bearing surfaces , this way the mechanic doing the alignment wont strip out the adjusters
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ht=ball+joints
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
No, but Roger has them specific for the purpose.
Its a short set of threads
Would need to be ground to a center point, else maybe center-drilled at the end to accept a short small diam insert.
I've been getting the cars aligned at Sears. The tech eyeballs it / centers the dimple and just aligns it without the bolt, carefully.
Don't go far on those ball joints. Really.
Its a short set of threads
Would need to be ground to a center point, else maybe center-drilled at the end to accept a short small diam insert.
I've been getting the cars aligned at Sears. The tech eyeballs it / centers the dimple and just aligns it without the bolt, carefully.
Don't go far on those ball joints. Really.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,919
Likes: 13
From: Austin, Texas
No, but Roger has them specific for the purpose.
Its a short set of threads
Would need to be ground to a center point, else maybe center-drilled at the end to accept a short small diam insert.
I've been getting the cars aligned at Sears. The tech eyeballs it / centers the dimple and just aligns it without the bolt, carefully.
Don't go far on those ball joints. Really.
Its a short set of threads
Would need to be ground to a center point, else maybe center-drilled at the end to accept a short small diam insert.
I've been getting the cars aligned at Sears. The tech eyeballs it / centers the dimple and just aligns it without the bolt, carefully.
Don't go far on those ball joints. Really.
Not moving again until replaced. I have the new ball joints and eccentrics in the garage
