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Old 12-08-2010, 01:35 PM
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R.Pires
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Default Top-end refresh

HI,

As recommended by the expert members of the Forum, I always try to do all the possible work in my car.
It's a way to save some money but specially to know and better understand our cars.
After some simple jobs over the last two years, like distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, belts, green wire, re-tensioning TB, etc. I'm tempted to do a top-end refresh.
Anyway, as I understand it's not an easy job like the ones I've made before I would like to have a step by step instruction of that job, like there are some others around in the Forum, all very helpful.
I've searched around but no luck.
Is there anything like that for a top-end refresh? And if it included all the needed parts for the job, gaskets, seals, etc. that would be a great help.
Without something like that I think I won't risk doing that job....
Thanks in advance for your help.

Regards
Old 12-08-2010, 01:58 PM
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stevedavies
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Do a search for Rennlist member Dwayne ( Sir). He posted a comprehensive account of an intake refresh. I followed it when I did mine recently. it covers all the issues you will be faced with.
Old 12-08-2010, 02:00 PM
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BPG_Austin
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http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
Old 12-08-2010, 02:10 PM
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Speedtoys
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Originally Posted by R.Pires
HI,

As recommended by the expert members of the Forum, I always try to do all the possible work in my car.
It's a way to save some money but specially to know and better understand our cars.
After some simple jobs over the last two years, like distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires, belts, green wire, re-tensioning TB, etc. I'm tempted to do a top-end refresh.
Anyway, as I understand it's not an easy job like the ones I've made before I would like to have a step by step instruction of that job, like there are some others around in the Forum, all very helpful.
I've searched around but no luck.
Is there anything like that for a top-end refresh? And if it included all the needed parts for the job, gaskets, seals, etc. that would be a great help.
Without something like that I think I won't risk doing that job....
Thanks in advance for your help.

Regards

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...ke Refresh.htm
Old 12-08-2010, 02:55 PM
  #5  
Mrmerlin
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FWIW the intake refresh is primarily focused on the 87 and later engines,
due to the failing connectors of the hall, and knock sensors plus the other parts that are not easily replaced.
For your car simply inspecting the vacuum lines and other assorted hoses should be all you need to do .
If your having engine running issues then you ought to post the symptoms.
The usual fail point for the early 16V engines is the headgaskets beginning to weep,
look along the inside of the V where the heads meet the block, evidenced by white crusty deposits along the HG.

Also the cam tower to head , gaskets will leak oil and the rear cork gaskets fail on the tower ends.
If you dont see any of these leaks then run IT!
Old 12-08-2010, 09:04 PM
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R.Pires
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Hi,

Thanks for the answers. I knew the Dwayne document but as it applies to 32v cars I thought it was a lot different from the 16v cars.

Mrmerlin,
Thanks for the tips. I don't have any running issues, in fact the car is better than ever, I just thought a top end refresh could be part of maintenance “before” I have any issues!
Thanks for clarifying that difference between 16v and 32v cars.
In fact it doesn't consume any oil, don't leave any stains in the garage floor even if parked for a week or two and has consistent oil pressure.
I'll inspect the areas you mentioned and if everything is ok, as you say, run it

Thanks again all for the help

Regards
Old 12-09-2010, 01:10 PM
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Luis_M
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Default Euro-S Refresh

I'm nearly finished with this same project on my 81 Euro S. Some of the Euro specific parts are a challenge to find, including the wider Euro diameter intake runner boots and throttle boot. Make sure you get the right part numbers for the Euro S. I've been waiting over 3 months for them to dig up a few parts from their Germany warehouse...

This Euro-specific file will be invaluable to you if you don't already have it:
http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf...86_KATALOG.pdf

Luis
1981 Euro S 5sp
Old 12-09-2010, 01:26 PM
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txhokie4life
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Originally Posted by R.Pires
Hi,

Thanks for the answers. I knew the Dwayne document but as it applies to 32v cars I thought it was a lot different from the 16v cars.

Mrmerlin,
Thanks for the tips. I don't have any running issues, in fact the car is better than ever, I just thought a top end refresh could be part of maintenance “before” I have any issues!
Thanks for clarifying that difference between 16v and 32v cars.
In fact it doesn't consume any oil, don't leave any stains in the garage floor even if parked for a week or two and has consistent oil pressure.
I'll inspect the areas you mentioned and if everything is ok, as you say, run it

Thanks again all for the help

Regards
Sounds like you are in it for the experience more than the need :-)

Might be better to leave your car alone -- then volunteer to help a buddy
who really needs the top end done --- at least you'll earn a few beers,
be ready for when your car really needs it, and your garage will continue
to be leak free.

Something about -- "if it ain't broke don't fix it" & "Leave sleeping dogs lie"
comes to mind :-)

Mike
Old 12-09-2010, 01:49 PM
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IrishLegend
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I'm looking for the same info for my '85.
Thanks
Old 03-20-2011, 11:37 AM
  #10  
BeerFish
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Does anyone have a write-up like this, hopefully as great as Dwaynes procedure, but for the earlier models?

After tracking my '84 last year, I found that I am leaking coolant on top of the motor, below the intake. Except, I cant find the leak. Under pressure you can clearly see coolant rising on top of the motor down in the jounals, but I cant tell from where. Arrgh. I am not the most mechanically inclined, but I would like to take the intake out to see if I can find it, any suggestions on what/where it could be coming from? And hopefully, someone has a write-up for pre-86 refresh's?

Thanks in advance.
Old 03-20-2011, 01:14 PM
  #11  
fraggle
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Pull the airbox and look at the heater hoses, the connection to the head tends to corrode and leaks around the press fit part. The update is one piece. Yours mit be leaking around the water bridge though, which might be harder to get to.



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