89 S4 cam gear keyway
#1
89 S4 cam gear keyway
I would like someone who knows to give me the mechanics how to.
On my 89 S4 the cam gear keyway is about 5/16 inch
The key on the cam is about half that so that when I slide the gear on it can move up to 2 1/2 teeth from left to right.
The 3 small machine screws on the rotor bolt through 3/8" slots on the gear to the cam hub.
This means that I can place the gear anywhere within 2 1/2 teeth of where it should be.
What is the normal shop procedure?
all the way counter clock ways?
all the way clock ways?
or in the center?
I know Greg or Dr or someone who has done 30 - 100s of these would know
I know enough to catch it and other then me getting a deg. wheel (which I will for in the future) dose anyone have some advice.
Brad
On my 89 S4 the cam gear keyway is about 5/16 inch
The key on the cam is about half that so that when I slide the gear on it can move up to 2 1/2 teeth from left to right.
The 3 small machine screws on the rotor bolt through 3/8" slots on the gear to the cam hub.
This means that I can place the gear anywhere within 2 1/2 teeth of where it should be.
What is the normal shop procedure?
all the way counter clock ways?
all the way clock ways?
or in the center?
I know Greg or Dr or someone who has done 30 - 100s of these would know
I know enough to catch it and other then me getting a deg. wheel (which I will for in the future) dose anyone have some advice.
Brad
#2
Captain Obvious
Super User
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Joined: Aug 2003
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Likes: 340
From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Factory procedure is to use a dial indicatior on the cam and measure the lift. For this the valve covers has to come off or Ken sells a cam timing kid that can do the same and more but without removing the valve covers.
If you have the gam gear off, put it back where it was. Look for the "shadow" on the front and back of the gear.
If you have the gam gear off, put it back where it was. Look for the "shadow" on the front and back of the gear.
#3
By default I would star with them set to the middle, but then they will need to be degrees to get the best performance. The easiest way to get them degrees correctly is using Ken's 32v'r tool. (availably through 928srus, or I have one I could lend). The other option is by following the manual and using a degree wheel and dial indicator. You will need to remove both valve covers for this method though. Let me know if you'ld like to borrow mine. You can find details and instructions on the 32v'r on Ken's site. liftbars.com
Please forgive the typos I'm writing on my phone.
Please forgive the typos I'm writing on my phone.
#4
The sloted gear allows the cam timing to be set...there is no particular "correct" place. You can't set the gear without measuring the cam timing...don't try.
There is a proceedure to set the cam timing, in the workshop manual. This requires the removal of the valve covers. If you don't have the valve covers off, buy the tool that Porken invented, to set the gear to the proper position. While not exact, it is so stinking close to perfect that you will never know the difference.
Roger has them, or you can go to Ken's site (liftbars.com...or something close to that) and buy the tool....it's very clever.
There is a proceedure to set the cam timing, in the workshop manual. This requires the removal of the valve covers. If you don't have the valve covers off, buy the tool that Porken invented, to set the gear to the proper position. While not exact, it is so stinking close to perfect that you will never know the difference.
Roger has them, or you can go to Ken's site (liftbars.com...or something close to that) and buy the tool....it's very clever.
#5
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#8
The tool allows both verification, later, and changes, later.
Plus ability to help your colleagues, since you will understand it and have the tool.
Pretty much indispensible.
There actually was one made for the LH 16V Euros, too, that works along with the later cam gears.
Plus ability to help your colleagues, since you will understand it and have the tool.
Pretty much indispensible.
There actually was one made for the LH 16V Euros, too, that works along with the later cam gears.
#9
Brad........big projects and much to learn I see.
I have one of Kens cam timing tools that, if your interested in learning, I'd be prepared to demonstrate its use or lend it to you.
Then, as Chris mentions, you can pay it forward to the ever growing Alberta 928 club
I have one of Kens cam timing tools that, if your interested in learning, I'd be prepared to demonstrate its use or lend it to you.
Then, as Chris mentions, you can pay it forward to the ever growing Alberta 928 club
#10
Brad........big projects and much to learn I see.
I have one of Kens cam timing tools that, if your interested in learning, I'd be prepared to demonstrate its use or lend it to you.
Then, as Chris mentions, you can pay it forward to the ever growing Alberta 928 club
I have one of Kens cam timing tools that, if your interested in learning, I'd be prepared to demonstrate its use or lend it to you.
Then, as Chris mentions, you can pay it forward to the ever growing Alberta 928 club
Thanks Malcolm
I will never turn down this kind of an offer.
Do you have a video demonstrating it?
If so it would be great so that we can post it on the 928 OC tech tips area.
I am getting a few shipments from Roger and asked him to throw one in for me but I will let you know if I need to borrow it if I can not get one for some reason.
Thanks again everyone.
I really do appreciate it.
Brad
#11
No video Brad but there's detailed instructions on Kens website and this tech forum.
When you receive your cam timing tool let us know how you get on.
BTW.............are you taking the engine out?
#12
Yes I am removing the engine.
I want to refresh the engine bay,
as well as replace the wire harness, head gaskets and top end refresh,
Pk ten, tec-4 kit install, fuel lines, recheck the work I did last year.
rebuild the TT, Trans lines and any other hoses showing ware.
I would like to get the intake powder coated but have not sorced anyone in Edm out yet.
I want to refresh the engine bay,
as well as replace the wire harness, head gaskets and top end refresh,
Pk ten, tec-4 kit install, fuel lines, recheck the work I did last year.
rebuild the TT, Trans lines and any other hoses showing ware.
I would like to get the intake powder coated but have not sorced anyone in Edm out yet.
#13
Yes I am removing the engine.
I want to refresh the engine bay,
as well as replace the wire harness, head gaskets and top end refresh,
Pk ten, tec-4 kit install, fuel lines, recheck the work I did last year.
rebuild the TT, Trans lines and any other hoses showing ware.
I would like to get the intake powder coated but have not sorced anyone in Edm out yet.
I want to refresh the engine bay,
as well as replace the wire harness, head gaskets and top end refresh,
Pk ten, tec-4 kit install, fuel lines, recheck the work I did last year.
rebuild the TT, Trans lines and any other hoses showing ware.
I would like to get the intake powder coated but have not sorced anyone in Edm out yet.
#14
Yip its waiting for me
New lines and fuel rails on the way.
New Tec-4 kit (all new wire connectors for injectors/sensors come with it)
Lots more, fuel dampener, pump, rogers brake special, trans and diff service, and the list goes on.
Need to get it all done by march so that it will be ready for spring.
New lines and fuel rails on the way.
New Tec-4 kit (all new wire connectors for injectors/sensors come with it)
Lots more, fuel dampener, pump, rogers brake special, trans and diff service, and the list goes on.
Need to get it all done by march so that it will be ready for spring.
#15
I should have said Superbearings instead of just bearings.
Yip its waiting for me
New lines and fuel rails on the way.
New Tec-4 kit (all new wire connectors for injectors/sensors come with it)
Lots more, fuel dampener, pump, rogers brake special, trans and diff service, and the list goes on.
Need to get it all done by march so that it will be ready for spring.
New lines and fuel rails on the way.
New Tec-4 kit (all new wire connectors for injectors/sensors come with it)
Lots more, fuel dampener, pump, rogers brake special, trans and diff service, and the list goes on.
Need to get it all done by march so that it will be ready for spring.