Performance??????????s
11-28-2010, 05:50 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Performance??????????s
hello all, i have a few questions, i owned a couple 928's in the past, they were manuals and i always liked them, i am ready for another 928, a few questions
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
any advice would be aprreciaciated, my biggest concern is getting an auto and disliking it. i have a '08 997TT tip as well as a '06 CTT tip and I love them, these are the only 2 autos from Porsche that I have driven that I enjoy. I have owned 15 or so 911tt's, 930's, 928's and they have all been a manny
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
any advice would be aprreciaciated, my biggest concern is getting an auto and disliking it. i have a '08 997TT tip as well as a '06 CTT tip and I love them, these are the only 2 autos from Porsche that I have driven that I enjoy. I have owned 15 or so 911tt's, 930's, 928's and they have all been a manny
11-28-2010, 05:54 PM
#2
Rest in Peace
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Posts: 9,903
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
hello all, i have a few questions, i owned a couple 928's in the past, they were manuals and i always liked them, i am ready for another 928, a few questions
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
any advice would be aprreciaciated, my biggest concern is getting an auto and disliking it. i have a '08 997TT tip as well as a '06 CTT tip and I love them, these are the only 2 autos from Porsche that I have driven that I enjoy. I have owned 15 or so 911tt's, 930's, 928's and they have all been a manny
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
any advice would be aprreciaciated, my biggest concern is getting an auto and disliking it. i have a '08 997TT tip as well as a '06 CTT tip and I love them, these are the only 2 autos from Porsche that I have driven that I enjoy. I have owned 15 or so 911tt's, 930's, 928's and they have all been a manny
I think the early 87 are the best stock block, the squirter motor.
The best block as a starting point is a early "Thick block" motor from like a 85.
Every one is going to have thoughts on this, just like which is better, a twin screw, or what ever.
11-28-2010, 06:03 PM
#3
Race Director
hello all, i have a few questions, i owned a couple 928's in the past, they were manuals and i always liked them, i am ready for another 928, a few questions
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
any advice would be aprreciaciated, my biggest concern is getting an auto and disliking it. i have a '08 997TT tip as well as a '06 CTT tip and I love them, these are the only 2 autos from Porsche that I have driven that I enjoy. I have owned 15 or so 911tt's, 930's, 928's and they have all been a manny
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
any advice would be aprreciaciated, my biggest concern is getting an auto and disliking it. i have a '08 997TT tip as well as a '06 CTT tip and I love them, these are the only 2 autos from Porsche that I have driven that I enjoy. I have owned 15 or so 911tt's, 930's, 928's and they have all been a manny
to get mid 400's there are about 4 options for an S4
1: Murphys Stage III kit..up to 500whp or so pretty easy
2: 928 GT twin screw kit makes about 450whp
3: John Kuhn twin turbo..well over 500whp
3: Stroker...Doc Brown...his 6.4L engines are pricey, but proven..the fastest race 928's both run his engines
11-28-2010, 06:12 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
15 K to bring home an automatic or manual S4 worthy of the cause.
8K for others to do the maintenance backlogged, including new gen water pump.
10K for the boost kit and all ancilliary installation, dyno, tweaking.
33K.
8K for others to do the maintenance backlogged, including new gen water pump.
10K for the boost kit and all ancilliary installation, dyno, tweaking.
33K.
11-28-2010, 06:14 PM
#6
Race Director
www.928gt.com
http://www.kuhnperformance.com/
http://www.murf928.com/
http://www.precisionmtrwerks.com/
Trending Topics
11-28-2010, 07:28 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
hello all, i have a few questions, i owned a couple 928's in the past, they were manuals and i always liked them, i am ready for another 928, a few questions
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
1) how much to do a SC kit that these cars will see mid 400+ to the wheels safely
2) how does the auto compare to the manny, i had a couple mannys and i liked them, i have never driven a 928 auto
3) any year that is best for the SC install, I am not at all against an older 928 since the older they are the lighter they are, I like more nimble than heavy cars
Having owned both an AT and 5 spd, I have no interest in another AT, with the exception that a big bump in power might make the AT a more tractable practical option and still be fun. Stock I think the AT is boring.
As soon as you get past about 7 psi of boost I think the knock detection of the S4 becomes essential, otherwise an 85/86 would be fine.
Its not a continuous older gets lighter, its around 200 lbs gained in 87+, and the rest of year to year differences are pretty much related to options like seats and sun roof.
11-28-2010, 07:34 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I'd go turbo if money isn't the issue. Kuhn's set up is very clean too, and he has been driving his for a few years now with no issues I've heard of.
11-28-2010, 08:18 PM
#12
Race Director
Look at how Tuomo runs his....the boost increases with RPM to offset the restricted breathing (dropping VE) at higher RPM.....which is why he gets such a monster dyno #
11-28-2010, 11:36 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
If you are looking for mid-400's with boost without working the motor too hard, I think you are going to need at least a 5L motor. (M.Y.'85-'95)
The following may be more conducive to forced induction:
'87 and later have knock sensors.
Early '87 has oil squirters that spray the piston skirts.
'89 and later have heads with thicker castings around the head bolts.
If you are going to go through the expense of boosting a car, you should make sure that you can live with an A/T before committing that kind of money to it. I'm a big fan of the A/T, but there are definitely those out there that simply won't ever be happy with it. Something about not giving them the same thrill as they're out picking up their viagra prescriptions.
The following may be more conducive to forced induction:
'87 and later have knock sensors.
Early '87 has oil squirters that spray the piston skirts.
'89 and later have heads with thicker castings around the head bolts.
If you are going to go through the expense of boosting a car, you should make sure that you can live with an A/T before committing that kind of money to it. I'm a big fan of the A/T, but there are definitely those out there that simply won't ever be happy with it. Something about not giving them the same thrill as they're out picking up their viagra prescriptions.
11-29-2010, 09:47 AM
#15
I'll probably be accused of making broad statements, once again. But I will pass on the following.
The principal requirement to produce power in the internal combustion engine is a precise mixture of clean air and fuel. An engine's horsepower and torque output is directly proportional to the rate at which this mixture enters the combustion chamber. In other words, the density (or weight ) of the charge produces power, regardless of pressure, an engine responds to density.
Therefore the more mixture that can be crammed into the cylinders, the greater the potential horsepower output will be.
A normally aspirated engine relies on atmospheric pressure (at sea level = 14.7 psi. [pounds per square inch] or 1 bar) to push the inlet charge into the negative pressure (vacuum) area within the cylinders. Boost is the amount of additional pressure created by the supercharger. So if the supercharger makes 6 psi boost, the inlet charge is atmospheric pressure plus 6 psi for a total of 20.7psi.
An engine must have the ideal air / fuel ratio to produce maximum power.
Again every engine is different, but generally the best power is produced at around 12 - 12.5 : 1. Additional fuel does not usually control detonation nor produce more power. One of the best methods of controlling detonation is octane.
Nuff Said, For Now.
The principal requirement to produce power in the internal combustion engine is a precise mixture of clean air and fuel. An engine's horsepower and torque output is directly proportional to the rate at which this mixture enters the combustion chamber. In other words, the density (or weight ) of the charge produces power, regardless of pressure, an engine responds to density.
Therefore the more mixture that can be crammed into the cylinders, the greater the potential horsepower output will be.
A normally aspirated engine relies on atmospheric pressure (at sea level = 14.7 psi. [pounds per square inch] or 1 bar) to push the inlet charge into the negative pressure (vacuum) area within the cylinders. Boost is the amount of additional pressure created by the supercharger. So if the supercharger makes 6 psi boost, the inlet charge is atmospheric pressure plus 6 psi for a total of 20.7psi.
An engine must have the ideal air / fuel ratio to produce maximum power.
Again every engine is different, but generally the best power is produced at around 12 - 12.5 : 1. Additional fuel does not usually control detonation nor produce more power. One of the best methods of controlling detonation is octane.
Nuff Said, For Now.